FIXED MER5755QAW Maytag Range Bake Element Not Working - And It's a Mystery...

[Schmoe]

Model Number

MER5755QAW

Brand

Maytag

Age

6-10 years

So, I am completely LOST on what seems like it should be a simple problem, and I'm wondering if any of the experts here might be able to offer any advice.

I have a Maytag MER5755QAW and I recently had an incident where the bake element went out in SPECTACULAR fashion- taking out about 6-7 inches of the heating element which dropped into the bottom of the oven. Also, my girlfriend who was near the oven at the time heard an electrical hum and then a bright spark shot out of the top of the oven near the control board.

The control board was obviously dead as not even the clock had a display and all buttons were unresponsive. So, I ordered a refurbished control board. When I got the control board and installed it, all other functions would work, BUT - the oven would only heat to about 200 degrees in an hour. So I checked the bake element, and this is when I found that it was missing a large burnt out section.

So, I ordered a new bake element and replaced it, but... still the same problem. Oven bake element will not heat. The broiler works fine, as do all other functions.

So far I have done the following:
1. I re-checked my recently-purchased heating element and confirmed that it is good. It has a resistance of about 16ohms and no visible “bad spots”.
2. I checked power to the stove, which is fine and is the expected 240 volts across outside terminals, 120 from center to outside.
3. I checked the temperature probe, which is fine, with resistance around 1k to 1.1k ohms
4. I checked for burnt wires, but I don’t see anything out of the ordinary.
As far as I know, or can see, this model doesn’t have a thermal fuse.

Hopefully some of you can shed some light on this very odd problem. I am completely confused.

 

[Dan O.]

the bake element went out in SPECTACULAR fashion- taking out about 6-7 inches of the heating element which dropped into the bottom of the oven.

Oven elements frequently fail that way. It is not unusual.

LINK > Appliancre411 : FAQ : How do I test an electric stove element?

As far as I know, or can see, this model doesn’t have a thermal fuse

The wiring diagram does show a high limit thermostat but not wired between just the bake element. If it tripped I think other functions would possibly stop at the same time. I am not certain where it is located. If you wanted to test it anyway it is possibly on the back.

Hio Limit Switch

Whirlpool 74008715 Switch, Thermal Limiter (AP4097237) - AppliancePartsPros.com

Switch, thermal limiter 74008715 / AP4097237 made by Whirlpool

click.linksynergy.com

I got the control board and installed it, ... So [then] I checked the bake element, and this is when I found that it was missing a large burnt out section.

It may be possible the shorted element damaged the refurbished control when it was powered up. The only way to tell would be to determine which wires at the control power the bake element and make sure it is switching power to the element right at the control terminals.

* Testing on a 'live' appliance can be dangerous. If you are unfamiliar with safety precautions, it should be avoided.

There might also be a possibility the control was still defective when you got it. That's why technicians try to avoid such services as they can lead to double and triple checking your work which is costly $$$ for professionals!

Good luck double checking your work.

Dan O.

 

[Schmoe]

Hi Dan. Thanks for being the old one willing to wade into the weeds with me on this one

Oven elements frequently fail that way. It is not unusual.

LINK > Appliancre411 : FAQ : How do I test an electric stove element?

Yeah. I just meant the sparks flying from the top of the oven as the control board blew out along with the lower bake element. The "fireworks" and popping sound scared the crap out of my girlfriend

The wiring diagram does show a high limit thermostat but not wired between just the bake element. If it tripped I think other functions would possibly stop at the same time. I am not certain where it is located. If you wanted to test it anyway it is possibly on the back.

Hio Limit Switch

Whirlpool 74008715 Switch, Thermal Limiter (AP4097237) - AppliancePartsPros.com

Switch, thermal limiter 74008715 / AP4097237 made by Whirlpool

click.linksynergy.com

I took a longer look at the wiring diagram and I saw what you were referring to- the temperature limit switch that runs from "black" pin 3 on the control board. I can even find the part in a parts list for this model.
MER5755QAW Cabinet Section- It's Part 18

But, FOR THE LIFE OF ME- I just CANNOT find this switch! I have looked over the entire back inch-by inch, and even tried tracing the wires... it just doesn't seem to be there. Is there ANY other possible location that this switch might be located?

 

[Dan O.]

I just meant the sparks flying from the top of the oven as the control board blew out along with the lower bake element.

Such a display is more common from the oven element.

The wiring diagram with the parts list shows the Hi Limit in pretty close proximity to the main terminal block and also shows it connected to red wires on both sides. If the wiring diagram is at all accurate, you can try tracing the red wires from there.

You could also check the range's actual wiring diagram to see if it is the same.

Dan O.

 

[Schmoe]

Just wanted to update this- turns out the refurbished oven control board was bad. Luckily the place I bought it from was pretty stand-up about it. They sent out a new board for me to try which immediately fixed the problem.

Still not sure WHERE that thermal fuse is that is listed on both the wiring diagram and in the parts list. I traced the wires, and there just does NOT appear to be one in there... Maybe old documentation? Or maybe someone just flat-out removed it. Who knows?

Either way- oven is working great again now.

 

[Dan O.]

Still not sure WHERE that thermal fuse is that is listed on both the wiring diagram and in the parts list

I can only go by the information supplied in the parts list. The wiring diagram that comes in the appliance will be most accurate for that appliance as last minute design changes may not be reflected in the more general parts list.

 Or maybe someone just flat-out removed it.

That's possible too.

 

turns out the refurbished oven control board was bad

I'm glad you were able to figure it out. BTW That's the main reason technicians avoid remanufactured (and non-OEM) parts. They can cost you more in time and money than you can charge a customer for.


Thanks for the followup.

Dan O.