an up date on the machine. The control panel and the ecm have been replaced. all functions light up but the machine wont start up, I can get it to go into test mode and the drum will turn, buts that's it. I can also get it run if I unplug the wires from the heater relay and jump across the relay it self, all thermostats ohm out good, this thing has been a mystery.
yeah that would be great, but we are 75 miles from the closet town and I'm not sure if they have the Maytag repair man haha. we have replaced the ECM 3 times with really, so that can't be it, im pretty sure it was a power serge that started this all but ive got to be missing something here and its probably soothing simple. Ok thanks for your help.
the interface assembly and the ecm have both been replaced, I'm able to get the machine running and all the functions on the interface work I just can't get it to heat. I have OHM the heating element, high limit thermostat,thermal cut-off, thermal fuse and tested the exhaust thermistor to make sure it was in OHM range and all tested fine, I'm stumped?
Ok, so before you said it wasn't running, so what fixed it to start running again?
Now just no heat?
Did you first check your dual breaker in your home breaker box to make sure one is not tripped? I've seen that happen a lot on my service calls, if one is tripped and one is not, it will run but never heat.
If your dual breaker is not tripped, then pull your dryer out from the wall, then unplug it, then check your terminal block where your power cord connects to.
I see that happen a lot too, look here:
(click to enlarge)
When you click the links to the terminal block and terminal kit you will see HOW TO videos.
If you see no broken wires at the terminal block, then The first thing I always do is use my multimeter to do a volt test at the dryer terminal block, where the power cord connects to it.
First make sure your getting 230-240 volts at the terminal block in the back of your dryer. The outer wires are hot, middle wire is neutral. So put your volt meter probes on each of the two outer wires at the terminal block and see what your meter reads, you should get 230-240 volts between the two outer wires on the terminal block.
Sorry i should of mentioned that I had checked all those things already. On your first question, when I first looked at the machine it was a box job, the owner had taken it apart somewhat to put in the new boards, him and his buddy could get it to run only when they unplugged the wires going to the heater relay and jumped across the relay. After getting the machine and starting to reassemble it the plugin going to the P9 in the ECM was barely in, maybe this was the problem for them I don't know. I reassembled the machine and when I tried it everything worked but no heat.
with out the power button on, I pressed the start/pause button and control lights come on along with the power button but nothing turns on, if i press the start button a second time the machine fires up, but no heat. I proceeded to test#4 pg 5 and heater omes good and so does the high heat thermister. Checking the red wires from P-4 #3 and #6 and i get a ohm reading of 18.23. This is a new ecm that has been put in so I'm not sure what might be going on.
Your really not suppose to lubricate them, I had a Samsung dryer last Saturday in Blythe, California and the rollers were worn out, along with one roller shaft that was pitted, So I ordered all the 4 rollers and all 4 shafts and went back to fix it and it worked great!
thanks for the info Jake. On the dryer, the owner had enough of it and just gave it to me, the control board that he had got on line said reconditioned on it, and he sent it back for a refund, Its a nice dryer so I was kicking around ordering a new control board for it and see what happens, everything else checked out on it so i'm thinking it was a defective board.