FIXED MDB6769AWB1 no op, standing water

[cmofknox]

Model Number

MDB6769AWB1

Brand

Maytag

Age

More than 10 years

Unsure if the dishwasher completed the last wash or not. Dishes looked clean but we don't recall if the 'clean' light was lit.

Days later we noticed standing water in bottom. Control membrane unresponsive. Tried turning power off at breaker, leaving off for >1 minute, then turning breaking back on. No change.

Turned power off again. Took door apart, removed 'ribbon' connector from control board that runs to the membrane switches. Ribbon looks good, no scorching! Control board also looks good - no noticeable issues. Reattached top of door enough to secure door latch, then resumed power to DW. No action. (Unsure if I've done that procedure properly to try to get the drain motor to kick in).

Thoughts to try next? I'd like to determine if I can isolate the bad part, before deciding whether to fix or replace.

 

[cmofknox]

Based on some googling, I've now removed the thermal fuse and tested continuity using a digital multimeter (I will admit I'm a newbie at this). It showed a 1 BEFORE touching the contacts, and remained a 1 afterwards. So it sounds like it could be the thermal fuse, and I need to replace it and the wiring bit (in that kit W10258275). Any other thoughts?

 

[Jake]

Hi,

Lets go back to your thread on this dishwasher from 2019 and can you please update it so we know how you fixed it then:

MDB6769AWB1 membrane/top control bad?

My Maytag top control dishwasher is approx 9 years old. Still runs fine, but I suspect either the circuit board or membrane switch (on the top of the door) is on the fritz. Most of the buttons don't respond, and honestly haven't for a few years now. I've nursed it along. I'm now to the point I...

www.applianceblog.com

For your current issue, yes if that thermal fuse did not ohm test good, meaning the numbers on your meter did NOT change when you ohm tested it, then its bad, which is causing this issue now.

Whenever you replace the thermal fuse--->You ALWAYS have to use the OEM thermal fuse and You ALSO must install the new wires that come with the thermal fuse kit TOO, or it will cause the thermal fuse to keep blowing out continually.

Here's the OEM thermal fuse for your model(Video Included in part link)
W10258275 Thermal Fuse


Let us know how it goes.

 

[cmofknox]

Hi Jake. Thanks for the info. I updated the old thread. I also ordered a new thermal fuse, and will install it as the OEM expects. Will circle back.

 

[Jake]

Thanks for the info. I updated the old thread.

Thanks!

I also ordered a new thermal fuse, and will install it as the OEM expects. Will circle back.

Sounds good, yes let us know how it goes, we LOVE updates here.

 

[cmofknox]

Installed the part. Was able to get it to drain. However, once I finished securing the outer door and it's dozen screws (I have the "hidden" control panel with the membrane on the top of the door, requiring you to remove the entire door panel to work on the controls), the wires had pulled out of the terminal block and it acted dead again.

What's the risk of cutting out the terminal block, connecting the wires directly, wrapping with generous amounts of electrical tape? I say this, as the instructions state to make sure the terminal block is "inside" the control housing, once finished. But that's hard to achieve. The new wire and block are too long and want to push everything to the outside of the control housing. So you twist them to get them inside, which loosens the connection at the terminal block junction. And with opening and closing the door, the connections break.

 

[cmofknox]

Let me add... in one a repair video I saw for this repair, they left the terminal block "outside" the control housing once complete. Maybe I should ignore the instructions and just that route. Will give it a try. I needed to step away anyway

 

[cmofknox]

OK. Finished. Left the terminal block "outside" the control housing, secured with a number of zip-ties to give it some slack. Hopefully it will hold for awhile. Appreciate your assistance Jake, and thanks to all for putting up with my mid-afternoon 'crabbiness.' Home repairs. Always fun!

 

[Jake]

Let me add... in one a repair video I saw for this repair, they left the terminal block "outside" the control housing once complete. Maybe I should ignore the instructions and just that route. Will give it a try.

OK. Finished. Left the terminal block "outside" the control housing, secured with a number of zip-ties to give it some slack. Hopefully it will hold for awhile.

Yes, that's the way to do it. Good job.

Thanks for the update!