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FIXED Maytag Washer MVW7230HW0 making high pitched sound now F7E9 and F7EA

CaveGimp

Premium Member
Joined
Aug 1, 2022
Messages
7
Location
Queen Creek, AZ
Model Number
MVW7230HW0
Brand
Maytag
Age
1-5 years
My wife called me in because she noticed the washer making a high pitched sound while spinning. Once the load was done I started looking into the machine. The basket spins freely and the agitator can spin separately from the basket. It initially had an error code of F7E3 or F7E4. I first tipped the machine back to verify the the screw on the rotor was tight, which it was. I then went to test the drive system (Test #3) and after running the agitator test F7E9 and F7EA popped up, same when I tried to run the Spin Low Speed test (I cleared codes between tests). Since there was a weird noise when spinning and F7E9 popped up I tried to remove the agitator but the bolt is stuck tight. I sprayed some Free All last night and it is still stuck this morning.

2 questions
1. How do I get the bolt to break loose, besides getting the torch out (its all plastic and a log way down that tube)
2. What else should I be checking, is it worth removing the rotor, clutch, stator to look for damage?

Thank you
 

CaveGimp

Premium Member
Joined
Aug 1, 2022
Messages
7
Location
Queen Creek, AZ
Update, so after about half a can of Free All, taking a long metal rod to the top of the bolt and hitting it with a hammer (a few strikes at each point) and my impact driver I was able to get the bolt free. I found a ton of hair/fur below the agitator plate and on the splines of the drive assembly. I cleaned all of that out, put it back together and ran the diag tests. I still had the F7EA code but now I was getting a F6E3. I followed the steps for F6E3 and all voltages were good on the main control. I then went to Test #3b Drive System - Motor, which maybe I should have done when I first saw F7E9. On checking J3 I had 8.9ohms between pins 1-3 but open between pins 1-2. Tilted the machine back, tested at the motor connector and same open, so I then removed the motor. Directly on the motor still an open on one leg. Upon inspection I noticed a broken coil wire on the motor.

Next question for you awesome repair techs, can I solder the wire back together and still be good or do I need to buy a new motor?
 

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Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
132,461
Location
Redmond, Oregon
Next question for you awesome repair techs, can I solder the wire back together and still be good or do I need to buy a new motor?
You'd need to get the new stator motor.

Here's the stator motor for your model: Stator W11195971

Let us know how it goes.

Jake
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
132,461
Location
Redmond, Oregon
Yes, I know what you mean. But doing it yourself already saves you a ton of money from having a appliance tech. do it for you, a appliance tech. would charge you a trip fee and labor fee on top of the price of the stator motor, so you'd be saving like $300 doing it yourself.

Jake
 

CaveGimp

Premium Member
Joined
Aug 1, 2022
Messages
7
Location
Queen Creek, AZ
Well the worst part is I caused the damage to the stator when checking the motor bolt. I stuck a screwdriver through the cover to hold it while I tightened and that is what broke the winding. There are other witness marks from y screwdriver.

I hear you on doing it myself. I'm an engineer so I'm naturally cheap and actually enjoy fixing things. The downside is I may have the theoretical knowledge, but I don't have the same practical knowledge that an experienced appliance tech has. Thank you again for the responses and filling in my gaps. :)
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
132,461
Location
Redmond, Oregon
Your welcome!

Jake
 

CaveGimp

Premium Member
Joined
Aug 1, 2022
Messages
7
Location
Queen Creek, AZ
So I'm back with the same washer down again. I was getting error code F7E4, and at times F6E3. I pulled another coin out from between the agitator and basket, not sure how one got there so quickly. Same issue, checked for 120V on J15 pines 1 and 4 and got nothing. It was sort of weird because at times the shifter would work and I would think I fixed it, then it would have F7E4 again. I tilted the machine back and removed the stator and clutch and found my issue. The metal ring on the slider, W10734521 was sheared off from the plastic gear. It was still a tight fit which would explain why things worked sometimes. New part on order and the washer will be back up and running in a few days.

My question is what would cause the metal ring to shear all of the plastic pegs on the gear? Could the issue be due to either all the hair and crud I had below the agitator or the various coins that seem to always get stuck?

Second question, since I have this thing opened up are there other parts I should replace for preventive maintenance? My wife is pretty annoyed with the machine so if I can throw in another part now that tends to wear quickly that would be awesome.

P.S. Huge thanks to this page and all of the folks who post and help out. You guys rock.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
132,461
Location
Redmond, Oregon
Thanks!

Here's the Shift Actuator(also called Slider) for your model:
Shift Actuator W10734521


Those are good questions, but I don't know the answers, its like asking how the stator coil broke, I really don't know, sorry. I've never run into either of these issues on this model before. I replaced a few drain pumps on this model, but that's all.

Hopefully another tech that's run into these issues can shed some light on it for us.

Jake
 
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