- Model Number
- SAV
- Brand
- Maytag
- Age
- 6-10 years
Nine times out of ten the cause of this problem is a leaking tub seal, but it’s also possible that something simple is the cause of the leak; a cracked plastic outer drum, or maybe the pressure line tube has come off, so check for the obvious before you tear everything apart.
Changing the tub seal is a major repair job, requiring some special tools, so you many find it a good idea to go by the Repair Manual if you plan on doing this repair yourself, although the instructions that come with the tub seal replacement repair-kit are very good (see comments below). Note that this repair manual is titled AMANA, but this model Maytag is made by Amana, thus the AMANA title.
www.applianceblog.com/manuals/amanawasher.pdf
If you are mechanically inclined (read that as experienced in the world of disassembly and assembly of major mechanical devices/equipment) you should be able to follow the instructions that come with the Tub Seal Replacement Kit and perform this job surprisingly easy and economically (see my special tool workarounds below).
There is a 10 page Technical Bulletin with very detail information about what causes this problem along with detailed replacement procedures for the seal kit (many pictures and diagrams). This Bulletin also has diagrams of those special tools and their respective part numbers. This Technical Bulletin is available at the site listed below (as of July 2007), very good read before you perform this repair… to help you determine if you should attempt this repair.
I'm attaching the Technical Bulletin below.
The new tub seal (triple lip seal) has been revised many times from the original early manufactured part and the newest revised part will come in the repair-kit (new hub, seals, O-ring, bolts, and a few other parts). The required grease is not in the kit. Anyway, with the proper tools… this job can be performed in about an hour, or so they say. However, the typical home repair person will require several hours, not counting the trip to the parts store. The Tub seal and bearing kit cost about $ 70 in July 2007.
Here is some more info on the Seal Kit:
Tub Seal and Bearing Kit W10219156
Many people purchased this washer for less then $500, so please note that a service call (labor and parts) will likely cost about $400 to $500 to make this repair. However, this washer (and the Maytag brand in general) has developed somewhat of a poor reliability history, so one may question the wisdom of investing a large sum of money in any repair of this Washing Machine, but rather use the money to buy a better, more reliable brand. Many feel that the Whirlpool and Sears Kenmore brands are a better choice.
Anway, in order to do this job properly, with a minim amount of damage to the knuckles and the washing machine, you will need some specialty tools that many “Shade-Tree Mechanics” may not have in their tool collection.
You'll need a special spanner wrench w/special tool disk for the Seal Nut Spanner Wrench 22038313
You'll need a second spanner wrench for the Basket Hub Spanner Wrench 35-2968
You'll need a revised brake/bearing removal tool Brake - Bearing - Seal Removal Tool 12002012
You’ll need a drilled out PVC end, for the brake/bearing tool.
Here are a few workarounds that you might find useful.....
REMOVAL/INSTALL the SEAL NUT:
Using some 12” channel locks, I was able to remove the Seal Nut, it was on their very tight (note the trick in the Tech Bulletin with the Visegrips). This removal did crush several of the side vanes, but you get a replacement Seal in the repair kit. I then purchased the special seal tool for $5 for the Seal Nut (it’s a flat plastic disk with four holes). I did not purchase the spanner wrench (over $100 ). When it came time to install the Seal Nut I used this plastic seal tool disk; I took four 3” bolts with two washers on each bolt (to sandwich the seal tool disk, yet not cover the open slots) and a nut to firmly secure the bolts in each hole. Then using two long, good size screwdrivers as levers, I was able to firmly secure (not near as hard as the removal) the Seal Nut without damaging any of the Seal Nut’s vanes . Again a firm torque on install, but do not over tighten.
REMOVAL/INSTALL the WASHTUB HUB:
Using the same 12” channel locks and a hammer to bang on the channel lock’s arms, I was able to remove the Washtub Hub, it was also on their very tight (note the trick in the Tech Bulletin with the Visegrips). This removal did not damage any of the aluminum pins/arms on the Hub, but you get a replacement Hub in the repair kit. Installed in the same manner, being careful not to damage or over tighten the new Washtub Hub.
REMOVAL/INSTALL the main SEAL BEARING:
In my case the old Seal Bearing came out very easily. To install the new Seal Bearing, I used a PVC pluming part (3” to 1½” PVC adapter) from Home Depot (less the $4), a 10” long bolt or all-thread, some washers and nuts, a little mechanical experience at fabricating this Bearing press, and was able to easily install the new Seal Bearing, using some 3M 800 Sealant.
REMOVAL/INSTALL the O-Ring:
It is very easy to overlook this o-ring, it’s on the long shaft that’s sticking up in the center of the Tub (after you have removed the agitator), about half way up the shaft.
Note: before you take the tub apart, note how easy the tub turns by hand… in one direction the agitator will agitate, note this action and how difficult it is to turn the tub. In the other direction, the tub will turn fairly easily... again note how easy it turns. If per chance you over tighten or incorrectly install the seals you’ll have too much tension on the seal creating excess drag or friction. Having tested before you disassemble can help to judge this issue when you reassemble the washer. If you over tighten the Basket Hub and/or Seal Nut, the drive belt and motor will tend to over heat and give off a burnt rubber smell. Also, be sure to confirm that the lower bearing which is located in the Milk Stool (transmission assembly) has not been damaged from the water leak.
Take special note: when you take-off the tub springs.... especially the rear center spring. This center spring is the counter balance spring, it is required to counter-balance the added weight of the drive motor (the motor is mounted in front, underneath) Take special note of exactly how this counter balance spring is attached at the rear of the washer..... the spring is connected at the top to a finger slot (take special note of the spring’s position and orientation. This spring is very difficult to reattach, but it basically slips into this finger slot from the back side. You must first make sure the spring is hooked into the base (frame), then slide it up the back of the support and into the finger loop bracket. Tilting the tub down and toward the spring will be a big help. This may take a few attempts to get it properly hocked, the way it was originally… but it's important to get this counter balance spring connected properly. As for the grease; the lower seal calls for basic Petroleum Jelly (pack it in good and thick). For the upper seal, the named grease in the instructions was not available, talking with some techs, I decided to use some white Lithium Bearing grease, we'll see over time if that was a good decision . The 3M Industrial Sealant is hard to find and when you do, it will be expensive, but read the instructions you may not need it. One more comment: I did not find any reverse threads, everything comes off in the standard counter clock-wise direction.
Changing the tub seal is a major repair job, requiring some special tools, so you many find it a good idea to go by the Repair Manual if you plan on doing this repair yourself, although the instructions that come with the tub seal replacement repair-kit are very good (see comments below). Note that this repair manual is titled AMANA, but this model Maytag is made by Amana, thus the AMANA title.
www.applianceblog.com/manuals/amanawasher.pdf
If you are mechanically inclined (read that as experienced in the world of disassembly and assembly of major mechanical devices/equipment) you should be able to follow the instructions that come with the Tub Seal Replacement Kit and perform this job surprisingly easy and economically (see my special
tool workarounds below).There is a 10 page Technical Bulletin with very detail information about what causes this problem along with detailed replacement procedures for the seal kit (many pictures and diagrams). This Bulletin also has diagrams of those special tools and their respective part numbers. This Technical Bulletin is available at the site listed below (as of July 2007), very good read before you perform this repair… to help you determine if you should attempt this repair.
I'm attaching the Technical Bulletin below.
The new tub seal (triple lip seal) has been revised many times from the original early manufactured part and the newest revised part will come in the repair-kit (new hub, seals, O-ring, bolts, and a few other parts). The required grease is not in the kit. Anyway, with the proper tools… this job can be performed in about an hour, or so they say. However, the typical home repair person will require several hours, not counting the trip to the parts store. The Tub seal and bearing kit cost about $ 70 in July 2007.
Here is some more info on the Seal Kit:
Tub Seal and Bearing Kit W10219156
Many people purchased this washer for less then $500, so please note that a service call (labor and parts) will likely cost about $400 to $500 to make this repair. However, this washer (and the Maytag brand in general) has developed somewhat of a poor reliability history, so one may question the wisdom of investing a large sum of money in any repair of this Washing Machine, but rather use the money to buy a better, more reliable brand. Many feel that the Whirlpool and Sears Kenmore brands are a better choice.
Anway, in order to do this job properly, with a minim amount of damage to the knuckles and the washing machine, you will need some specialty tools that many “Shade-Tree Mechanics” may not have in their tool collection.
You'll need a special spanner wrench w/special tool disk for the Seal Nut Spanner Wrench 22038313
You'll need a second spanner wrench for the Basket Hub Spanner Wrench 35-2968
You'll need a revised brake/bearing removal tool Brake - Bearing - Seal Removal Tool 12002012
You’ll need a drilled out PVC end, for the brake/bearing tool.
Here are a few workarounds that you might find useful.....
REMOVAL/INSTALL the SEAL NUT:
Using some 12” channel locks, I was able to remove the Seal Nut, it was on their very tight
(note the trick in the Tech Bulletin with the Visegrips). This removal did crush several of the side vanes, but you get a replacement Seal in the repair kit. I then purchased the special seal tool for $5 for the Seal Nut (it’s a flat plastic disk with four holes). I did not purchase the spanner wrench (over $100 ). When it came time to install the Seal Nut I used this plastic seal tool disk; I took four 3” bolts with two washers on each bolt (to sandwich the seal tool disk, yet not cover the open slots) and a nut to firmly secure the bolts in each hole. Then using two long, good size screwdrivers as levers, I was able to firmly secure (not near as hard as the removal) the Seal Nut without damaging any of the Seal Nut’s vanes . Again a firm torque on install, but do not over tighten.REMOVAL/INSTALL the WASHTUB HUB:
Using the same 12” channel locks and a hammer to bang on the channel lock’s arms, I was able to remove the Washtub Hub, it was also on their very tight
(note the trick in the Tech Bulletin with the Visegrips). This removal did not damage any of the aluminum pins/arms on the Hub, but you get a replacement Hub in the repair kit. Installed in the same manner, being careful not to damage or over tighten the new Washtub Hub.REMOVAL/INSTALL the main SEAL BEARING:
In my case the old Seal Bearing came out very easily. To install the new Seal Bearing, I used a PVC pluming part (3” to 1½” PVC adapter) from Home Depot (less the $4), a 10” long bolt or all-thread, some washers and nuts, a little mechanical experience at fabricating this Bearing press, and was able to easily install the new Seal Bearing, using some 3M 800 Sealant.
REMOVAL/INSTALL the O-Ring:
It is very easy to overlook this o-ring, it’s on the long shaft that’s sticking up in the center of the Tub (after you have removed the agitator), about half way up the shaft.
Note: before you take the tub apart, note how easy the tub turns by hand… in one direction the agitator will agitate, note this action and how difficult it is to turn the tub. In the other direction, the tub will turn fairly easily... again note how easy it turns. If per chance you over tighten or incorrectly install the seals you’ll have too much tension on the seal creating excess drag or friction. Having tested before you disassemble can help to judge this issue when you reassemble the washer. If you over tighten the Basket Hub and/or Seal Nut, the drive belt and motor will tend to over heat and give off a burnt rubber smell. Also, be sure to confirm that the lower bearing which is located in the Milk Stool (transmission assembly) has not been damaged from the water leak.
Take special note: when you take-off the tub springs.... especially the rear center spring. This center spring is the counter balance spring, it is required to counter-balance the added weight of the drive motor (the motor is mounted in front, underneath) Take special note of exactly how this counter balance spring is attached at the rear of the washer..... the spring is connected at the top to a finger slot (take special note of the spring’s position and orientation. This spring is very difficult to reattach, but it basically slips into this finger slot from the back side. You must first make sure the spring is hooked into the base (frame), then slide it up the back of the support and into the finger loop bracket. Tilting the tub down and toward the spring will be a big help. This may take a few attempts to get it properly hocked, the way it was originally… but it's important to get this counter balance spring connected properly. As for the grease; the lower seal calls for basic Petroleum Jelly (pack it in good and thick). For the upper seal, the named grease in the instructions was not available, talking with some techs, I decided to use some white Lithium Bearing grease, we'll see over time if that was a good decision
. The 3M Industrial Sealant is hard to find and when you do, it will be expensive, but read the instructions you may not need it. One more comment: I did not find any reverse threads, everything comes off in the standard counter clock-wise direction.
