FIXED MDB8969SDM3 Maytag dishwasher won't fill with water

Jrobee

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Joined
Feb 9, 2019
Messages
8
Location
NH
Model Number
MDB8969SDM3
Brand
Maytag
Age
1-5 years
My dishwasher just stopped filling with water. I tested the float switch for continuity, and the inlet valve lets water in when I connect it to external power. So I replaced the control board, and it's still doing the same thing. The motor turns on to drain any water left in it, then about 10-20 seconds later the spray arm starts spinning, but without water.

Is there something else that could be bad, like a relay? Could the float switch be bad even though it has continuity and I can hear it clicking, because it's happened before and I fiddled with the float and it starting working properly. I'd appreciate any suggestions you might have.
 
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Jake

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Hi,

We need the complete model number of your dishwasher first. Your missing the last digit, and that last digit is very important.:)

Here's the results I get:
MDB8969SDM0
MDB8969SDM1
MDB8969SDM2
MDB8969SDM3

Jake
 

Jrobee

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Oh, sorry. On one of the sites I've been to they said they didn't need the last digit. The last number is 3.
 

Jake

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Thanks,

If you ohm tested your float switch, then it should be fine.

Take the electrical connector off of the water inlet valve and get a multimeter and put the meter probes in each terminal connector then wait for the fill cycle and see if your meter reads 120 volts, if so, then your water inlet valve is the culprit.

Here's the water inlet valve for your model(Video Included):
WPW10327249 Water Inlet Valve


Let us know what you find.

Jake
 

Jrobee

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Location
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Actually, I have tried a new valve, which didn't fix the problem and after testing the float switch, led me to replacing the control board. I don't know what else could be wrong. :-/
 

Jake

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Ok, put everything back in place and then let's do a general reset per the Diagnostics Cycle.

To invoke the Diagnostics Cycle, perform the following while in standby:
■ Press START/RESUME to wake up the control panel.
■ Press any 3 keys in the sequence 1-2-3-1-2-3-1-2-3 with no more than 1 second between key presses. NOTE: Some models have replaced the “Clean” LED with “Completed.”
■ The Service Diagnostics Cycle will start when the door is closed.

Invoking Service Diagnostics clears all status and last run information from memory and restores defaults.
■ Drain and wash motors will pulsate on and off.
■ Last run cycles and options are returned to default.
■ Reset OWI calibration values to the default values.
■ Forces OWI (Optical Water Indicator) calibration cycle on next customer cycle.

NOTE: Calibration cycle may add additional rinses prior to the final rinse to assure clear water and then calibrates the OWI during the fill at the beginning of the final rinse.
■ Operating state returns to standby upon completing or terminating the service diagnostics cycle.

LET IT RUN ALL THE WAY THROUGH: Service diagnostic cycle will take about 23 minutes.

Do that, and report back.:)

Jake
 

Jrobee

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Location
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Hi Jake,
I was really hoping that was going to get it working again, but no such luck. Still seems to cycle through normally, but without water. I might try bypassing the float switch tomorrow, just to rule that out entirely. I've been messing with it for a week, and I've had enough for today. ;-)
 

Jake

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Jrobee

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I haven't bypassed the switch yet. I need to run out and get some connectors. But it looks like the error code is F6, E2. Does that sound likely?
 

Jake

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Yes,

F6 E2 is FILL VALVE ELECTRICAL PROBLEM.

You have already replaced the fill valve and control board.

Did you do the voltage test I posted in post #4? If not its very important you do that, because the way it looks now is you bought a faulty part, if/when you bypass the float switch and it still acts up.

If you don't have a multimeter, please get one.:) All hardware stores sell them, and they last a lifetime.

Jake
 

Jrobee

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Okay. So, I bypassed the float switch, and get a reading of about 12 volts from the inlet valve connector. It reads that as soon as I close the door and the cycle starts, and never changes right through till the wash motor starts. Do you think putting the original board back in and doing a general reset might help to narrow down the possible cause? Electrical parts are non-returnable where I bought it, but if it's possibly defective they might exchange it for another board. I guess it's worth paying more for a part if you are able to return it. ;-)
 

Jake

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Yes, because you should be getting 120 volts, not 12 volts.:)

Have them exchange it for another control board.

Here's the control board for your model:
Control Board W10737607


When you order parts from AppliancePartsPros and RepairClinic, you have 365 days to return the part/parts(even electrical parts) for a full refund, less shipping, for any reason, even if you install the part/parts and it doesn't fix the problem.

Let us know!

Jake
 

Jake

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Yes, you can put the old control board back in, then do that reset per the Diagnostics Cycle I posted in post #6 and see what happens.:)

Jake
 

Jrobee

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Hi Jake,
I put the original board back in and tried to do the reset through the Diagnostic cycle, but it wouldn't start the cycle. So, after 2 tries I decided to see if it works in the customer cycles. I never thought that I would be so happy to hear water splashing around in my dishwasher!!! It just completed a rinse only cycle with all the original components. Go figure. So I want to thank you for all your help and advice as I sure learned a lot about repairing dishwashers. ;-) I'm out $135, but at least I'm not out $135 and still have a broken dishwasher, although there's no way of knowing if it will happen again. Thanks again, and I'll be clicking on the 'Donate' button as soon as I send this.
 

Jake

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So, after 2 tries I decided to see if it works in the customer cycles.
What do you mean by customer cycles?

Jake
 

Jrobee

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Just the normal use cycles, as opposed to the Diagnostic cycle. That's how it was referred to in the Tech Sheet link you sent me, anyway.
 

Jake

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Got it!

Thanks.

Jake
 
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