- Model Number
- MVWX500XW0
I have an issue with our washer(obviously). The auto self test completes without issue. I ran lid lock tests, agitate(low and high) in manual mode, spin tests (low has completed once but reverted to flashing lid lock every other time after a couple seconds, and high always flashes after the basket starts spinning). Error codes range from F7-E1 to F7-E7 which are basket speed sensor fault and motor unable to reach target RPM. I have done tests for 3a and 3b for shifter, shifter switch, and optical sensor.
The optical sensor test says that it should be 13vdc and I got 12 over than than everything tested as expected which ends at "replace control board".
Since the agitate test seemed to always pass but spin failed it seemed odd that the control board was at fault(maybe I am wrong) but also the auto test always passes without issue which seems to spin up the basket without issues and seems to be always be running strong. So I know it is not the motor as it is very snappy and torque is great.
So, since it always seems to pass most things, just intermittent lid light flashing during spin test(even though the lock engages and disengages perfect) so I wondered if maybe it just(here's where I need you guys to pick apart my theory):
1. maybe it is just not sensing the lid is closed
2. so I did test 8 for the lid latch assembly
lock switch solenoid test J15-1 to J15-3 supposed to be 85-155 ohms (I get about 120) so as expected that seems good as it does click and engage perfect
lock switch J15-3 to J15-4 supposed to be 0 ohms locked and open circuit unlocked.... I get 1 ohm locked and open unlocked... not too far off.... ok
lid switch J15-3 to J15-2 , again supposed to be 0 ohms locked and open circuit unlocked... I get open circuit open and anywhere between 4 ohms and 180 ohms that varies drastically every time I open and close the lid. i.e. I open and closed it over and over again and I will get 4, 180, 32, 21, 38, 110, 7, 8, 58, 160, 132, 2 .... you get the idea. SO I said... maybe if I try repeating over and over again til I get a low ohm rating and then try the spin manual test so I got to 4 ohms and ran the low spin test and BAM it finished without issue.
theory: weird I am not getting a lid error code, but during other tests it can't get to target RPM/basket speed sensor fault because it sees lid is locked as the latch works but once it initiates test it senses the lid is open even though latch is locked and the test faults and gives me erroneous speed test errors (sort of because it is factual that the speed is not what it is supposed to be because lid closed sensor prematurely kills the test) when it is the lid switch that is at fault all along.
Here's another point I need help on... if this sounds like a sound theory:
1. would it be suspected that the magnet in the hook portion of the latch that is on the lid is failing and not tripping the actual latch sensor properly(I assume that is how it works as I see a piece of metal in the hook through a little hole in plastic that I assume to be a magnet)
2. would we suspect the actual latch/lock mechanism is at fault that is mounted under the top of the washer(as I said it locks and unlocks properly, it seems to just not sense that the lid is closed which I assume is an internal secondary sensor within that mechanism that is tripped by that magnetic connection based off of the hook portion sort of like alarm system window sensors).
3. or would we sill suspect that the control board is at fault for the interpretation of the data being sent from the latch sensor and that is what is causing the inconsistent open/closed resistance data
The optical sensor test says that it should be 13vdc and I got 12 over than than everything tested as expected which ends at "replace control board".
Since the agitate test seemed to always pass but spin failed it seemed odd that the control board was at fault(maybe I am wrong) but also the auto test always passes without issue which seems to spin up the basket without issues and seems to be always be running strong. So I know it is not the motor as it is very snappy and torque is great.
So, since it always seems to pass most things, just intermittent lid light flashing during spin test(even though the lock engages and disengages perfect) so I wondered if maybe it just(here's where I need you guys to pick apart my theory):
1. maybe it is just not sensing the lid is closed
2. so I did test 8 for the lid latch assembly
lock switch solenoid test J15-1 to J15-3 supposed to be 85-155 ohms (I get about 120) so as expected that seems good as it does click and engage perfect
lock switch J15-3 to J15-4 supposed to be 0 ohms locked and open circuit unlocked.... I get 1 ohm locked and open unlocked... not too far off.... ok
lid switch J15-3 to J15-2 , again supposed to be 0 ohms locked and open circuit unlocked... I get open circuit open and anywhere between 4 ohms and 180 ohms that varies drastically every time I open and close the lid. i.e. I open and closed it over and over again and I will get 4, 180, 32, 21, 38, 110, 7, 8, 58, 160, 132, 2 .... you get the idea. SO I said... maybe if I try repeating over and over again til I get a low ohm rating and then try the spin manual test so I got to 4 ohms and ran the low spin test and BAM it finished without issue.
theory: weird I am not getting a lid error code, but during other tests it can't get to target RPM/basket speed sensor fault because it sees lid is locked as the latch works but once it initiates test it senses the lid is open even though latch is locked and the test faults and gives me erroneous speed test errors (sort of because it is factual that the speed is not what it is supposed to be because lid closed sensor prematurely kills the test) when it is the lid switch that is at fault all along.
Here's another point I need help on... if this sounds like a sound theory:
1. would it be suspected that the magnet in the hook portion of the latch that is on the lid is failing and not tripping the actual latch sensor properly(I assume that is how it works as I see a piece of metal in the hook through a little hole in plastic that I assume to be a magnet)
2. would we suspect the actual latch/lock mechanism is at fault that is mounted under the top of the washer(as I said it locks and unlocks properly, it seems to just not sense that the lid is closed which I assume is an internal secondary sensor within that mechanism that is tripped by that magnetic connection based off of the hook portion sort of like alarm system window sensors).
3. or would we sill suspect that the control board is at fault for the interpretation of the data being sent from the latch sensor and that is what is causing the inconsistent open/closed resistance data
