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FIXED MGDC200XW0 Maytag Centennial Gas Dryer...runs but no heat

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Steve Lucero

Premium Member
Joined
Mar 3, 2014
Messages
17
Location
Ca
Model Number
MGDC200XW0
Brand
Maytag
Age
6-10 years
Removed thermal fuse and tested for continuity; no continuity. Looking to pick up replacement WP3392519

In meantime, I bridged the wires that connect to the thermal fuse to briefly test if the dryer would heat up, but didn't. Is that an indicator or another problem?

When I ran the dryer with and without the thermal fuse (bridged wires), I didn't hear the normal clicking I hear before the flame ignites.

I was checking through peep hole of front cover and there was no glow from heating element.

Could I be having multiple problems or does the machine just not run correctly if the thermal fuse is bad or removed with bridged leads?

Thanks.
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
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Messages
40,262
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
Set the machine on timed dry and select high heat. Measure the voltage across the two wires going to the gas valve assembly. It should be 120 VAC.
 

Steve Lucero

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Mar 3, 2014
Messages
17
Location
Ca
I'll need a little bit if a visual on this. I have the machine open and was looking to check igniter. So I'm here (see pic). Am I looking to test in this area near the gas valve assembly or back side where I disconnected the fuse?

Thanks.
 

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Steve Lucero

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Okay, got distracted earlier. With this access, the drum is out. The same colored light blue wire is what's running to the thermal fuse. The test you're suggesting is to plug in for power, keep leads that run to fuse bridged, turn time knob to high heat, then test for power to light blue and white with red stripe wires?
 

Steve Lucero

Premium Member
Joined
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Messages
17
Location
Ca
I got a replacement fuse today and tested. Confirmed it was good and installed. Machine still running like before, but still no heat.

I checked for voltage at gas valve, but no voltage found. I set dial to high heat (not running) at black and blue leads. The white with red colored wires (2), another straight white, and a purple all come together and turn straight black. Light blue is on it's own.

See pics of wires.

Could my problem be up top? Timer switch?
 

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Steve Lucero

Premium Member
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Mar 3, 2014
Messages
17
Location
Ca
I think I found my problem. Found no continuity at the igniter thermal fuse.

This one here in the picture that's unplugged.

Would this cause no power to lower end? And no heat?
 

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Steve Lucero

Premium Member
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Mar 3, 2014
Messages
17
Location
Ca
You need to start the dryer.
Thanks. As I mentioned in the last reply, the igniter thermal fuse had no continuity. I learned there are two thermal fuses, one encased in a white plastic housing that looks like a small submarine, or suppository 🤣🤣, and the second is the igniter thermal fuse. The white plastic fuse didn't have continuity and replaced that one. Last night I figured out the second fuse for the igniter. There was no continuity on the second fuse. I bridged the wires for the igniter thermal fuse that sits next to the high temp sensor (?) and momentarily ran the machine....the igniter started up right away.

I've placed an order for the igniter thermal fuse, but wondering why it failed. I try to keep the build up of lint to a minimum and clean out the accordion tubing a few times a year and didn't really find any significant buildup. It is an 8 year old machine and it's used daily.
 

Steve Lucero

Premium Member
Joined
Mar 3, 2014
Messages
17
Location
Ca
Coming back to close out the post. The igniter thermal fuse was the problem. Once replaced, heat was back and working as it should.

I learned a few things along the way; there is more than one fuse, checking for continuity on fuses, igniter, flame sensor, gas valve coils, heat sensors, and testing for voltage.

I appreciate the replies and hope that my experience can help someone else.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
114,722
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Just so others know too--->That ignitor thermal fuse is called the thermal cut-off.

Here it is for your model, in case others need it too: Thermal Cut Off W11050897

Jake
 
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