MVWC360AW0 F7 E1 code, no spin

doodles

Premium Member
Joined
Jun 1, 2019
Messages
7
Location
RI
Model Number
MVWC360AW0
Brand
Maytag
Age
6-10 years
HI,

I have replaced the shifter once on this machine about 9 months ago. Recently, it again would not spin or would spin irregularly, and I bought and installed a new shifter but nothing changed. I have done the diagnostics in test 3a in the manual with the new shifter and the shifter passes. I also did a test that I found on this board (? VMS or VMW ) and the shifter passed. The exact symptom is the machine will agitate, both low and high, but when I try to put it into spin, there is a clicking as the shifter is activated and then 10-15 seconds later there is a hum and then silence. Once or twice out of more than 10 tries, I got a low spin which stopped without my turning it off. I never can get a high spin. I have tested the wire harnesses for continuity and they check:wall: out. The transmission spins freely by hand and I can manually shift from agitate to spin without difficulty. The only possibility for the F7, E1 code seems to be a "locked rotor" according to the manual. What would that be?

Thanks,

David
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
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Jul 11, 2006
Messages
34,731
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
Go into service diagnostic mode. Turn the cycle selector knob until the status LEDs correspond as follows:
MVWC360-TACH.jpg
Press the START button

Tachometer verification uses the status LEDs to represent the tachometer frequency (basket RPM). Slowly turn the basket by hand; as the basket turns, the DONE, SPIN, RINSE, and WASH status LEDs will illuminate one at a time in a visually repeating cycle. The LED timing is derived from the tachometer signal itself.

Hold the START button for three seconds to exit at any time.
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
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Messages
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You may have a bad run capacitor. Disconnect the capacitor and short the two terminals with a screwdriver. Connect your meter to the two terminals on the capacitor. Your meter should show a steady increase in resistance. Open or shorted it's bad.
 

doodles

Premium Member
Joined
Jun 1, 2019
Messages
7
Location
RI
I had to use a needle nose pliers to get to both terminals and there did not seem to be a charge in the capacitor. When I attached the leads, it showed open. Do you think this is the problem?
 

doodles

Premium Member
Joined
Jun 1, 2019
Messages
7
Location
RI
UPDATE: I used my better meter which measures farads. It showed 52.5 micro Farads. Also, the ohms show a steady increase. So it looks like the first test was bad due to a lousy meter.
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
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Messages
34,731
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
doodles said:
I also did a test that I found on this board (? VMS or VMW ) and the shifter passed.

What test is this? Will it spin and agitate in Manual Test Mode?
 

doodles

Premium Member
Joined
Jun 1, 2019
Messages
7
Location
RI
That was the tachometer test that you described. I just didn't remember the name of the test. The machine will NOT spin in manual test mode, but it will agitate.
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Messages
34,731
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
Check the black wire between the control and shifter for continuity. If the wire checks good, activate Service Diagnostic Test Mode, retrieve any fault/error codes, and clear them. After they are cleared go into Manual Test Mode and run the Heavy Agitation Test. If the motor runs after 15-20 seconds the Motor, Run Capacitor, Control and Wire Harness connections are all OK. While you're still in manual test mode try to get the machine to spin. If the motor hums and shuts off and the Lid Lock LED is blinking, go back to the test mode and get any error codes and post them here.
 

doodles

Premium Member
Joined
Jun 1, 2019
Messages
7
Location
RI
Black wire shows continuity. Codes cleared. Washer agitates in manual test mode, but will not spin. New code is F7, E1. No other codes.
 
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