Maytag Washer -LAT8226AAM 1993?, motor overheats when spin cycle is started

[Honestsam]

Model Number

LAT8226AAM

Brand

Maytag

Age

More than 10 years

This is a typical 2 belt, motor on left, single speed, drian pump on right model from 1993 based on SN. This is long, I've been at this a while, sorry. I'll bullet point this as best I can.

Tub didn't drain, drain pump impeller didn't spin with pulley, replaced pump, also replaced belts.
Tub didn't drain. The motor 'clicks' off with a hot electrical smell about 5 seconds into spin.
Installed new motor, same thing. Spins 5 seconds, clicks off, hot smell. Timer continues to tick away. Thermal switch will reset when cool, just repeats.
There is no obstruction in drain hose or pump. It will pump water also for those few seconds.
There is no obstruction between tubs.
The drive pulley turns easily CW, the brake releases and turns well CCW.
I can turn the tranny with my hands.
I pulled off the pulley and brake unit to replace the pulley and radial/brake bearings. They looked good, I repacked them and reinstalled them.
This is my moms' washer, she called the professional serviceman.
He checked all I had done, tested the lid switch which tested fine. He recommended the tub bearing which had "a little play in it" be replaced.
The washer did have a high pitch squeal in the spin cycle for a short period a month or so ago.
I replaced the tub seal and bearing, they did not look bad. Motor still shuts off going into spin cycle.
The motor runs fine with no belts.
The motor runs with drain pump belt only.
The motor overheats with the drive belt only on.

The tranny did turn more easily when I had the brake assembly off the washer. I assume that it is normal to have some resistance when the brake is installed.
The serviceman felt the resistance present is the normal resistance.
The tranny turns fine, there is no indication of it failing.
Last thought, a retired local repairman I spoke with on the phone suggested that maybe the motor isn't shutting down in CW direction during the spin cycle and it's being told to do both.
I can hook up my jumper wires I made when I bench tested the motor, but the motor already runs fine with no belts on.

Any thoughts??

 

[Jake]

The motor mount, does the motor mount move freely?

Here's the motor mount assembly for your model.
Motor Mount Spring Kit 205000


Look at this thread:

FIXED - LAT3500AAE Maytag Washer - Hot motor smell and errrnnn sound

I wonder if it could be the upper spin bearing. It #1 in this diagram: This area is about the only place I have not been. What am I going to need to do to get there and what else should I replace as I get that deep? Like snubber pads? Or do I come from the bottom

www.applianceblog.com

I replaced the new springs that came in the glide mount kit with the old, original springs. Problem is eliminated!
The washer has been working great. It has completed about eight extra large loads. The brake is no longer slipping in agitation.
So whatever caused the original problem, continued with the stiffer springs in the new glide mount kit. The glide kit did not need to be replaced. The belts did not need to be replaced. Replacing the original hoses probably could have been avoided, but they were originals and the added length has proven to be a great benefit. The whole project cost me $200.
I could not have completed this project without the assistance from Rick and Jeff. Their guidance made this endeavor much easier. I cannot thank you guys enough!!

Nick

Jake

 

[Honestsam]

The mount slides easily. It slides in each time I attach the drive belt, and it slides back when the belt is removed. It is the original springs and slides. I didn’t replace them with the new motor.
That thread was interesting though, I will check the contacts more closely also just in case.

 

[Jake]

Ok, then it has to be the brake.

Here's the brake assembly for your model:
WP6-2011900 Brake Assembly


Watch the video in that part link and he shows you how to set it just right when he puts the new brake package on.

It's in-stock here:

Brake Assembly - WP6-2011900 | Fast Shipping - Repair Clinic

Buy Brake Assembly, Part #WP6-2011900 with fast shipping! Our 365-day return policy guarantees you'll always get the right part!

www.anrdoezrs.net

Look at this thread:

FIXED - A412 Maytag Washer won't spin.

Yesterday, I replaced the transmission on my old Maytag A-412 washer, because it hadn't been agitating. After I completed the repair, the machine agitates properly, but won't spin. Instead, the drive pulley locks up and the belt just burns. A couple of times, after I stopped and started the...

www.applianceblog.com

Jake

 

[Honestsam]

Thank you. This morning I bypassed the timer and ran the motor with a homemade test cord. The motor ran fine at first, then after some “normal” use with water in the tub it kicked the circuit breaker. Odd that the thermal relay didn’t trip.
I have a brake assembly on order, I read putting 2 capfuls of ATF in the brake assembly might break it free. Any thoughts on that?

 

[Jake]

I read putting 2 capfuls of ATF in the brake assembly might break it free. Any thoughts on that?

That's news to me. LOL, I've never heard of that before. I don't see any harm in trying it.

Jake

 

[Honestsam]

The 2 capfuls of ATF came from a thread by rickgburton on this blog. I would have tried it but my part was delivered.

Anyway, today I started with a homemade test cord, providing power directly to the motor. It is wired to the blue, red, yellow and black wires that go to the motor/terminals, the white wire was not used. The test cord is plugged directly to the wall outlet. Initially, the motor ran without shutting down, it spun, and I switched the wires so the motor would change direction and it agitated. I filled the tub with water and then let it agitate for 10 min, the motor felt warm/hot but didn't shut down. I unplugged the test cord for 1 min, then tried it again and on startup it tripped the circuit breaker (non GCFI). I tried the spin cycle configuration and it tripped the breaker again. I put a fan on the motor to cool down. So I assume the motor is not the problem, or is it?

Next, I replaced the brake assembly and the radial and pulley bearings even though they did not look bad. I could tell right away the new brake assembly spring is stiffer and the transmission was harder to turn by hand. I reconnected everything back the way it should be and the same thing. Only the motor shut down even sooner with the new brake. I can hear the thermal switch click and the smell of hot electrical. I put the old brake assembly on with the new bearings and back to the typical run 5 seconds and thermal switch/motor shut down.

Also when playing with the brake it seems to turn and release as it should based on other threads description and videos. I am at a loss. The transmission behaves the way it should from what I can tell. Something seems to be creating a drag or resistance.

My next thought is to put the old motor back on with all the new bearings in place and see what happens.

Any other thoughts? What could be left?

 

[Jake]

Yes, put the old motor back in place, and don't use the GFCI outlet, plug the washer into a regular outlet.

Jake

 

[Honestsam]

Old motor in, same thing. I have also baffled 1 service man who came to the house and 2 local retired servicemen who helped me over the phone.
Both motors share similar ohm readings when tested. Also the service man agreed belt tension is good.
It’s a mystery, I have found a 1999 Whirlpool on semipermanent loan from a friend. I am putting the Maytag in the corner for now.
My mom suggests I should send it to the Appliance Repair School as a final exam test.
Thanks for your help anyway.