• Please note, some of the links on our site are affiliate links (Learn More)

FIXED MDE5500AYW Maytag Neptune Dryer No Heat - Stumped

Status
Not open for further replies.

Gartuzzi

Premium Member
Joined
Dec 3, 2011
Messages
7
Location
Colorado
Model Number
MDE5500AYW
Brand
Maytag
Age
1-5 years
Hello, I've been looking around this forum while trying to fix my dryer and am amazed with the support and good advice around here. Hopefully somebody has an idea on my situation. I haven't seen anything previously posted but if I missed it sorry!

Have an electric Maytag Neptune MDE5500AYW dryer producing no heat. Here's what I've done:

Checked venting, hose, etc. Everything was pretty lint free and is totally clean now. Good air flow.

Checked the following for continuity:
Heating Element
Both Thermostats
Thermal Fuses (2 of them I believe)

Checked thermistor for resistance, seems right - a bit over 10k ohms at room temp.

Still, the heating element does not warm. Everything else is working (tumbling, display, etc).

Didn't get any codes in diagnostic mode.

I'm kind of stumped. What can I check next?

Thanks in advance for any help! -Chris
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Messages
37,981
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
Since you've checked all the thermostats and heater, first double check your circuit breakers and reset them. Verify 220 VAC at the machine. Remove the wire on the heating element coming from the high limit thermostat. With your meter set to check AC volts, start the dryer on timed dry high heat. Touch one meter probe to the wire you just removed from the element and touch the other probe to a ground screw or a screw in the cabinet. Then touch one meter probe to the wire still on the element and touch the other probe to a ground screw. One of wires will most likely have 120 VAC. Tell me which one.
 

Gartuzzi

Premium Member
Joined
Dec 3, 2011
Messages
7
Location
Colorado
First off, thanks so much for your help. Really appreciate it.

I am getting 220 at the wall.

"Touch one meter probe to the wire you just removed from the element and touch the other probe to a ground screw or a screw in the cabinet." - This reads 124.
"Then touch one meter probe to the wire still on the element and touch the other probe to a ground screw." - This reads nothing.
 

Gartuzzi

Premium Member
Joined
Dec 3, 2011
Messages
7
Location
Colorado
OK, thank you very much. Is that for sure what it is? Nothing else to check? Just want to make sure since it's so expensive. Is that something I can switch out myself without too much trouble?
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Messages
37,981
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
Yes, I'm sure. The only component that needs 220 VAC is the heating element. The rest of the dryer only requires 120 VAC. One leg of the power runs from the power block to the motor switch then to the element. Check the connections on the motor switch to be sure one hasn't come off. It's not to difficult to replace but does require some mechanical ability.
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Messages
37,981
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
I double checked and that's the correct motor for that model number. The motor switch is the same on both motors.
 

Gartuzzi

Premium Member
Joined
Dec 3, 2011
Messages
7
Location
Colorado
OK, so I swapped the motor switch out from the new motor and put it on the old one (because the shaft was threaded on the old motor, not threaded on the new motor). Everything is hooked up exactly as it should be. The little piece in the motor that activates that switch (the piece that sucks into the motor while it's on) is working perfectly, the drop-down piece from the switch comes in contact with it perfectly. It all seems like it's working as it should, however, there is still no electricity coming out of the motor switch to the heating element when it's running. Is there anything between the motor and the motor switch that could be causing a problem? Is that the same line that's powering the motor? The motor runs fine. Any other ideas? The black wire is the one going to the heating element. I'm over my head with the wiring diagram. :confused: Is there a reason it wouldn't be sending power through because I haven't put it all back together yet (cold air coming from outside to the thermistor/low thermostat)?
 

Gartuzzi

Premium Member
Joined
Dec 3, 2011
Messages
7
Location
Colorado
Disregard the long block of text above...it's no longer correct, sorry. After replacing the motor switch, I am now getting 122v now to each side of the heating element. The fuses and thermostats all have continuity, thermistor is correct at 10k ohms (approx) and the heating element reads 10.4ohms resistance from outside the little connector pieces and also inside directly on the coils. Is it possible that the heating element is bad as well and still reading the correct resistance? Anything else that would keep it from heating, now that it's getting full power and all put back together? Motor is running fine. Thanks again.
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Messages
37,981
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
Unplug the dryer and remove the wire from the element coming from the high limit thermostat. Set your meter to read volts AC and put one meter probe in the wire you just removed from the element. Restore power and start the dryer on timed dry 50 minutes. Touch the other meter probe to any ground screw or metal screw. Then remove the probe from the wire and touch it to the wire still connected to the element and the other probe to any screw. One of those readings will most likely be 120 VAC. Tell me which one.
 

Gartuzzi

Premium Member
Joined
Dec 3, 2011
Messages
7
Location
Colorado
After replacing the motor switch, both legs are now sending 122v into the element. Heating element reads 10.4 ohms resistance.
 

00cyclone

Premium Member
Joined
Jun 24, 2020
Messages
7
Location
Dallas, Texas
Since you've checked all the thermostats and heater, first double check your circuit breakers and reset them. Verify 220 VAC at the machine. Remove the wire on the heating element coming from the high limit thermostat. With your meter set to check AC volts, start the dryer on timed dry high heat. Touch one meter probe to the wire you just removed from the element and touch the other probe to a ground screw or a screw in the cabinet. Then touch one meter probe to the wire still on the element and touch the other probe to a ground screw. One of wires will most likely have 120 VAC. Tell me which one.
Mr. Burton, Hi there. I believe I am chasing the same problem on a Maytag MDE3000AYW. I'm not at the machine right now but can be tonight. If the wire from the high limit is hot or not (120v) it means? If the wire still on the heating element is hot or not hot (120v to ground) it means? Motor switch? Which I believe is good. Thanks in advance. 00cyclone
 

00cyclone

Premium Member
Joined
Jun 24, 2020
Messages
7
Location
Dallas, Texas
Didn't have time last night to meter things, but will have answers this weekend. And thanks for the reply. Do the Infinite Temp Switches on these fail often?
 

00cyclone

Premium Member
Joined
Jun 24, 2020
Messages
7
Location
Dallas, Texas
Okay, the tests. Freed wire from high limit thermostat (purple) to ground + 13.2 volts AC, black wire (other side, not disconnected from element) to ground + 123 volts AC. Cycling Thermostat shows
continuity (beeps on Ohms test), as does the Hi-Limit Thermostat and both thermal fuses. Wall outlet power is 124 and 123 on both hot legs, and the same at the terminal block. No burned wires.
Ideas sir? Any more fuses buried in an unseen spot. Dryness sensor cleaned with 70% isopropyl alcohol. Many Thanks!
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Messages
37,981
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
Set the timer on timed dry about 40 minutes and unplug the machine. Access the timer and check for continuity between BK and BU. Remove at least one of the wires from the timer. No continuity:
 

00cyclone

Premium Member
Joined
Jun 24, 2020
Messages
7
Location
Dallas, Texas
With light blue wire pulled free, from black terminal to blue terminal, no continuity. Also from free blue wire to black terminal on timer, also no continuity
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top