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Maytag Washer MVWC565FW0 Clicking At End of Spin Cycles

Redemption

Premium Member
Joined
Mar 31, 2023
Messages
8
Location
Houston, TX
Model Number
MVWC565FW0
Brand
Maytag
Age
6-10 years
Good morning, Dealing with the above referenced model, prepping for resale. Obtained at a charity event. What I've done so far: Initial errors were F5, E1 and F5, E3. Both have proved inconsequential. The lid lock works every time and has produced no new errors. The machine goes through its paces in both diagnostic modes and in its normal mode. The rub is that at the end of spin in both agitate and rinse cycles as the basket is coasting to a stop there is a pronounced clicking that appears to be coming from the splutch assembly.

It sounds as if the drive motor becomes re-energized for a few seconds at the end of the coasting motion. Indeed, I got a voltage reading between J2-4 and J2-5 pinouts of 117 VAC at the moment of the clicking. Is this normal for this machine? Does it apply some reverse polarity to stop the machine? The unit does not produce these clickings in either diagnostic mode. I have disassembled the splutch and have found no evidence of damage. As always, thanks for any input you can provide. Sincerely, Redemption
 
Last edited:
Good Afternoon,

Here's the tech. data sheet: https://drive.google.com/file/d/13EInFAAf99HeIgo6JNhYxCuG3RSqZdZG/view?usp=share_link

Page 15. Keep going of what it says to do.

8. With a voltmeter set to AC, connect black probe to J2-4 (L1), red probe to J2-5 (CCW Winding).
If 120VAC is cycling ON during CCW rotation, go to step 9.

9. Unplug washer or disconnect power.
10. Remove connector J2 from main control.
With an ohmmeter, check resistance of motor windings across the following J2 connector pinouts:
NOTE: If the console has a cycle selector knob and 4 rotary switches, the motor size is 1/3 HP
 
Thank you Jake for the timely reply! I will continue with my troubleshooting and report back, but curious to me it seems to be isolated in normal mode. Motor does not try to re-energize in either auto diagnostic or manual diagnostic modes. Sincerely, Redemption
 
Good Morning Jake, So I've just about reached a conclusion that this is some sort of a faulty electronic control. Here are my findings using the manual test mode: Test #3b, Steps 7 & 8: I have 121 VAC in both CW & CCW windings, Step 9: CW winding ohms at 5.2 and the CCW at 5.1, per manual skipped to Step 15: run cap measures at 48.8 mfd. Leads to Step 16 indicating faulty control. I backed up to Test #3a: splutch cam moving freely, Step 7: shifter ohms at 2.56: Step 8, energizes at J2-1 & J2-2 @ 123 VAC for both spin & agitate directions. Step 9: Shifter switch 5 VDC spin, 0 VDC for agitate at J12-4 & J12-3, Optical switch 10.7 VDC J12-4 & J12-1 (slightly under the 12 VDC called for), Tach verified. Skipped to step 17 indicating faulty control.

So I baby sat this morning's test load using normal wash. At the tail end of final spin as it is coasting to a stop the CCW energizes at 117 VAC before it has come to a complete standstill. That's when the clicking starts. If I'm understanding the manual correctly spin is to be clockwise. So the motor energizes CCW early before the splutch has been set for CCW running and that's where the noise is coming from. It has been my understanding with these Whirlpool VM washers that they don't move to the next step until they have come to a complete stop. Am I correct in that? So do you agree with my conclusion? Have you seen this before?

If my diagnosis is accurate this will be the second one of these microprocessor controlled units in the last few weeks where everything seems to be normal except for one circuit. These controls are expensive so it doesn't make it cost effective to repair and resell or to sell it honestly. Any other thoughts on this issue? Something you think I missed? As always thank you for your kind attention in this matter. Sincerely, Redemption.
 
Test #3b, Steps 7 & 8: I have 121 VAC in both CW & CCW windings, Step 9: CW winding ohms at 5.2 and the CCW at 5.1, per manual skipped to Step 15: run cap measures at 48.8 mfd. Leads to Step 16 indicating faulty control. I backed up to Test #3a: splutch cam moving freely, Step 7: shifter ohms at 2.56: Step 8, energizes at J2-1 & J2-2 @ 123 VAC for both spin & agitate directions. Step 9: Shifter switch 5 VDC spin, 0 VDC for agitate at J12-4 & J12-3, Optical switch 10.7 VDC J12-4 & J12-1 (slightly under the 12 VDC called for), Tach verified. Skipped to step 17 indicating faulty control.
Yes, you are absolutely correct, bad control board

Here's the Control Board for your model: Cntrl-Elec W11116594

If my diagnosis is accurate this will be the second one of these microprocessor controlled units in the last few weeks where everything seems to be normal except for one circuit. These controls are expensive so it doesn't make it cost effective to repair and resell or to sell it honestly. Any other thoughts on this issue?
Nope, you nailed it!
 
Morning Jake, Thank you for your response and guidance. Such a shame these things fail like this. I'm mulling over my options. My aim was to fix it and resell it. I'll be in touch. Grateful for your responses. Sincerely, Redemption.
 
Good Afternoon, Yes Redemption, I know what you mean.
 

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