MDB8959AWS6 Maytag dishwasher keeps stopping during dry cycle

Jessica Blache

Premium Member
Joined
Jul 6, 2011
Messages
14
Location
Louisiana
Model Number
MDB8959AWS6
Brand
Maytag
Age
6-10 years
My dishwasher keeps stopping in what seems to be the drying cycle. I’ve noticed the following:

- My dishwasher is able to start a Normal wash cycle, but it always stops during what I think is the dry cycle, based on the timing, clean dishes, and empty soap dispenser. There is a layer of hot water at the bottom of the dishwasher still.
- When it stops, for a few minutes, the control panel lights are all off, and the buttons are non-responsive. Then on its own, the panel’s Normal Wash light and Start/Resume light come back on. I can push the Start/Resume button, and the dishwasher starts again where it left off. If I restart it, it keeps stopping and requiring me to restart multiple times to get it to finish the cycle, unless I wait longer. If I don’t try to restart until the next morning, it finishes the cycle without restarting it a second time. I am thinking because it’s had time to cool off.
- If I use the InstaWash cycle, the dishwasher is able to complete a cycle without issue.
- If I don’t use heated dry, the dishwasher still requires me to restart it.
- I have done the Diagnostics Cycle, by pressing Heated Dry - Normal - Heated Dry - Normal. It runs through it without stopping. I can’t seem to be able to start a Diagnostics Cycle by pressing buttons in a 123123123 pattern.

I did replace the thermal fuse a couple of months ago, when the dishwasher stopped in the middle of the cycle and wouldn’t respond at all - no lights were on and no buttons worked. I tested the thermal fuse, and it was dead. I bought a replacement with wires from a local parts store and was able to install it. It worked fine until now.

It’s an older dishwasher, so I’m not thrilled about having to replace anything big like the control panel or control board. I have read that the latch/switch assembly or the vent/fan could cause the dishwasher to stop mid-cycle. The latch seems to sound/feel like it’s working correctly. I am planning on opening up the dishwasher panel and inspecting the wires, control panel, latch and then trying to measure the switch and vent to see if they are good. I’m wondering what folks think about my issue to see if I should be paying attention to other things, testing other things, and what seems likely to be the problem.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
100,762
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Hi Jessica,

Sounds like your control board is going bad.

Check your control board to see if you notice any burnt components on it. If so, that's definity the problem.

Here's the control board for your model(Video Included):
WPW10285179 Control Board


Let us know what you find.

Jake
 

Jessica Blache

Premium Member
Joined
Jul 6, 2011
Messages
14
Location
Louisiana
I was able to look at things tonight. I noticed that the black rubbery material had kinda melted into the wires that connect into the control board. I think this may have been present when I replaced the thermal fuse a couple months ago, but I’m not sure. I do see some browning of a white wire going into one of the plugs of the control board too, but that’s all that I can tell. I tried to attach images of the melted stuff of the wires and the browning of the white wire.

The control panel itself though looks ok as far as I can tell visually. I did test the door latch and my replaced thermal fuse while I was there. The door latch was fine, and the thermal fuse read kinda funny. It didn’t read 1 or 0, but fluctuated a lot, then around 2, when I used the lowest resistance on my multimeter. My vent doesn’t have any kind of connectors to it, so I guess it’s not that. Do you still think it’s the control panel?

I am currently running a light wash to see what happens, just in case I jiggled a loose cable free. Wishful thinking.
 

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Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Messages
100,762
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Yes, look at that white wire where it looks burnt as its going into the connector that connects to the control board, pull the connector up and you will likely see it burnt there on the control board.

Make sure your breaker is OFF to your dishwasher, you don't want sparks to fly.:)

Jake
 

Jessica Blache

Premium Member
Joined
Jul 6, 2011
Messages
14
Location
Louisiana
I’ve been waiting for this light wash cycle to finish. It’s taking longer than what I think it should. I guess this is part of the problem. I think I’ll have to wait until morning to take a better look at the control panel under those browned wires. Let me know if I should do additional things while I am there based on this cycle taking so long to finish. It’s been 1 hour 6 minutes so far. Thanks for all your help. I’ll reply back tomorrow.
 

Jessica Blache

Premium Member
Joined
Jul 6, 2011
Messages
14
Location
Louisiana
So it took 1 hour, 55 ish minutes, but the Light wash cycle finished without any need to restart. I’m so confused. I’ll do a Normal wash cycle now, and just go to bed. I’ll see if by morning there’s a problem.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Joined
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Messages
100,762
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Pull that connector up and you will find the control board burnt, seen this happen many times on my service calls.

You will need a new control board, not control panel.:)

Jake
 

Jessica Blache

Premium Member
Joined
Jul 6, 2011
Messages
14
Location
Louisiana
It looks like the control board is fried at both connectors. I’m amazed the dishwasher still runs some. I’m worried that the cables with connectors are melted and may not be good, in addition to the control board itself. I’ve attached pictures. What do you think?
 

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Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Messages
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Yes, I see.

The first photo the connector on the left looks fine still, the one on the right where the plastic is melted badly, that's the one you will need to remove and buy new female terminal ends so you can cut the old ones off and splice the new female ones on.

Do you have a wire stripper? Have you ever stripped the insulation on a wire and spliced a new metal terminal onto the wire?

If not, do you have friends or relatives that have before?

Jake
 

Jessica Blache

Premium Member
Joined
Jul 6, 2011
Messages
14
Location
Louisiana
I did have to strip wires to replace the thermal fuse. Would I need to purchase the wire harness replacement part and then cut which wires/connector so I need from it to spice into mine? I think that with the control board and wire harness, the cost of repairing doesn’t seem worth such an old refrigerator. I’m very grateful for all the help.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Messages
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If you buy the complete wire harness no cutting or splicing is needed, unless you just replace the console wire harness only, then you cut and wire nut that melted connector harness only.

But its much more expensive to get the complete wire harness than just doing what I mentioned to do in post #9.

Here's the wire harness for your model:
WPW10413099 Harns-Wire


Jake
 

Jessica Blache

Premium Member
Joined
Jul 6, 2011
Messages
14
Location
Louisiana
Where would I buy new female terminal ends so I can cut the old ones off and splice the new female ones on without buying the whole harness?
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Joined
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Messages
100,762
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Any hardware store has them, Ace Hardware, True Value, Lowe's, Home Depot.

Jake
 
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