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FIXED MSB26C6MDM00 Maytag Refrigerator - ice maker not working again

digitalgimpus

Premium Member
Joined
Mar 3, 2018
Messages
15
Location
NJ
Model Number
MSB26C6MDM00
Brand
Maytag
Age
6-10 years
I have a MSB26C6MDM00 and replaced the ice maker several months ago when it stopped working. Now once again it broke.

I put it in diagnostic mode 25, used a jumper cable and saw the ice maker go through a cycle, heater seems ok, motor seems ok, I did notice no water filling. Then tried jumping L/V and heard the water valve opening. I went under the toe kick and found the water supply lines to the door. Disconnected them and tried the jumper again. The water flows when the valve is jumped from the ice maker. Testing the door water line also works. I will point out the door water line is reasonably stronger than the ice makers line, however I don't know if that's normal or noteworthy.

My thinking at this point is the ice maker is likely good and this is a water supply issue. Should I be looking at replacing the water inlet valve? Something else?
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
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Aug 24, 2004
Messages
134,371
Location
Redmond, Oregon
The water flows when the valve is jumped from the ice maker.
Ok, that indicates the ice maker solenoid side of the water inlet valve is working, so that indicates possibly a clog in your water fill tube to the ice maker.

Check that ice maker water fill tube and see if its clogged with ice.

Watch this video to access it:


Jake
 

digitalgimpus

Premium Member
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Mar 3, 2018
Messages
15
Location
NJ
Hey, thanks for the reply!

So I don't see any visual obstructions in the fill tube shining a light in it. I unclipped it as shown in the video, and see what I guess it a heating element around it, there's not much play however so I can't really say I see much behind there unfortunately. I did take a blowdryer to it and carefully put a little hot air in there to see if maybe anything froze and might get losened.

The ice maker line had notably less pressure/flow than the water side. Is that by design or indicating a possible fault on the inlet valve? I triggered both and they did start/stop, so I know the valve is responding but not to what degree, and I'm unsure what pressure it needs to make it up the door and prevent any freezing.
 

digitalgimpus

Premium Member
Joined
Mar 3, 2018
Messages
15
Location
NJ
Small update: Had to close things up for a few minutes, then gave it another quick blast with the blow dryer and jumped the water valve again and got some flow. So I'm now thinking freezing might be the culprit. Freezer is already 2F higher than factory defaults and seeing around 0F inside using a IR thermometer.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Messages
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Ok, also make sure the fill tube heater is working as well. Its a 2 watt heater.

Here's the fill tube heater for your model:
W10347267 Fitting


I'm attaching your tech. data sheet below.

DO--->Service Test - 19 Ice Maker Fill Tube Heater Status
--->If this feature is available on the product--->This step will allow the Ice Maker Fill Tube Heater selecting SW3 (toggle between On and Off) (01 = ON, 02 = Off).

When its ON, that fill tube heater should be warm.

Jake
 

Attachments

  • serviceandwiringsheet-w10647266-revb.pdf
    407.6 KB · Views: 36

digitalgimpus

Premium Member
Joined
Mar 3, 2018
Messages
15
Location
NJ
I tested the heater. The fill tube itself didn't feel warm, i can't get enough slack to be able to tell if the element itself is heating however.

I also noticed since I got it to fill yesterday, it never ejected the ice that was created. Could that be related to the fill operation not working as well? I presume when ice is ejected is when it would start heating, at least that seems logical.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Messages
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On the UI(user interface) Stealth board check for 14 volts DC at J2-1(white wire) to J2-8(blue wire) when it should be heating.

Here's the UI Stealth board for your model: WPW10688646

I also noticed since I got it to fill yesterday, it never ejected the ice that was created. Could that be related to the fill operation not working as well? I presume when ice is ejected is when it would start heating, at least that seems logical.
Sounds like your having 2 issues.

Let's check for the easiest problem that it can be first, lots of members have found frayed and broken wires causing the ice maker to be dead or not put water in the ice maker tray. Remove the black wire harness loom too, broken wires can be underneath it.

FREEZER DOOR - b4.jpg

Another member was having a similar problem here: FIXED: GSF26C4EXY02 Whirlpool Gold Ice Maker Problem

Look at his post #6 he found frayed and broken wires underneath the freezer door, I'd remove your kickplate and check for that first.

Here's another one with the same thing about the frayed and broken wires: FIXED: 106.51173310 Kenmore elite ice maker not working - no led light

Here's another: FIXED: Whirlpool WSF26C2EXF01 Door Icemaker Not Working

Here's the ice maker for your model:
WPW10251076 Icemaker


Let us know what you find.

Jake
 
Last edited:

digitalgimpus

Premium Member
Joined
Mar 3, 2018
Messages
15
Location
NJ
Thanks once again for helping me debug what's going on here. I did do my homework and search running across at least one of those previous posts before. The jacket was a little torn right by the door but visually all wiring seems to be intact:

I just did a continuity test to all 4 pin for the ice maker and they check out. I wasn't sure where on the door to find the other pins to confirm those.

I also checked the fill tube heater in Test 19 with the multimeter on the black/white wire and the brown wire expecting to see 14V DC, but didn't see anything. I'm not sure if I messed up in how I was testing that or if that's suspect.
 

digitalgimpus

Premium Member
Joined
Mar 3, 2018
Messages
15
Location
NJ
So previously I had checked the wiring harness visually, several hours ago I unplugged it at the toe kick to do a continuity test. Now I've had hours of ice working. Another visual inspection doesn't show any signs of a broken lead, just that torn jacket (which I might wrap in electrical tape).

My suspicion is maybe the cable wasn't properly seated and after several years of use lost contact.

Will follow up in a day with if this is a fluke or still working.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Messages
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Location
Redmond, Oregon
Yes, that clearly sounds like what happened.

How's it doing now?

Jake
 

digitalgimpus

Premium Member
Joined
Mar 3, 2018
Messages
15
Location
NJ
Full ice bucket! I even dumped a little out and it's working.

I think I'm going to give it a few more days, then maybe get some electrical tape on that wiring harness for a little extra protection. I don't think I have any heat shrink tubing that will slip over the connector.

Thanks again for helping diagnose this.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
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Messages
134,371
Location
Redmond, Oregon
Glad to hear its doing good.(y)

Jake
 
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