BenH
Premium Member
- Model Number
- MDB7760AWS1
- Brand
- Maytag
- Age
- 6-10 years
My Maytag dishwasher keeps blowing the thermal fuse. The first time I replaced it I didn't use the wire kit that came with the fuse. I ordered second one and wait for it arrival.
Here is what I did:
1. Test the continuity of high Temperature Limit switch, it is "Close".
2. Heat up high temperature switch, it switch to open. Switch is good.
3. I took the outer door panel off. I saw some melt mark on inner door black insulation and electrical insulation tape on wire bundle. I guess that it may be caused by overheat since my wife recently always ran sanitize option due to covid19. but the washer should design to hold this kind high heat cycle.
4. Run diagnose cycle . Saw a fair amount water leak from door latch position. See picture where marked with red arrow. check the door latch, there is no tight water seal design. Water flow down into the bottom of dishwasher and was caught by a bottom grove. So the leak was not able to go down on the floor. Is this leak normal?
5. Diagnose cycle successfully completed. Motor current about 2.4A, Heater current is 6.8A. Total current 9.2 - 9.4A. The thermal fuse is 10A. I think this rated current on this fuse is so tight and easy to blow. What normal operation current I should expect from motor and heat?
6. Data sheet states the cycle after diagnose cycle will re calibrate the temperature sensor. Anyone has experience if this can fix overheat?
Thanks first for any help.
Here is what I did:
1. Test the continuity of high Temperature Limit switch, it is "Close".
2. Heat up high temperature switch, it switch to open. Switch is good.
3. I took the outer door panel off. I saw some melt mark on inner door black insulation and electrical insulation tape on wire bundle. I guess that it may be caused by overheat since my wife recently always ran sanitize option due to covid19. but the washer should design to hold this kind high heat cycle.
4. Run diagnose cycle . Saw a fair amount water leak from door latch position. See picture where marked with red arrow. check the door latch, there is no tight water seal design. Water flow down into the bottom of dishwasher and was caught by a bottom grove. So the leak was not able to go down on the floor. Is this leak normal?
5. Diagnose cycle successfully completed. Motor current about 2.4A, Heater current is 6.8A. Total current 9.2 - 9.4A. The thermal fuse is 10A. I think this rated current on this fuse is so tight and easy to blow. What normal operation current I should expect from motor and heat?
6. Data sheet states the cycle after diagnose cycle will re calibrate the temperature sensor. Anyone has experience if this can fix overheat?
Thanks first for any help.