FIXED MET3800XW0 Maytag laundry center dryer not heating

Hoser

Premium Member
Joined
May 9, 2019
Messages
6
Location
Syracuse, NY
Model Number
MET3800XW0
Brand
Maytag
Age
6-10 years
Looking for an assist. I have replaced the element, tstat and fuse in the dryer a couple days ago because of no heat at the element. It worked for 1 load and now no heat again. Have 120 volts at each of the element leads and 120 volts at each fuse, tstat and high limit. The only place I don't have any voltage is at the 2 purple wires coming out of the timer to the high limit and don't know if I should. Don't want to buy a 120 timer and just change parts. Any ideas?
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
100,644
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Thanks bigbuck for posting the tech data sheet!

Have 120 volts at each of the element leads
That's good but when you put your meter leads on each element terminal at the same time, what does your meter read? It should read 240 volts.

Jake
 

Hoser

Premium Member
Joined
May 9, 2019
Messages
6
Location
Syracuse, NY
Checked this morning by touching each lead on the tester to each separate coil spade connector + one side and - on the other. Get a zero reading.
 

Hoser

Premium Member
Joined
May 9, 2019
Messages
6
Location
Syracuse, NY
Unhooked the solid red lead and have 120. The red and white lead has 0. So traced it back and have 120 on 1 side of high limit and 0 coming out. Guess I found the problem, the brand new high limit is bad. Does that sound correct?
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
100,644
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
No, that's not how it works.

Test across the hi-limit thermostat for 120 volts.

If you get 120 volts, The first thing I always do is use my multimeter to do a volt test at the dryer terminal block, where the power cord connects to it.

Unplug your dryer before taking off the metal access cover that covers the terminal block, then once that cover is off, then plug the dryer in and make sure your getting 230-240 volts at the terminal block in the back of your dryer. The outer wires are hot, middle wire is neutral. So put your volt meter probes on each of the two outer wires at the terminal block and see what your meter reads, you should get 230-240 volts between the two outer wires on the terminal block.

Let us know what you find.

Jake
 

Hoser

Premium Member
Joined
May 9, 2019
Messages
6
Location
Syracuse, NY
Hey Jake - I have 240 at the block. Jumpered the wire to eliminate that high limit cut off and started the dryer, the element heated right up and seemed to work. Don't seem to get contuniity across that high limit.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
100,644
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
I thought you said you already replaced that thermostat in your first post? That's why I assumed it was good.:)

I would of had you ohm test that thermostat for continuity, but since you said you replaced it I didn't.:)

OK, so then you will just need that thermostat.

Here it is for your model:
High Limit Thermostat WP3390291


The main reason that thermostat blows out is air flow restrictions in your exhaust hose that goes to the outside of your home, lint build-up over the years effects the air flow, also go outside and check your dryer vent, that can clog up too.

Jake
 

Hoser

Premium Member
Joined
May 9, 2019
Messages
6
Location
Syracuse, NY
Thanks for your time and help. I did replace it and it seems to be faulty out of the package. The unit is set up in an outdoor laundry center with only a 15" exhaust that is really clean. Just think I got a bad one. Thank you again.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
100,644
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Ok, got it!

Thanks for the update!

Jake
 
Top