FIXED MVWB755YQ0 Washer stops spinning at exactly 8/9 minute mark

Odelphi

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Oct 1, 2019
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20
Location
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Model Number
MVWB755YQ0
Brand
Maytag
Age
6-10 years
My Maytag Bravos MCT top load washer runs just fine agitating, filling with water, emptying water, etc. It runs relatively silently with no real wobbling or out of balance issues. However, at exactly the same time every time during the spin cycle (8 minutes) the washer very quickly stops with a "clunk" and I get the infamous "UL" indicator. When I open the top, the timer resets to 12 minutes and it starts the spin cycle over again. But again, it stops at exactly 8 minutes (or between 8 and 9 minutes). I have done internet research on this issue and have seen comments as far back as 2015 on this exact issue, so this must be a common issue that occurs with these washers. I have also read that it could be the bearings worn out. I replaced the bearings and the tub hub gear. I have seen comments on this site where someone says they are going to replace this or that and see what happens. Unfortunately they do not leave a comment as to whether what they tried worked.
I have two questions:
1. What is happening at that exact time that it stops the machine at that exact time every time?
2. Any advice on what can be causing this? Apparently, it is not the bearing or tub hub and it is not the stator or rotator because from what I read if it was the stator/rotator, the washer wouldn't agitate either or spin at all.

Thanks
 

Jake

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Hi,

Here's the parts diagram for your model:

Here's the tech. data sheet for your model: https://drive.google.com/open?id=138wvlvSqOnOHZrlX1773uIz35mpzftLI

Get into the diagnostics to see what other error code you get, also do the AUTOMATIC diagnostics.

Seems you've replaced all the parts that relate to error code UL.

Jake
 

Odelphi

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Messages
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Location
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Thank You Jake for responding. Based on your experience with what is happening to me, what would be your first guess as to what is happening (or what diagnostic code should I watch for carefully). By the way, I talked with an on-line appliance technician and he suggested my basket is getting "stuck" in the up position (i.e. it is continuing to float) while spinning. Is there some way to know that or test for that?
 

Odelphi

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Messages
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Thank You Jake for responding. Based on your experience with what is happening to me, what would be your first guess as to what is happening (or what diagnostic code should I watch for carefully). By the way, I talked with an on-line appliance technician and he suggested my basket is getting "stuck" in the up position (i.e. it is continuing to float) while spinning. Is there some way to know that or test for that?
Jake, I got into the diagnostics following the sheet you sent me. I first tried to get the saved error codes. Well, something happened. Per the diagnostic sheet the error codes are "F" codes. After pressing the key sequence "U00" came up. When I continued to press the same key, "U01" came up, then "U02" ,etc. I pressed power button to stop the process.
I then started again and apparently I don't have any saved error codes. The instructions said after doing the key presses, it will display 000. If there are no saved codes, the display will go blank, then come on again. That is what happened. So I am thinking there are no saved codes. I also ran the Automatic diagnostics (C-codes) all the way to the end with no apparent problem.
 

Odelphi

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Jake, I got into the diagnostics following the sheet you sent me. I first tried to get the saved error codes. Well, something happened. Per the diagnostic sheet the error codes are "F" codes. After pressing the key sequence "U00" came up. When I continued to press the same key, "U01" came up, then "U02" ,etc. I pressed power button to stop the process.
I then started again and apparently I don't have any saved error codes. The instructions said after doing the key presses, it will display 000. If there are no saved codes, the display will go blank, then come on again. That is what happened. So I am thinking there are no saved codes. I also ran the Automatic diagnostics (C-codes) all the way to the end with no apparent problem.
Finally, I did a manual spin diagnostic. After starting the manual diagnostic, I manually spun the basket and saw the "WASH", "RINSE" and "SPIN" indicator lights go off and on as I spun the basket. I then locked the lid and activated the motor spin. It did all three speeds all the way up to 1000rpm (there was a little wobble when it got to 1000rpm but nothing serious), then I stopped it. Didn't see that there was any problem.
BYW: Before doing all this, my wife did a load of laundry. As usual, it stopped at the 8/9 minute mark. She switched the cycle to "DRAIN& SPIN" and it went all the way to the 6 minute mark before clunking off. Usually it also stops at the 8/9 minute mark on "DRAIN&SPIN".
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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By the way, I talked with an on-line appliance technician and he suggested my basket is getting "stuck" in the up position (i.e. it is continuing to float) while spinning. Is there some way to know that or test for that?
I haven't worked on any of these direct drive models as of yet, so I can't tell you what usually is the problem when you keep getting UL error codes for no apparent reason.

But someone else here mentioned something about the floating basket getting stuck in the UP position.

You may have something causing friction if the basket is not floating down properly.

You'd need to go over everything you did when you replaced the bearing. Make you liberally apply that grease that comes in that bearing kit.

Here's the bearing kit(Video Included):
W10435302 Bearing and Tub Seal Kit


Here's the bearing driver installation tool:
W10447783 Bearing Installation Tool


Jake
 

Odelphi

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Jake, I am the one who mentioned the basket getting stuck in the up position. I talked with an on-line repair technician and that was his suggestion. I am skeptical of his opinion. There are three things wrong with that scenario. (1) This issue with the spin quitting at 8/9 minutes was happening BEFORE I repaired the bearings. So much to my disappointment, repairing the bearings had no bearing (pun intended) on the spin cycle quiting. Also, the instructions to replace the bearings does not suggest putting grease in the middle of the bearing where the shifter rod is. The video you sent me also doesn't put grease on the bearings. (2) Based on my understanding of how the spin cycle works, if the basket was stuck in the up position, the basket can't spin or it would spin intermittently. It IS spinning. It is just stopping at 8/9 minute mark. (3) I ran the automatic diagnostics as you suggested. This takes the machine through a 10 second agitate cycle ,which requires the basket to float, and a 10 second spin cycle, which requires the basket to come down and lock into the gears. The automatic diagnostic worked fine. No issues. I also did a manual spin diagnostic, which takes the basket up to 1000rpm. It worked fine with no issues. This is a conundrum inside of a paradox wrapped around a enigma.
 

Jake

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Ok, I really don't know why it comes with grease if you can't put it on, I will need to ask Matt about that.

Matt made the video.

I haven't installed this bearing kit as of yet, so I don't know, I only go but the video too.

Hopefully another tech that's seen this problem first hand and knows the fix can shed some light on why this UL code keeps happening for no apparent reason.

Jake
 

Odelphi

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Jake,
The instructions say to put grease on the inside rubber seal at the top of the shifter. Also, I put grease on the outside of the bottom bearing in order to make it easier for the bearing tool to squeeze in place. It seems the UL code is happening for no apparent reason and it is oddly happening at the exact same time every time. Apparently something happens during the spin cycle at exactly 8 or 9 minutes that triggers the spin to immediately stop.
 

Jake

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Ok, the only other part that would cause this is the main control board:

Its possibly corrupted software in it, have you been experiencing frequent power outages in your area?

Jake
 

Odelphi

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We experience power outages but we don't live in a third-world country. The power outages are infrequent. In order to test that is there anyway to reload the software? As for the main control board, I ran the automatic diagnostics and it ran fine. Shouldn't there have been a error code or something happen if the main control board was going out? Also, if it was the main control board, shouldn't there be other issues happening since the MCU controls everything?
Thanks
 

Jake

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The power outages are not what causes the problems, its when the power comes back on, then you can get a voltage spike or voltage surge that destroys electronics.

In order to test that is there anyway to reload the software?
Not that I'm aware of.

Shouldn't there have been a error code or something happen if the main control board was going out?
Yes, but corrupted software can prevent that.

Also, if it was the main control board, shouldn't there be other issues happening since the MCU controls everything?
Not always.

Jake
 

Odelphi

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Thank You. I have an update. I don't know what I did except to run the diagnostics, but my wife tells me the spin cycle is going all the way to the end now. So for now, the machine is working fine. There is a little shimmy in the high speed spin and the whoooshing sound, but it finishes. Thank you for sending me the diagnostics procedures and all your help.
 

Jake

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Glad to hear its working good again. (y)

Jake
 
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