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FIXED MFI2569VEM1 Fridge Freezing/Ice Maker not getting water

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chachanator

Premium Member
Joined
Apr 19, 2021
Messages
9
Location
Houston
Model Number
MFI2569VEM1
Brand
Maytag
Age
6-10 years
I have a Maytag MFI2669VEM1 refrigerator. The issue I'm having is the refrigerator is freezing up and the ice maker was not producing ice. Looking online I found that if the ice maker is turned on but water is not connected (my water is connected) to the fridge it would cause a similar issue with the fridge freezing up. When I turn the ice maker off everything functions fine except obviously the ice maker. I've checked the water line from the water inlet valve to the ice maker. No clogs or leaks. Fridge is only too cold when ice maker is on, other wise it operates normally.

What does pushing the switch to the ice maker on or off have to do with anything in regards to the refrigerator temperature? The ice maker section is still cold and still holds ice so it doesn't appear to be an issue with cold air from the ice maker getting into the refrigerator.

Any suggestions what to check or what it might be? I found a similar thread on this site from a few years ago but it never looked like a solution was found. Firefox15 had replaced the ice bin cover, new damper and a new control board.

Regards,

Chris

 

Jake

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Hi Chris,

Here's that thread you are referring to:
You are correct, it didn't fix @firefox15 refrigerator, but it did fix @Tspevacek refrigerator in post #22.

I did locate the service bulletin on this, but it only applies if your ice maker is ON and NOT connected to a water supply line.

CUSTOMER CONCERN: Refrigerator compartment temperature too cold.
CAUSE: Ice maker is not connected to water and the ice maker on/off switch is in the on position. Even though no water is supplied, the Ice maker continues to try to make ice which causes the Ice compartment temperature to remain at 15° F (-10° C). Over a long period of time combined with minimal entry into the refrigerator compartment, temperatures may gradually drop below the set temperature in the refrigerator compartment.

CORRECTION: Shut off the ice maker on/off switch or connect ice maker to a water supply.

If your ice maker is connected to a water supply, then you have a different problem.

Is your ice maker working normal with the ice maker ON?

This is another service bulletin for that Cover Kit, I posted in post #2 here:
But Larry never came back to update us. 😭

Jake
 
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chachanator

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Messages
9
Location
Houston
I believe the issue I am having is more similar to @firefox15. @Tspevacek I believe had the fridge not connected to water and the ice maker ON.

In my case the water IS connected and when in the ice maker is in the ON position the fridge has excessive freezing. If I turn the ice maker to the OFF position everything operates normally. I don't think it's an issue with the cover as when in the ON position the ice maker never seems to receive water. Your explanation on why not receiving water causes excessive freezing makes sense and is very helpful thanks.

I'm curious what tells the ice maker to send water because that step seems to be missing. What do you think about the water inlet valve potentially being bad? Is there a good way to check these? Seems to be one of the things @firefox15 did not replace. Water does come out the front of the fridge no issue though. For reference this issue started after the freeze we had here in Texas where the power was on and off for long periods of time. Not sure if that helps with trouble shooting.

Thanks,

Chris
 

Jake

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The ice maker itself sends a 120 volt signal for the water to fill the ice maker tray when the ice maker cycles.

Is no water filling your ice maker tray?

Jake
 

chachanator

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Messages
9
Location
Houston
That is correct, no water ever makes it to the ice tray. I left the ice maker in the ON position for about 12 hours and checked every now and then, no water. I can tell the fridge is starting to freeze up again as well. Prior to leaving the ice maker in the ON position I had removed the water line going from the water valve to the ice maker and blew air through it to make sure it wasn’t clogged.

Chris
 

Jake

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Ok Chris, then its either your ice maker is bad and not sending the 120 volt signal to the water inlet valve, or the wiring to the water inlet valve is bad, or the water inlet valve is getting the 120 volt signal from the ice maker, but the ice maker side solenoid is not opening up when the ice maker sends 120 volts to it, thus you get no water into the ice maker tray.

You will need a multimeter to volt test

You can force cycle the ice maker and measure the voltage at the water valve solenoid at the end of the harvest cycle. If your meter indicates 120 Volts AC for about 7 seconds, replace the water valve. If your meter indicates less than 100 Volts AC ice maker is the problem.

Read post #5 on HOW TO JUMP T and H to do a FORCE CYCLE in this thread:

Just remove the electrical connector from the ice maker solenoid side of the water inlet valve, then put your meter probes in that electrical connector, then cycle the ice maker and watch the meter to see if you get 120 volts towards the end of the ice maker cycle.

Here's the water inlet valve for your model(There is a video that shows you how to access the water inlet valve inside the refrigerator section):
Water Inlet Valve 67006322

The smaller water line tube goes to the ice maker. So the ice maker side solenoid is the MAROON colored one, put your meter probes in the electrical connector that goes to the MAROON colored solenoid.

Here's the ice maker for your model:
WPW10190981 Icemaker


To see if the wire harness is bad, the last 7-10 seconds of the harvest cycle is the fill cycle. Insert your meter leads into holes "V" and "N" and watch for 120 VAC at the end of the harvest cycle. If the ice maker doesn't start a harvest cycle or if you don't have 120 VAC during the fill cycle, replace the ice maker.

(click to enlarge)
New style IM.jpg

If you get 120 volts between holes "V" and "N" on the ice maker, BUT not 120 volts at the electrical connectors that connect to the MAROON colored solenoid on the water inlet valve, then your wire harness is the problem.

Here's the ice maker wiring harness for your model:
W11256689 Harns-Wire


Jake
 

chachanator

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Messages
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Location
Houston
Thank you Jake for all the information. I'll try to find time this weekend to do some trouble shooting and keep this thread updated.

Chris
 

Jake

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Ok Chris, sounds good, yes keep us posted.:)

Jake
 

chachanator

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Messages
9
Location
Houston
Alright Jake, I had time to take a look at that ice maker tonight and here is what I found.

I connected a wire between "T" and "H" and then hit the door switch. At that point point I heard a very faint motor noise and that white disk (see picture, it says "DO NOT ROTATE MANUALLY") rotates clockwise then counterclockwise maybe 1/16". I'm pretty sure it should rotate 360º correct? Measuring the voltage on "N" and "L" I get 120 Volts. To me it seems like the ice maker is refusing to go into harvest mode. I never get any voltage on "V" and "N" however I suspect it's never getting to the fill cycle.

Any thoughts? Replace ice maker or is there more testing I can do?

Thanks,

Chris
 

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Jake

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Ok Chris, yes the WHITE GEAR should keep turning all the way around, since its not, then the ice maker itself is the problem. Replace the ice maker and you should be back in business.

Jake
 

chachanator

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Location
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Happy to report ice maker is installed and producing ice. Freezing in the fridge has stopped. Seems to be producing ice slowly but perhaps it will ramp up after it gets going.

Thanks for all the help Jake.

Regards,

Chris Charba
 

Jake

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Excellent Chis, glad to hear the new ice maker fixed it.(y)

Yes, give it time and ice production will ramp up, also the colder the freezer is the more ice you get too, they work hand in hand.

Thanks for the update!

Jake
 
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