MBF2256HES Maytag Bottom Freezer seems to get stuck in defrost

nateeric

Premium Member
Joined
Dec 10, 2018
Messages
3
Location
ND
Model
MBF2256HES
Brand
Maytag
Age
6-10 years
Hi,

I have a Maytag MBF2256HES. Back at the end of June or beginning of July I came home to all of the food in both my refrigerator and freezer thawed out and it was warm inside the unit. I called my local appliance repair place. The tech came out and said he knew exactly what the issue was, replaced the control board and $300 later I was cooling again. Now, at the beginning of Dec, I'm having the same issue. Lost all my food again. Talked to repair place, swapped out the control board once again. Worked for not even 2 weeks, and came home this weekend to everything thawed out once again.

It seems that if I adjust the thermostat, or unplug the unit and plug it back in it starts cooling again, but there seems to be no pattern or reason that it's getting warm inside the unit. I'm thinking the issue isn't actually the control board, unless I'm just real unlucky with control boards going out.

Anything I can look for myself, or am I better off buying a new unit?


Thanks!
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
99,226
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Hi,

When this problem happens is the refrigerator running? Or dead silent?

If its running and not cooling then feel the top of your compressor in the back to see if its warm and vibrating.

If the compressor is running and condenser fan that sits next to it is running and your getting no cooling at all, then you have a sealed system problem, and it would cost more to fix than its worth.

If everything is dead silent and nothing is running when this happens and the main control board fixes it then it goes out again, then you have a short somewhere in your wire harness that's causing it.

Jake
 

nateeric

Premium Member
Joined
Dec 10, 2018
Messages
3
Location
ND
I don't *think* it's a sealed system, because after I adjust the thermostat or unplug it and plug it back in it cools great. I can't remember if the compressor was running when it did it last. There doesn't seem to be any pattern to it happening, and I can't make it happen on demand, so I'll have to investigate next time it does it. Hopefully soon, because I'm hesitant to put any food back in it now.

Is there any sort of diagnostic codes that can be pulled up from the control board by chance?

Thanks for your help!
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
99,226
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona

nateeric

Premium Member
Joined
Dec 10, 2018
Messages
3
Location
ND
So, now that I've replaced the JAZZ control board 3 times, the refrigerator just did it again over the weekend. I was going to have a tech come out and look at it, but when I opened the door and closed it, it must have reset something because it started cooling again. I did notice this time when it was warm the unit was silent, so nothing must have been running at all. It does get warm in the unit, seemingly warmer than room temperature. I talked to a tech, but they said it's tough to troubleshoot if the unit isn't currently having the issue. He thought it might be the compressor, because it has a Tecumseh compressor in it and he said they've had a lot of issues with those.

Any other ideas what might be going on here? Would hate to buy a new unit because this one still cools great and is in good condition, I just cant figure out why it randomly gets warm inside.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
99,226
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Ok, its very simple, when it stops cooling pull the refrigerator out from the wall then remove the back access panel then feel the top of the compressor to see if its running and warm.

If its not running, then see if your getting 120 volts to it. Unplug your refrigerator first, then remove the compressor start relay , then remove those wires from it and put your meter probes in each, then plug your refrigerator in and see if the volt meter reads 120 volts constant, leave the meter probes in those 2 wires for about 30-60 seconds.

Here's the Compressor start relay device assembly for your model(It's the white part, not the black part):
W10613606 Compressor Start Device


That black part is the run capacitor, not the start capacitor, The only purpose of the run capacitor is to improve compressor operating efficiency, it has nothing to do with keeping the compressor running itself.

Jake
 
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