Honestsam
Premium Member
- Model Number
- LAT8226AAM
- Brand
- Maytag
- Age
- More than 10 years
This is a typical 2 belt, motor on left, single speed, drian pump on right model from 1993 based on SN. This is long, I've been at this a while, sorry. I'll bullet point this as best I can.
Tub didn't drain, drain pump impeller didn't spin with pulley, replaced pump, also replaced belts.
Tub didn't drain. The motor 'clicks' off with a hot electrical smell about 5 seconds into spin.
Installed new motor, same thing. Spins 5 seconds, clicks off, hot smell. Timer continues to tick away. Thermal switch will reset when cool, just repeats.
There is no obstruction in drain hose or pump. It will pump water also for those few seconds.
There is no obstruction between tubs.
The drive pulley turns easily CW, the brake releases and turns well CCW.
I can turn the tranny with my hands.
I pulled off the pulley and brake unit to replace the pulley and radial/brake bearings. They looked good, I repacked them and reinstalled them.
This is my moms' washer, she called the professional serviceman.
He checked all I had done, tested the lid switch which tested fine. He recommended the tub bearing which had "a little play in it" be replaced.
The washer did have a high pitch squeal in the spin cycle for a short period a month or so ago.
I replaced the tub seal and bearing, they did not look bad. Motor still shuts off going into spin cycle.
The motor runs fine with no belts.
The motor runs with drain pump belt only.
The motor overheats with the drive belt only on.
The tranny did turn more easily when I had the brake assembly off the washer. I assume that it is normal to have some resistance when the brake is installed.
The serviceman felt the resistance present is the normal resistance.
The tranny turns fine, there is no indication of it failing.
Last thought, a retired local repairman I spoke with on the phone suggested that maybe the motor isn't shutting down in CW direction during the spin cycle and it's being told to do both.
I can hook up my jumper wires I made when I bench tested the motor, but the motor already runs fine with no belts on.
Any thoughts??
Tub didn't drain, drain pump impeller didn't spin with pulley, replaced pump, also replaced belts.
Tub didn't drain. The motor 'clicks' off with a hot electrical smell about 5 seconds into spin.
Installed new motor, same thing. Spins 5 seconds, clicks off, hot smell. Timer continues to tick away. Thermal switch will reset when cool, just repeats.
There is no obstruction in drain hose or pump. It will pump water also for those few seconds.
There is no obstruction between tubs.
The drive pulley turns easily CW, the brake releases and turns well CCW.
I can turn the tranny with my hands.
I pulled off the pulley and brake unit to replace the pulley and radial/brake bearings. They looked good, I repacked them and reinstalled them.
This is my moms' washer, she called the professional serviceman.
He checked all I had done, tested the lid switch which tested fine. He recommended the tub bearing which had "a little play in it" be replaced.
The washer did have a high pitch squeal in the spin cycle for a short period a month or so ago.
I replaced the tub seal and bearing, they did not look bad. Motor still shuts off going into spin cycle.
The motor runs fine with no belts.
The motor runs with drain pump belt only.
The motor overheats with the drive belt only on.
The tranny did turn more easily when I had the brake assembly off the washer. I assume that it is normal to have some resistance when the brake is installed.
The serviceman felt the resistance present is the normal resistance.
The tranny turns fine, there is no indication of it failing.
Last thought, a retired local repairman I spoke with on the phone suggested that maybe the motor isn't shutting down in CW direction during the spin cycle and it's being told to do both.
I can hook up my jumper wires I made when I bench tested the motor, but the motor already runs fine with no belts on.
Any thoughts??