Model 110.94832201 Bad Fuse Next To Thermal Fuse

Status
Not open for further replies.

EasyGoing1

Member
Joined
Jun 11, 2019
Messages
12
Location
Victorville, CA
Model Number
110.94832201
Brand
Sears Kenmore
Age
6-10 years
This dryer belongs to a friend of mine. When you hit start, it doesn't do anything but the control panel works normally and the door switch works (I checked it with the multimeter). I tested the thermal fuse and it reads some ohms but when i tested the fuse next to it, its completely open ... there is no reading on the ohm meter...

But here's my question ...

This looks to be like an over current or over voltage fuse and if I simply replace it, won't whatever made it blow in the first place make the replacement fuse also blow? Is there more troubleshooting that I need to do?

Thank you,

Mike Sims
 

jeff1

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Oct 10, 2004
Messages
23,822
Location
Ontario, Canada
Hi,

Parts breakdown wouldn't work for me tonight to check your model#, I kept getting an error....the site must be having issues :(

The second item is likely NOT a fuse but a thermistor. It will be a high resistance so the scale would have t obe changed on your meter to test.

Dryer thermistor - This thermistor should read approximately 11.9K Ohms of resistance at 70 degrees Fahrenheit (21’ Celsius).

Dryer thermal fuse located on the blower housing


Power been tested to the unit?

jeff.
 

EasyGoing1

Member
Joined
Jun 11, 2019
Messages
12
Location
Victorville, CA
The second item is likely NOT a fuse but a thermistor. It will be a high resistance so the scale would have to be changed on your meter to test.

Dryer thermistor - This thermistor should read approximately 11.9K Ohms of resistance at 70 degrees Fahrenheit (21’ Celsius).
You are correct, once I got the thermistor back to my place where I have a Fluke 115 meter, I tested it and it is reading around 10.45kΩ and the room temp is around 74° so it looks like this might not be defective after all.

That one tested that it had continuity ... do I need to check its resistance value as well?

Power been tested to the unit?
Power to which unit? The dryer turns on fine and the control panel works normally. BUT, when you press start it just stares at you with this dumb look on its face ... and it does absolutely nothing ...
I checked the door switch and of the three pins on the switch, the outer two short together just fine when the button is pressed down (like it would be if the door were closed). Beyond all that I've mentioned, I've done no further troubleshooting. The dryer is at my friends house ... but I can try whatever you suggest when I go back over there tomorrow.

Thank you very much,

Mike Sims
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Messages
34,386
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
Check for 120 VAC on the electronic control board P1-5 (blk) to P1-3 (blu), P1-5 to P1-2 (wht). Press the start switch and check for 120 VAC P1-4 (lt blu) to P1-2 (wht) If the voltage is correct check the broken belt switch:
 

EasyGoing1

Member
Joined
Jun 11, 2019
Messages
12
Location
Victorville, CA
Check for 120 VAC on the electronic control board P1-5 (blk) to P1-3 (blu), P1-5 to P1-2 (wht). Press the start switch and check for 120 VAC P1-4 (lt blu) to P1-2 (wht) If the voltage is correct check the broken belt switch:
You sound very confident that after doing this, I'm going to know exactly why this thing won't start ... I like it!

So if I am not getting the voltages on the pins you mentioned, does that mean the ECB needs to be replaced?

Also, is there any kind of schematic for that control board so that I can easily locate those pins?

Thank you again for sharing your experience and helping out a complete noob to dryer troubleshooting. My expertise is in computers, networks, programming and basic electronics ... if you ever find yourself in need of my knowledge ... since you are an admin, you can access my email address, no?

Mike Sims
 
Last edited:

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Messages
34,386
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
EasyGoing1 said:
So if I am not getting the voltages on the pins you mentioned, does that mean the ECB needs to be replaced?
No, here's the pinouts:
43626
 

Attachments

jeff1

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Oct 10, 2004
Messages
23,822
Location
Ontario, Canada
Power to which unit?
The whole dryer.

Parts breakdown wouldn't work for me tonight to check your model#, I kept getting an error....the site must be having issues
I didn't know if the dryer was electric ( 2 powers ) or gas ( 1 power ).
Always best to start with the simple things.

jeff.
 

EasyGoing1

Member
Joined
Jun 11, 2019
Messages
12
Location
Victorville, CA
The whole dryer.
The dryer gets power just fine. I can even chose a dry mode ... everything works as normal until you hit the start button at which time it does nothing but stare at you. The lights stay on and everything.

I didn't know if the dryer was electric ( 2 powers ) or gas ( 1 power ).
This is a GAS dryer.

I haven't had a chance yet to get back over there and check power to those pins, but hopefully later today or tomorrow I will.
 

EasyGoing1

Member
Joined
Jun 11, 2019
Messages
12
Location
Victorville, CA
If I am not getting voltage to those pins you mentioned, then what do I need to troubleshoot next? I'd like to make sure I can get as much done as possible on my next visit since I don't go out there too often.
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Messages
34,386
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
EasyGoing1 said:
...then what do I need to troubleshoot next?
I thought I was explaining it well and the diagram I made is pretty much self-explanatory. What part is hanging you up??
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Messages
34,386
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
OK, Now I know what's hanging you up, you're not taking the time to read what I wrote. I answered that question in my first and second post so take my hand and I'll walk you through it slooooooowly ...LOL . Use the diagram of the control board in my second post for a reference .

The first measurement: P1-5 to P1-2 is supply voltage for the board. Where do we get supply voltage? If you said the wall outlet and power cord, you're correct! So if we don't have supply voltage at the board what do you think we should check first? Wall outlet and power cord. Correct again. This measurement will probably test good on your machine because you have a working User Interface (all the LEDs work)

Second measurement P1-5 to P1-3 On my diagram it says, 120 VAC = (indicates) Door switch is good. So 0 VAC would indicate the door switch is......? bad, right again!

The third measurement P1-3 to P1-4. On my diagram I show this is motor supply voltage. If your meter indicates 120 VAC for all three measurements, this is what I said in my first post:
rickgburton said:
.....If the voltage is correct check the broken belt switch:
If the voltage between P1-3 to P1-4 is 0 VAV you can deduce 120 VAC supply voltage going into the board and 0 VAC going out of the board = bad board. I sure hope this helped
 

EasyGoing1

Member
Joined
Jun 11, 2019
Messages
12
Location
Victorville, CA
OK, Now I know what's hanging you up, you're not taking the time to read what I wrote. I answered that question in my first and second post so take my hand and I'll walk you through it slooooooowly ...LOL . Use the diagram of the control board in my second post for a reference .
I apologize for not reading your post more carefully.

The first measurement: P1-5 to P1-2 is supply voltage for the board. Where do we get supply voltage? If you said the wall outlet and power cord, you're correct! So if we don't have supply voltage at the board what do you think we should check first? Wall outlet and power cord. Correct again. This measurement will probably test good on your machine because you have a working User Interface (all the LEDs work)

Second measurement P1-5 to P1-3 On my diagram it says, 120 VAC = (indicates) Door switch is good. So 0 VAC would indicate the door switch is......? bad, right again!

The third measurement P1-3 to P1-4. On my diagram I show this is motor supply voltage. If your meter indicates 120 VAC for all three measurements, this is what I said in my first post:


If the voltage between P1-3 to P1-4 is 0 VAV you can deduce 120 VAC supply voltage going into the board and 0 VAC going out of the board = bad board. I sure hope this helped
OK, so since its getting power, I already know that P1-5 to P1-2 is good, and I tested the door switch so P1-5 to P1-3 should be fine ... but P1-3 to P1-4 is the real question mark... I'm going over there today to finish troubleshooting this... I have a feeling that its a bad belt switch.

I'm assuming, however, that if the belt switch is good, and I have voltage on P1-3 to P1-4, then the motor has burnt out. Would I be correct in that assumption? I did notice that the drum took some work to rotate ... if there is something mechanically wrong with the drum ... the way its situated or something, it might have been putting a lot of drag on the motor which might cause it to burn out...?
 

EasyGoing1

Member
Joined
Jun 11, 2019
Messages
12
Location
Victorville, CA
Well, I found the problem. I got the dryer back together to a point where I could troubleshoot the voltages on the main board and when I looked at the connector that brings in power to the main board I figured it would be easier to do this from the bottom side of the board so I took it out of its plastic frame and flipped it over and immediately saw this ... its location from the top side of the board I have circled in red. Its the motor relay and it blew that lead with enough energy, that it created a water wave shaped fold in what little is left of the solder that once joined it to the PCB. Relays merely pass energy ... sometimes as a toggle but in this situation I believe its acting as a switch so the question is, what caused that kind of energy in the first place ... a dead 120V AC short would be able to do something like that which makes me wonder if the motor might be shorting out for some reason.

I took the relay out of the board and tested it and it works fine.

DryerMainBoard.png
DryerMainBoard2.png
 
Last edited:
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top