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MEDX655DW1 Maytag Dryer multiple cycles to dry

Matfam

Premium Member
Joined
Aug 23, 2015
Messages
5
Location
Oregon
Model Number
MEDX655DW1
Brand
Maytag
Age
Less than 1 year
Good Afternoon.
I have a new Maytag MEDX655DW1. It makes some kind of rattling noise (i'm hearing impaired and can't hear it. My wife can though...) and takes multiple cycles to dry a load of clothes. As its still under factory we called and requested warranty service. The technician came out pulled the back off of the dryer, removed the element and stated that we had a vent problem based off of the visual darkening of the element assembly.

I am a HVAC tech and do tons of troubleshooting and design work. I grabbed my drain line camera and we scoped the vent. It was slightly occluded, but not close to plugged. He left and I went to HD and got a brush and cleaned the line, scoping it again to be certain. Its clean. There are 4 90° elle's and 15' of lineal pipe between the dryer and the flapper assembly. It is installed per the manufactures instructions.

Same technician has been back twice, doing the same thing, making the same diagnosis.

I'm completely ok with having a vent problem--- odd that it only happens on a brand new dryer and not the old dryer. Ok though.

Here is what I don't know and can't find
  • How many CFM is my dryer rated for? (empty dryer)
  • what is the allowable temperature rise across the element? (empty dryer) (measured between ambient air and the interior drum)
  • what is the design static?
If I have a vent problem... That's easy to solve; however I have to know what I am shooting for. Unlike the technician that came out, I don't get paid to guess and replace parts. I get paid to make accurate technical diagnosis and solve problems.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
117,784
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Pull your dryer away from the wall, take off the exhaust vent, then run a load with the warm/hot air just flowing into your laundry room, open a window or 2 so it doesn't get to hot in your laundry room. If it dry's a normal load within an hour, then your problem is the exhaust vent to the outside of your house is clogged.

You'll need a thermometer to take its temperature, With the dryer on high heat, the temperature inside the dryer should be between 120*F to 190*F. When you first start the dryer from a cold start it should get up to about 190*F, then the cycling thermostat tells the heating element to turn OFF, and the temperature should drop to about 120*F. Then keep repeating that cycling process.

My multimeter reads temperature, it comes with a probe you put in the dryer door. With NO CLOTHES in the dryer--->Just open the dryer door and insert the probe, then close the door and run the dryer and watch the meter. Don't put the probe to far in or it will be hitting the drum as it turns.

Jake
 

Matfam

Premium Member
Joined
Aug 23, 2015
Messages
5
Location
Oregon
Still having problems.... grrrr.

Maytag wants to send a senior technician out.... the provider in my area only has 1 dryer technician, and he can't answer technical questions. I did find a dryer test kit thing that hangs in the dryer and blows around.... If it blows off in 15 seconds 2 of every 3 times the venting is fine. Mine passes that test. I reworked the venting and removed all of the metal flex; now it is 100% hard aluminum pipe. I have 4 90s and 15' of pipe. According to the install manual I am well within specification

Using the sensible heat calculation I think I am moving around 138.7CFM. It operates per the cycle described above.

I spoke to another service provider (they only service what they sell, not mine). He did agree that my venting appears to be within specification. However he said that the internal temps should never rise above 155F.... with a 5200W element thats about 227 cfm or ~2.5"hg and around 3200 fpm....that would be horrifically loud.

Disconnecting the dryer from the vent and operating it, only proves that the vent is a restriction, which is a given. Obviously is will breath better with the venting disconnected; it's not designed or intended to operate that way though.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
117,784
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Yes, its most likely that vent run.

Now I remember about 15 years ago in Eugene, Oregon when I worked at Sears, I had a customer that this was happening to as well, the only solution was an "indoor vent kit" that you can purchase at any hardware store, Lowe's, Home Depot, Ace Hardware, True Value Hardware.

After they got the indoor vent kit they never had anymore problems.

Jake
 

Matfam

Premium Member
Joined
Aug 23, 2015
Messages
5
Location
Oregon
An indoor vent kit is not an option.... 5200 watts = 18430.2 btuh of sensible load plus all of the latent load from the humidity. Thats a non-starter. How can it be the vent if it is installed according to manufacture specifications? Are the specifications wrong?
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
117,784
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Trust me, I've seen this many times on my service calls.

Jake
 
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