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FIXED MVWC400XW Maytag washer keeps blowing resistor on control board.

86irocz

Member
Joined
Mar 3, 2020
Messages
1
Location
Omaha ne
Model Number
MVWC400XW
Brand
Maytag
Age
1-5 years
So this washer stopped in the middle of a load and lid would not unlock. Lid lock light just flashed. Stored codes were for lid lock switch and for the shift actuator. I replaced both parts and it did not fix.

Pulled out the board and there was a large resistor R050 that was cooked. Ordered a new board and installed. Started running it through the test cycles and everything was fine until it went to shift into the spin cycle and it made a loud electrical buzzing sound and shut down. Lid lock light flashing.

I pulled the new board back out and the same resistor is cooked. Has anyone had a problem like this and know the fix. I really dont want to keep throwing money at this thing because as it is i almost have doubled the money ive spent on parts than what i paid for it used.
 

rickgburton

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.....until it went to shift into the spin cycle
The problem with board level issues is there's no schematic for the board. Unless you can figure out what circuit the resistor is used for there's no way of knowing what's cooking it. Maytag had this problem once before on their flagship front load "Neptune". They were replacing a lot of control boards with the same 2 or 3 resistors burned up. Some people started replacing the resistors on the board. That only lasted 2 -3 days. Someone with an electronics background figured the wax motor was causing the problem. My point being, look at whatever was energized when you heard the electrical buzz. Check for error codes again. I would think a burned resistor and the buzz noise would log an error code for something not working. Checked for broken, almost broken and pinched wires in the wire harness.
 

bkofficebilly

Premium Member
Joined
Mar 19, 2020
Messages
7
Location
Denton, TX
Same issue here with my Maytag MVWC415EW1, R050 blowing, and I am on my 2nd board. :(. The last time this happend it was just in its normal agitor stage, we lost power for a few minutes and the lid was locked. Power came back on and just the red light for the lid lock, I had to pop the top off ot disengage the lid switch to get the lid open, and after that I am not getting anything from the board. The board just clicks once you plug it in with a green light on the back showing for a quick second and thats it, nothing else. I am in the early stages so I am still on the hunt for the cause and will share I did praticlty the same thing. just wanted to get on the thread in case something pops up.
 

Jake

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McMullen Valley, Arizona
That's very odd because both of these models use different control boards but have the same R050 resistor?

Here's the main control board for your model @bkofficebilly :
Control Board W11124822


Jake
 

rickgburton

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Murray, Utah 84107, United States
I checked several different parts sites and found the same as Jake. The correct part number is W11124822. What's the part number of the one that came out of it and what's the part number of the one you just put in?
 
Last edited:

bkofficebilly

Premium Member
Joined
Mar 19, 2020
Messages
7
Location
Denton, TX
Correct, I replaced the original board with the same model number. Below is the blurb from the Sears Parts direct website for my model.

Part #W11124822
This is a manufacturer substitution.
Part may differ in appearance but is a functional equivalent to prior parts including W10779756
This part replaces #W10779756
 

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bkofficebilly

Premium Member
Joined
Mar 19, 2020
Messages
7
Location
Denton, TX
OK I got it. You replaced the 9756 with another 9756. New or used?
Yeah the 2nd board was a used board off ebay, worked for a short bit. I just cant see spending new board monies for this washer. With that I am willing to spend a few more dollars to and order some SMD resistors and do some more testing, so with hopes to have 2 functioning boards soon.
 

rickgburton

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Those boards had a few problems so it was updated to the new part number. Good luck.
 

bkofficebilly

Premium Member
Joined
Mar 19, 2020
Messages
7
Location
Denton, TX
Update: Was able to get both boards up and operational, removed the burned R050 resistors and replaced them this weekend-its a bit messy but it works. I did some digging around and found some possible usefull information for the reasoning of why that R050 was getting toasted. I am still researching but from what I found that resistor (R69 surge resistor) has relation to the drain pump and/or pump motor relay. I found this service manual for a stackable but so far the locations referenced on the board are the same. I will need to cross reference what board is in relation to the boards I have and also check the resistance on the pump relay and pump on the washer. Here is the link to the stackables service manual (the page formatting is horrid).
 

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Jake

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Good find!

If the drain pump is causing the R50 resistor to keep burning up, then there must be a problem with the drain pump causing the R50 to keep burning up, so I'd replace the drain pump too, wouldn't you agree Rick?

Here's the drain pump for your model:
Drain Pump WPW10661045


Jake
 

bkofficebilly

Premium Member
Joined
Mar 19, 2020
Messages
7
Location
Denton, TX
Looks like I might be getting closer. From what I have found the pump should ohm out at 14 to 25, but so far I havent found anything definitive on that, but I did get 2.4ohms on the pump. I didnt find anywhere else to measure and I could totally be doing this from the incorrect location, does anyone have any info to add?
 

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