MEDC300XW0 only runs when in wrinke prevent mode.

johnwill73

Premium Member
Joined
Feb 27, 2019
Messages
5
Location
Kansas City
Model Number
MEDC300XW0
Brand
Maytag
Age
6-10 years
Today my Maytag dryer stop tumbling when we hit the start button. When I turn the timer to select a cycle, I can hear it running. When I hit the start button, I can hear it engage properly. Nothing happens, EXCEPT when its on Sensor Dry side and the timer is in the Wrinkle Protect section between Cool Down and Off. As the timer runs, it will periodically start and stop as it normally does when on this side of the dial. No where else on the timer will it start. Any thoughts? Timer issue or thermal sensor?
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
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Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
Sorry, not following;

When I turn the timer to select a cycle, I can hear it running.
What do you hear running??


When I hit the start button, I can hear it engage properly. Nothing happens,
What is it you hear engage that nothing happens?



No where else on the timer will it start.

Check the door switch and thermal fuse for continuity. Measure the voltage where the power cord connects to the machine:
L-Power cord.jpg
 

johnwill73

Premium Member
Joined
Feb 27, 2019
Messages
5
Location
Kansas City
Sorry if I was not clear.

When I turn the timer dial, I can hear it humming, which to me means that the timer is running.

When I hit the start button, I can hear it engage.

Basically, the only time the dryer turns is when the timer is in the section marked Wrinkle Protect on the Sensor Dry side of the dial. When its there, it will periodically start up for about 30 seconds and then shut off, which I think is normal operations. When its in any of the sections where you would expect it to run, heat up, and dry the clothes, it does not turn on. This and the fact that the drum light turns off when I manually engage the door switch indicates that is not the issue (to me).
 

rickgburton

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When I turn the timer dial, I can hear it humming,
OK, you hear the timer motor. I get that. And if you left it on, the timer would count down normally and shut off. That's normal.


When I hit the start button, I can hear it engage.
The timer motor doesn't have a clutch so there's nothing to engage . I don't know what you hear ??¿¿



Wrinkle Protect... it will periodically start up for about 30 seconds.....When its in any of the sections it does not turn on.
Yep, I got all that from your first post. Wrinkle Protect, not important. The machine doesn't turn on is the problem we are troubleshooting.


... light turns off when I manually engage the door switch indicates that is not the issue (to me).
Not to me. The door switch is actually two switches, a NO switch and a NC switch. When the door is open the circuit for the light is complete and the circuit for the motor is open. When the door is closed the motor circuit is complete and the light circuit is open. Just because part of the switch works doesn't mean the switch is good.

So we're back to where we started.

rickgburton said:
Check the door switch (because it's two switches) and thermal fuse (I guess you missed that) for continuity. Measure the voltage where the power cord connects to the machine (in Wrinkle Guard motor supply voltage comes from L2 and not L1)


You need to trust me my friend, I have 35 years experience repairing appliances and I'm not randomly picking parts to test. If we can avoid the Q and A, we will have this diagnosed in no time.

rickgburton
 

johnwill73

Premium Member
Joined
Feb 27, 2019
Messages
5
Location
Kansas City
Unfortunately, I do not have a Volt/Ohm meter. I do have a simple outlet tester, and I was able to see on the door switch that I was getting power on one side when it was not engaged (light switch?), and power on the other side when the switch was engaged. Both sides lit up on 110v, I assume that is correct??

As for the thermal fuse, I unhooked it and connected the leads together to bypass it and it still did not run.
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
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Unfortunately, I do not have a Volt/Ohm meter.
You need one. Especially if you plan to do more repairs. This one has everything you need for under $20 or check the home centers. Harbor Freight has them. It will take you less than 30 minutes to learn how to use it.

Multimeter DM10T
Multimeter-DM10T-01816678.jpg
 

rickgburton

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Messages
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Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
Sounds like the door switch is probably ok. If you have a belt switch check that next. I don't see one in the parts diagram and it says it's optional on the tech sheet so I don't think you have one.

You'll need to check for continuity on the timer between T-X and T2-S with the timer set on timed dry. If the timer motor is running you have 120 VAC on one side of the PTS switch.

So with the thermal fuse bypassed and no belt switch and assuming the PTS switch is good, L1 is present at M4 and you're losing the Neutral side of the circuit. The N side is from the door switch through the timer T2-S to M5
 

Jake

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McMullen Valley, Arizona
I don't see a belt switch on this model either Rick.:)

Here's the timer for your model John:
WP8566184 Timer


Jake
 
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