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FIXED MFI2569VEM Maytag Fridge Is Way Too Cold - Freezing Food and Drinks

firefox15

Premium Member
Joined
Feb 10, 2015
Messages
11
Location
Perrysburg
Model Number
MFI2569VEM
Brand
Maytag
Age
6-10 years
I've really tried to do my homework with this issue, but I feel like I'm not sure where to go next. Basically, over the past few weeks, I've noticed my fridge getting progressively colder and more and more items freezing. At this point, many items on the bottom shelves are freezing. I've turned up the fridge to the maximum allowed which is 46.

The thermistor appeared to be reading correctly. Service Test 141 usually showed the fridge somewhere in the 35-40 range, never much closer than five degrees from where I set it. A glass of water set on the top shelf usually measured five degrees colder or so than the thermistor, and another glass on the bottom shelf would usually be five degrees or so below that.

To be safe, I cut the thermistor out and measured the resistance in a variety of climates, and it seemed to be spot on. I was getting around 11k at room temp which would be around 68 F in my house. In water around 40 F, I was getting around 25k. When I put it in the freezer (which was 3 F before I cut power to it for an hour to do the work), I was getting around 75k.

I checked the damper, and I'm able to verify that it is closing and opening within the service tolerance of eight seconds. I also confirmed with a mirror that I can see it closing, so nothing appears to be broken. I also vacuumed out all the dust and dog hair from the coils at the bottom, but I didn't really expect that to do anything.

Any ideas what I check next? Could it be the control board? I've read about this issue with this fridge on half a dozen threads on this website, and it looks like it is almost always the fresh food thermistor, but mine appears to be testing fine. Any chance it is still bad? Any suggestions would be appreciated.
 

firefox15

Premium Member
Joined
Feb 10, 2015
Messages
11
Location
Perrysburg
Is there a way to know which version of the fridge I have? My data plate doesn't seem to end in a number.

Capture.JPG

In your opinion, should I just replace the board at this point? Is it easy enough to get to it, or should I just call a service tech at this point? It's obviously a pretty expensive part, so I wouldn't want to replace it if it is something simple. Could this model also have the ice maker air sealing issues and I need to replace that?
 

rickgburton

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The board is on the back of the machine. You will need to get behind it and unplug the machine first. If the thermistor checks good the only thing left is the control board. I've had to replace it for the same issue. Is that the model tag on the machine? I've not seen one without a number before. Ask the parts supplier about it when you talk to them. If you purchase a part from a link on this site and it doesn't fix the problem, you can return it for a full refund less shipping.
 

firefox15

Premium Member
Joined
Feb 10, 2015
Messages
11
Location
Perrysburg
The board is on the back of the machine. You will need to get behind it and unplug the machine first. If the thermistor checks good the only thing left is the control board. I've had to replace it for the same issue. Is that the model tag on the machine? I've not seen one without a number before. Ask the parts supplier about it when you talk to them. If you purchase a part from a link on this site and it doesn't fix the problem, you can return it for a full refund less shipping.
Thanks for the clarification and reassurance that a bad control board can cause this issue. Yes, sir, that is the model tag from the inside of the machine. No number in sight. According to the serial number, it was manufactured mid-2008, but I'm not sure what models were made at that time. Regardless, if I can order it and return it if it doesn't work, it seems to be low risk. Should I take out the original board first and make sure the numbers match up since the model can't be specifically identified, or are there no marks on the board to compare? Thanks so much for your help!
 

rickgburton

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I looked up the models ending in 2 and 3 and they use the same board so you should be good. You should still mention it to the parts people when you order it. You should measure the thermistor/sensor at the board to eliminate a pinched wire or bad connection. Make sure the wires are not backing out of the connector. Moisture can cause corrosion on any wire ends and increase the resistance. If the replacement board doesn't look the same as the original board, just confirm the part number. It may be an updated board. The connections should be the same. If it comes with instructions, read them first.
 

firefox15

Premium Member
Joined
Feb 10, 2015
Messages
11
Location
Perrysburg
I looked up the models ending in 2 and 3 and they use the same board so you should be good. You should still mention it to the parts people when you order it. You should measure the thermistor/sensor at the board to eliminate a pinched wire or bad connection. Make sure the wires are not backing out of the connector. Moisture can cause corrosion on any wire ends and increase the resistance. If the replacement board doesn't look the same as the original board, just confirm the part number. It may be an updated board. The connections should be the same. If it comes with instructions, read them first.
Thank you. Per your recommendation, I measured the thermistors at the board to eliminate the wiring as an issue. I then read the temperature of the thermistors in the service menu when I turned it back on. I received the following results:

Fresh food thermistor: 38 F - 27k ohms
Freezer thermistor: 7 F - 64k ohms
Ice box thermistor: 22 F - 40k ohms​

The tech sheet makes it sound like all of those are within spec and what I would expect to see at the respective temperatures, but let me know if you think differently. Oddly enough, when I was in the service menu last night and shut the door to exit the menu like I have many times, the entire display went blank for ten seconds, and when it came back, it was flashing and needed reprogrammed. I think this further supports your theory of a bad board.

I did see that the back of my fridge has the model number with a trailing zero, but it looks like it is just 1-4 and 10 that are valid endings, so I'm not sure what is up with that. Regardless, the number on the board is 12920721, and W10310240 is listed as a replacement part for that, so I think I'm good. Unless you say differently, I'm going to go ahead and order that board. Thanks again for all your help.
 

rickgburton

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firefox15 said:
.....the entire display went blank for ten seconds, and when it came back, it was flashing and needed reprogrammed.
Be sure to check the connector under the door hinge cover. The water line is also there and if it leaks, corrosion on the wire ends in the connector will form and cause both those problems. I also found this service flash. See if it pertains to your machine:
 

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firefox15

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Feb 10, 2015
Messages
11
Location
Perrysburg
Be sure to check the connector under the door hinge cover. The water line is also there and if it leaks, corrosion on the wire ends in the connector will form and cause both those problems. I also found this service flash. See if it pertains to your machine:
Thanks for the additional information. I pulled off the cover, and the wire harness and water line look good. No signs of corrosion on the wires or the connector, and I don't see any trace of new or old water leaks.

I did notice that my fridge is mentioned in the service flash. Would it be possible for me just to trash the ice and turn off the ice maker to test if the ice maker is leaking the cold air, or would that not be sufficient?
 

rickgburton

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firefox15 said:
Would it be possible for me just to trash the ice and turn off the ice maker to test if the ice maker is leaking the cold air, or would that not be sufficient?
I've run into this before with service flashes. The short answer is yes but how long, I don't know. It's almost a catch 22 situation. If the problem goes away with the ice maker off, that's the problem. If the problem doesn't go away, it could be either one still. I've changed out a lot of boards on that style machine (Maytag, Whirlpool, and KitchenAid) and I have not had to replace any ice room seals yet. (I'm going to regret saying that now, I just know it!....LOL).
 

firefox15

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Location
Perrysburg
I've run into this before with service flashes. The short answer is yes but how long, I don't know. It's almost a catch 22 situation. If the problem goes away with the ice maker off, that's the problem. If the problem doesn't go away, it could be either one still. I've changed out a lot of boards on that style machine (Maytag, Whirlpool, and KitchenAid) and I have not had to replace any ice room seals yet. (I'm going to regret saying that now, I just know it!....LOL).
Thanks very much for your help. I have a board on order. If that doesn't fix it, I'll move on to the ice seal. Thanks again!
 

firefox15

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Messages
11
Location
Perrysburg
I've run into this before with service flashes. The short answer is yes but how long, I don't know. It's almost a catch 22 situation. If the problem goes away with the ice maker off, that's the problem. If the problem doesn't go away, it could be either one still. I've changed out a lot of boards on that style machine (Maytag, Whirlpool, and KitchenAid) and I have not had to replace any ice room seals yet. (I'm going to regret saying that now, I just know it!....LOL).
Hey Rick, I'm sorry to keep bothering you, but would you have general instructions on how to get to the damper to check it? Very recently, I've been having issues manually opening and closing it. The service menu sometimes shows all dashes instead of -CL or -OP, and I can hear it struggling. I'm guessing it could be related to the board's damper relay not working correctly or something, but since I need to wait a little bit for the board to arrive, I wanted to get a closer look at it.

It looks like it is behind the ice maker, but I'm not sure the best way to get to it. Do I just remove everything from the box until I'm back there, or is there any easier way? There appear to be three 1/4 hex bolts and a plastic clip of some kind that hold the ice maker assembly and whatever else is back there, but it still doesn't seem to want to slide out. I'm guessing I just need to pull harder in case some water froze the assembly in place, but I didn't want to do that and break it without checking with you.
 

rickgburton

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It's not a bother at all. Remove the ice bin by depressing the push button on the side of the ice bin cover and slide the bin out of the ice box compartment. Remove the ice maker wire harness cover by inserting a screwdriver in the slot and push the locking lever behind the cover down and then pull the cover to release it. Disconnect the ice maker wire harness. Release the locking lever and remove the auger assembly. Remove the screw holding the ice maker to the impinge and then remove the ice maker.

Press tabs in on both sides of the fan shroud and remove the shroud. The damper should slide out.
 

firefox15

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Location
Perrysburg
*Sigh* Well, I thought I had it, but no dice. I noticed that when I turned the ice maker off, the temperature was right on the money after a few hours. There was only a one or two degree difference from the top to the bottom shelf, and it was exactly at the set point. I went ahead and ordered "Ice Bin Cover Assembly and Air Damper Seal Service Kit, Part # W10295078," and I left the ice maker off while I waited for it too arrive. As expected, the temperature was perfect.

I switched it out yesterday and turned on the ice maker, but everything is still freezing. The fridge seems to *know* it is too cold since the damper is closed, and the 141 service test is showing below the set point. I also switched out the control board, but there was no change. I checked the damper by actually removing it and watching it open/close with 121, and it looks fine.

I guess I'm not really sure what to do at this point. There *does* appear to be a large amount of air coming from the flap where the ice dispenser is, but I'm guessing that is normal as it is just a plastic flap without a gasket or anything. I may try to cover the entire dispenser area with a towel and duct tape or something to see if I can isolate the issue. Anyway, any ideas you have are appreciated. I'm sorry this is turning into the refrigerator from hell. LOL :wall:
 

rickgburton

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firefox15 said:
I left the ice maker off while I waited for it too arrive. As expected, the temperature was perfect.....The fridge seems to *know* it is too cold since the damper is closed...There *does* appear to be a large amount of air coming from the flap..
I think that tells the whole story. I don't think they have all the kinks of this one yet. I usually get several calls a year like this. Mostly for blocked drain lines. No matter what you do, it doesn't fix it.
 

firefox15

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Location
Perrysburg
I think that tells the whole story. I don't think they have all the kinks of this one yet. I usually get several calls a year like this. Mostly for blocked drain lines. No matter what you do, it doesn't fix it.
Shoot. Well, I do appreciate all your help even if it doesn't end the way I wanted. I'll see if I can isolate the issue, but I'm not too optimistic. Does physically turning the ice maker off change anything at all with the cooling system and what fans run, temperature cut offs, etc., or does it simply control the physical operation of the ice maker like loading water and pushing out the ice cubes? I feel like there is a link I'm not understanding since Maytag says that not turning off the ice maker when not connected to water will cause my symptoms (mine is connected to water, obviously). I would think that there just wouldn't be ice if it weren't connected to water, but somehow that impacts fridge temperature.

I find it interesting that when the ice maker is off the ice maker can be full of ice, the ice box thermistor reads the same temp as with it on, and I can hear the ice maker fan running, but for whatever reason it does not impact the temp in the fridge. The moment I physically turn on the ice maker, the temperature plummets. Just to try to isolate it, I taped over the ice dispenser interior door and where the ice bin joins to the housing with a ton of duct tape and verified that any air leakage felt non-existent, but the temp was still low when the ice maker was on. I think I'll start blaming it on gremlins. . . .
 

rickgburton

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firefox15

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Perrysburg
Yes, sir. To summarize, new ice bin cover, new damper, and new control board. Thermistors all test within range directly at the control board. Fridge is only too cold when ice maker is on. Anything else I can try, or is it finished? I'm not opposed to calling someone to have a look at it if they can fix it, but I don't really know what they are going to do that we haven't already tried.
 

rickgburton

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Do you adjust the temperature settings with the ice maker on and off? I can't think of anything else. If I do, I'll post it here.
 

JRock411

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Mar 5, 2015
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Location
canada
Im also having the exact issue with my Maytag MFI2569VEM1. Need help as well. Has anyone got a fix for this yet?
 
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