FIXED MVWC200XW3 Sense light on light humming noise won't start any cycles

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8950LX

Premium Member
Joined
Aug 9, 2015
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5
Location
Marengo, IL
Model Number
MVWC200XW3
Brand
Maytag
Age
1-5 years
My green sensing light will come on and I get a low humming noise from inside the machine. I'm unable to get the unit into diagnostic mode. I do have 12.75vdc at the J2 pinout with or without the connector on as verified with two different DVOM's. My troubleshooting guide lists 13+vdc should be at the J2 pinouts. I'm leaning towards a shifter assembly but would be interested in any other opinions or suggestions. Thank you in advance. :)
 

8950LX

Premium Member
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Messages
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Location
Marengo, IL
Update - I was finally able to retrieve an F9E1 fault code. Drain pump checks out ok. If I attempt to start the machine I get a flashing sensing led, if I push the start button a second time I get a solid sensing light and a low humming from the console. No other led's are lit.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Aug 24, 2004
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102,680
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
F9E1 long drain error.

Go into diagnostics and retrieve the codes, and clear them. This is very important since most complaints start with the lid lock on and blinking, or the unit will not start and spin.

If, when in diagnostics the codes are F7E1, F7E5, or motor speed codes, then chances are it is a motor, capacitor, or shifter related issue. Once the codes are cleared, put the washer into a manual diagnostic test and run the HEAVY AGITATION; if
after 15‐20 Seconds the motor runs then you can rule out the motor, capacitor, control, and most likely the wiring harness connections (although still check the BK wire from the shifter to the control). Remember, the timing wheel only turns in the
transmission during the spin cycle.

Next, while in Manual diagnostics, try to get the unit to spin; if the motor hums for a split second and then shuts down with the lid lock blinking; go back into diagnostic codes and look for shifter or speed sensor errors.

This is proof that the shifter/sensor assembly is the issue because the optical sensor is not reading the motor speed.

Here's the shift actuator for your model you can order - Video Included:
Shift Actuator WPW10006355


Let us know what you find.

Jake
 

8950LX

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Joined
Aug 9, 2015
Messages
5
Location
Marengo, IL
Thanks for the info Jake. I'll check that right now and post back with the results.
 
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8950LX

Premium Member
Joined
Aug 9, 2015
Messages
5
Location
Marengo, IL
I retrieved an F9E1 & F7E7 code. In manual diagnostic test the lid lock will function but will not lock for any of the other tests. My drain pump will not activate(low humming) but passed the ohms test. I have not flipped the unit on it's side yet for further inspection.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
102,680
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
I'd take a voltage reading at the drain pump to see if you have 120 volts when you say its low humming, if you have 120 volts and its not running, then the drain pump is bad. If your not getting the full 120 volts at the drain pump then the control board is malfunctioning.

Here's the drain pump for your model:
Whirlpool W10276397 Pump-Water


Here's the main control board for your model:
Whirlpool W10480178 Electronic Control Board


Jake
 

8950LX

Premium Member
Joined
Aug 9, 2015
Messages
5
Location
Marengo, IL
Low and behold....one of my kids finally admitted they overloaded the washer. When I flipped the unit over and pulled the drain pump there was a sock sucked up into the impeller. I cleaned it out, cleared the codes, ran it through manual diagnostics, ran it through calibration mode and all is good now. I would've flipped the unit over sooner to do a visual on the motor and pump but space is tight. A sincere thanks to you Jake for all your help, it was much appreciated. :eek:
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
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Messages
102,680
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Excellent, good find.:)

Jake
 
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