• ** REMEMBER! **The microwave can still shock you even unplugged!!

    ALWAYS discharge the high-voltage capacitor first if you even think your hands will come close to any HIGH VOLTAGE components.

    Jeff mentions this: Anything in the high voltage ( magnetron, capacitor, diode, wires to and from ):
    ...Use a metal ( not the shiny chrome type ) screw driver with a insulated handle to short across ( touch both at the same time ) the terminals of the high voltage capacitor to discharge it.

    From Jeff's site: http://www.applianceaid.com/component-testing.php

    Jake
  • Please note, some of the links on our site are affiliate links (Learn More)

Microwave/Oven Combo, KEMC308KSS01, having the same issue with the Microwave "DOOR" on display when press START.

JamesChan

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Location
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Hi JamesChan,

I have the exact same problem with my Whirlpool (WOC54EC0AS01) combo and in the same boat - replacing the
switches (I only have 2) has not solved the issue. Just like usawsn, my old and new switches test fine.
Details in my thread here

Hope both of us get some solution from the experts here.

Hi lanb, thank you for reaching out. i went back and checked all connections and everything look good, tight and snug. i was hoping i had the same result as usawsn but no luck.

Hi Jake and/or Rick, any idea? what else can we do to troubleshoot and fix "DOOR" on Display panel? how do i test each connections and confirm it is good. what else can we do?

Any help and support would be greatly appreciated. I'm including pics for your view.
 

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rickgburton

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how do i test each connections and confirm it is good. what else can we do?
Disconnect and the reconnect the connectors on the board. That might fix it. If not the board doesn't see the switch is closed. Replace the board.
 

JamesChan

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Messages
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Location
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Disconnect and the reconnect the connectors on the board. That might fix it. If not the board doesn't see the switch is closed. Replace the board.

Hi Rick, thanks for your reply. Which connection do I need to try to reconnect? There are many connections coming into the board? Thanks in advance!
 

lanb

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Messages
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USA
Hi JamesChan,

I just came to post that my problem is resolved.

It was actually a door switch issue as originally suspected.
Apparently, my oven combo also has 3 switches just like the Kitchenaid.
My wife was the one who thought about this and made me open the left side to check.
Hurray for smart wives !!

After removing the left two panels, there was a third switch which tested just at 005 when closed
while the good ones tested at 001 when closed.
Replaced the faulty switch and voila, the closed door issue got resolved.

Moral of the story -
1) All of these microwaves have 3 of these switches even if the Repairclinic video only shows 2.
2) These switches seem to be very sensitive, a reading of 005 vs. 001 is bad.

I would suggest that you also make sure that the 3 switches test at 001 with a Multimeter

Good luck and keep us posted !
 
Last edited:

JamesChan

Premium Member
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Aug 18, 2020
Messages
20
Location
Minnesota
Hi JamesChan,

I just came to post that my problem is resolved.

It was actually a door switch issue as originally suspected.
Apparently, my oven combo also has 3 switches just like the Kitchenaid.
My wife was the one who thought about this and made me open the left side to check.
Hurray for smart wives !!

After removing the left two panels, there was a third switch which tested just at 005 when closed
while the good ones tested at 001 when closed.
Replaced the faulty switch and voila, the closed door issue got resolved.

Moral of the story -
1) All of these microwaves have 3 of these switches even if the Repairclinic video only shows 2.
2) These switches seem to be very sensitive, a reading of 005 vs. 001 is bad.

I would suggest that you also make sure that the 3 switches test at 001 with's a Multimeter

Good luck and keep us posted !

Thanks lanb for for posting and happy for your positive result. Now, it's my turn to find a fix just like you and usawsn. :)

I will try to reconnect wires at the board as Rick suggested. If that didn't work, I will need to test all 3 switches like you.

I have Multimeter, would you please help explain how do I test switches with Multimeter? Do you test them while they are connected? A step by step instructions would be helpful and greatly appreciated. I wish my wife can help me solve this problem. :) Instead, she told me to fix it soon or throw it away as it is sitting in our ways. :)

I'm try to be a DIY person and learn a lot from this forum and youtube in general. I like to do whatever I can to solve this problem before I gave up and call a repair man. :)
 

JamesChan

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All of them.

hi Rick, I just pulled out and reconnected all wires on the board and got same result.

I like to test my switches and awaiting instruction on how to do that.

I like to reconnect or maybe replacing the line fuse too if necessary? Attaching pic, is it the line fuse we're talking about? how do i take it out if i want to replace it? Thanks in advance.
 

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lanb

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Hi JamesChan,

You don't need to have the switch connected to test. You can take it out and do the "continuity" test using the multimeter.
The repairclinic website has a few videos showing how to test - Check related expert content link

I would suggest testing the old switches that you took out as well so you can compare the readings.

You are basically looking for 0 or 1 (no resistance) when the switch is closed. Anything above seems to be an issue
based on my and usawsn's experience.

Good luck !
 

JamesChan

Premium Member
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Messages
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Location
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Hi JamesChan,

You don't need to have the switch connected to test. You can take it out and do the "continuity" test using the multimeter.
The repairclinic website has a few videos showing how to test - Check related expert content link

I would suggest testing the old switches that you took out as well so you can compare the readings.

You are basically looking for 0 or 1 (no resistance) when the switch is closed. Anything above seems to be an issue
based on my and usawsn's experience.

Good luck !

hi lanb, i just tested all 3 of my old switches when they actuated/closed. All 3 switches reading at either 0.2 or 0.3 is that mean it's bad, right? the video indicated that it should be reading at 0.

Now, can i test my new switches in the microwave right now or do i need to pull them all out. if possible, i like to test them while they're connected. it is not easy to connect them on the right side of my microwave since there is so little room to work with. Please advise. Thanks in advance!
 

lanb

Premium Member
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Jun 10, 2020
Messages
19
Location
USA
Yes, you should be able to test them in place as long as you can get the Multimeter probes in and activate the switch
manually or by closing the door.

I would make sure the power to the unit is turned off as a precaution :)
 

JamesChan

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Messages
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Location
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After checking everything suggested here, i went ahead and pull out the fuse and tested it. it appear to be bad. Went to home depot and got new fuse. Put it in and bingo it was working.

Put the microwave back in the built-in cabinet but found out afterward that i forgot to put left cover back on. Pull the microwave back out so i can put the cover back on. While i had the microwave out, the control panel also laying on top of microwave. I happened to test the microwave one more time before i put it back in the cabinet. But surprisingly i don't know what happened, when i pressed START button, it created spark right around the two holes where the switches were. After that, pressing START gave me the same problem with DOOR display on controller.

I checked the fuse again and found that it burned out. I thought good, it was just the fuse. Put new fuse in and still have the same problem. I checked the switches and they're all good.

What should I do now? New fuse, new switches and still same problem.

Oh Gosh, I thought I had it fix but back to square one now.

Please help. Anyone? Any Idea? Please...Please... Please. So frustrated with this.
 

JamesChan

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I guess I screwed up and no more help. :) I like DIY if doable but seems to be impossible for me now. Maybe, time for us to call the repairman.
 

rickgburton

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JamesChan

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On some machines there's just so much you can do online

Start at that point where it was working.

Maybe you're right.

Rick, thanks for your reply.

We had it working at one time but before we put it back in the built-in cabinet, we tested it one last time and it created spark with little smoke. Found out that the line fuse blown and replaced with good one. Pulled out all 3 switches and tested good.

Wondering if it might have short circuit somewhere?
Is there other fuses to check beside line fuse?
Anything at all we need to check before calling repairman? I felt like we're almost there and still something we might have missed?

Any help and idea would be greatly appreciated? before we give up.

Calling Repairman might be good but I feel like we failed. Don't like to fail if there is something I can do about it.

Thanks in advance!
 

rickgburton

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Pulled out all 3 switches and tested good.
I know I mentioned this at least once in he last 64 posts, that's the wrong way to test the switches. Remove the wires from the switches and test them by opening and closing the door.
 

JamesChan

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I know I mentioned this at least once in he last 64 posts, that's the wrong way to test the switches. Remove the wires from the switches and test them by opening and closing the door.

Rick, just want to clarify, are you saying that we should test while the switches are in the switch holders? just remove the wires from them and test?
Isn't that the same when we had them out and manually actuated/closed the switch?
 

rickgburton

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test while the switches are in the switch holders?
That's correct.
Isn't that the same when we had them out and manually actuated/closed the switch?
Nope. Read post #60. The monitor door switch is a deadman switch. It's designed to keep the microwave from working if the door is open by shorting L1 and N together. If the primary switch doesn't open before the monitor switch closes, the fuse blows. Make sure you have the switches wired correctly and the wires are on the correct switch terminals.
 
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