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MEDC215EW1 Maytag Dryer shuts off randomly in the middle of any cycle

Jeffwhiteis

Premium Member
Joined
Feb 2, 2021
Messages
9
Location
Conway, SC
Model Number
MEDC215EW1
Brand
Maytag
Age
1-5 years
Maytag Electric Dryer: Dryer shuts off randomly in the middle of any cycle. Sometimes it doesn’t start right back up, sometimes it does.

Dryer turns off randomly after 5-10 minutes. Sometimes sooner, sometimes it runs a little longer.

Cycle thermostat seems to be working - I can see the heating coils turn on and off randomly when its running.

Even on “no heat tumble” the dryer randomly turns off. Dryer randomly turns off on any setting.

Dryer has heat. The drum spins fine with normal resistance.

When dryer randomly stops and wont start again the dryer inside light does not work. But the light work once the dryer is running and the door is open.

When dryer doesn’t want to start again, I can hear a weird clicking sound when I press the start button.

Dryer has a history of blowing the thermal fuse. Have replaced it twice in the past 9 months.

There are no clogs in the vent hose, no clogs in the blower fins, and no clogs in the exhaust duct.
 

Dan O.

Appliance Tech
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Joined
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Messages
3,845
Location
Ontario, Canada
Jeffwhiteis said:
Sometimes it doesn’t start right back up, sometimes it does.

Stopping running and unable to restart immediately is a common sign of the motor overheating and cutting out on its overload protector. It will not restart until the protector has a chance to cool and reset. I don't know about the 'sometimes it does'. Maybe something else is stopping it those times?

The motor overheating is most often caused by worn motor bearings which would usually require the motor to be replaced. One other possibility for overheating is the motor might be plugged up with lint and dust, etc. causing it to overheat.

LINK > MEDC215EW1 Motor

Basically, if there's power at the motor it should be running. If there power there but it's not, the motor is defective.


Jeffwhiteis said:
When dryer randomly stops and wont start again the dryer inside light does not work.

The motor overheating wouldn't affect the light. And by looking at the wiring diagram, the only things that would affect the light is the door switch, the wiring or the light itself.

LINK > Door Switch

The door switch could also affect the running of the motor however, I wouldn't expect its failure to reset on its own but stranger things have happened.

Jeffwhiteis said:
Dryer has a history of blowing the thermal fuse. Have replaced it twice in the past 9 months. There are no clogs in the vent hose, no clogs in the blower fins, and no clogs in the exhaust duct.

That's not a good sign. You checked for clogs in the venting all the way from the dryer to the outdoors?

How long is the vent (all the way to the outdoors) and what material is it made of? What kind of vent cover is on it? You can read some venting information at this link:

LINK > Dryer Venting Information


Dan O.
 

Jeffwhiteis

Premium Member
Joined
Feb 2, 2021
Messages
9
Location
Conway, SC
No clogs in the hose or the duct going outside. It vented fine.

The dryer has 240V at the terminals.

I tested both thermosats and the thermal fuse for continuity. All good there.

The cycling thermostat has 4 terminals total, the main terminals have continuity but the 2 terminals where the 2 purple wires go do not. Not sure if thats normal or not.

The dryer wont turn on at all now. But I can hear a buzzing/clicking sound when I try to start the dryer. The inside light wont work either.

I can hear the timer when I put the dryer on the timer setting.
 

Dan O.

Appliance Tech
Staff member
Joined
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Messages
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Location
Ontario, Canada
the 2 terminals where the 2 purple wires go do not [have continuity]

Those are for an internal heater. They will have some restistance but I don't know how much. It might not register 'continuity' depending on the meter. Its failure would however only affect the temperature it dries at but not prevent anything from actually functioning.

The dryer has 240V at the terminals.

At what terminals?

What about 120v?

LINK > The Appliance Clinic: Dryer Outlet


As I said, the wiring diagram shows the light isn't connected to any other components in the dryer besides the door switch. If it isn't operating, it's either the switch, the light, the light's wiring or power not getting to the dryer properly.

A common point for a wiring problem is where the the cord connects to the dryer wiring. I suggest thoroughly inspecting it and tightening any connections as well as the wall outlet connections.

LINK > The Appliance Clinic: Electric Dryer Defective Main Terminal Block

A bad neutral connection would stop everything that runs on 120v (light, motor). The timer motor on that model dryer looks to be powered by 240 volts so it would be unaffected by a loss of the neutral that creates the 120v.


Dan O.
 

Jeffwhiteis

Premium Member
Joined
Feb 2, 2021
Messages
9
Location
Conway, SC
I used my multimeter and tested the 3 screws on the back, i had 120v and 120v from the 3 screws that the power cord is connected to.
 

Dan O.

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Sorry but I've suggested all the possibilities I can see causing your symptoms.


Dan O.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Aug 24, 2004
Messages
117,160
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Yes, that's what it sounds like.

I located another thread with this exact same problem and exact same timer and the new timer fixed it:

Here's the timer for your model you can order:
WPW10185982 Timer


Let us know how it goes.

Jake
 

Dan O.

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Messages
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Could a bad timer be causing this?

The timer could be what's stopping the motor yes but shouldn't have anything to do with the light. I was looking for something in common with both symptoms as you indicated they were occurring together.

Let us know how you make out.

Dan O.
 

Dan O.

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I used my multimeter and tested the 3 screws on the back, i had 120v and 120v from the 3 screws that the power cord is connected to.

BTW. You did do those tests when the problem was actually occurring right? If not performed until after the condition 'reset', the fault may not have been visible.

Dan O.
 

Jeffwhiteis

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Feb 2, 2021
Messages
9
Location
Conway, SC
Yes sir, tested them after. Can I test the timer for continuity? I used my multimeter and even as I turned the timer dial to different settings it kept registering as “OL”
 

Dan O.

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There should be a wiring diagram in the machine showing how the timer contacts close. Maybe Jake can tell you which contacts to test for your symptoms?

Dan O.
 

Jeffwhiteis

Premium Member
Joined
Feb 2, 2021
Messages
9
Location
Conway, SC
There should be a wiring diagram in the machine showing how the timer contacts close. Maybe Jake can tell you which contacts to test for your symptoms?

Dan O.
 

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Jeffwhiteis

Premium Member
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Feb 2, 2021
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Location
Conway, SC
Think I may have found the issue - the one side of the terminals was only getting 30ish volts and the other side of the terminals was getting 120v.
I checked the outside breaker and it was in the “on” position. I flipped it off and back on. Dryer would then turn on.
Then again the dryer wouldnt work, i checked the breaker, it was in the on position, flipped it off and back on, and the dryer worked.
 

Dan O.

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Previously you said, " i had 120v and 120v from the 3 screws that the power cord is connected to".

Hopefully fixing that will solve the problem.

Dan O.
 

Jeffwhiteis

Premium Member
Joined
Feb 2, 2021
Messages
9
Location
Conway, SC
It had 120v and 120v at one time, but it may have been when the dryer was working. Its just intermittent. But does that sound like a breaker problem?
 

Dan O.

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Dan O. said:
You did do those tests when the problem was actually occurring right? If not performed until after the condition 'reset', the fault may not have been visible.

Jeffwhiteis said:

You have experienced technicians here trying to assist you for free, you could at least make an effort provide accurate answers and not waste their time.


Jeffwhiteis said:
But does that sound like a breaker problem?

Not necessarily. Anything in the wiring circuit including loose connections and bad wiring anywhere from the breaker panel to the dryer and the dryer connections as well, plus possibly a defective breaker, could be responsible for power issues. If you can't determine the cause, I suggest you call an electrician to track it down. Loose connections can be a fire hazard.


Dan O.
 
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