FIXED MVWX550XW0 Wont Start, Makes Buzzing Sound

Shapechanger

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Apr 5, 2019
Messages
8
Location
Omaha NE
Model
MVWX550XW0
Brand
Maytag
Age
6-10 years
Hi, I have a Maytag MVWX550XW0. It was working fine up till about 6 months ago, when it wouldn't proceed past a certain cycle, I think spin. It then go the point where it just would not start, and would make a loud buzzing sound and the lock lid light would flash. I have put it into the diagnostics mode and got error codes:

F1 E2 - MOTOR CONTROL FAULT

F5 E1- LID SWITCH FAULT

If anyone could possibly point me in the right direction on what I should replace to get this washer back up and running that would be great. As of now I am at the mercy of an old GE washer that gets super cranky if you put anything more than a couple towels in it, it makes washing large amounts a clothes a rear chore.

Thanks in advance

PS: Addiontal information. If you try to start it, it the lick will lock with a solid red light, make the usual clicks, then it will stop, unlock and the lid lock will blink. If you try to start it, it just beeps at you, you have to unplug it to reset it. Lid lock works in manual test mode

If I try to put it in to any kind of spin cycle or agitate in the manual test mode, it doesn't like it. Low spin makes it buzz, and agitate it will try to move once, then the lid lock will blink.
 

Jake

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Hi,

Here's the tech. data sheet for your model: https://drive.google.com/open?id=197tM3PztM8VMQn2BdTQOk7yHp5YFSXPZ

I'd first make sure the basket in your washer turns freely, then I'd check the motor capacitor to make sure that didn't burn up. You will usually see it bulge at the top of it, if its shot.

Here's the capacitor for your model:
W10804664 Capacitor


If your capacitor tests good, then test the motor: See TEST #3b: Drive System–Motor, page 14.

Here's the motor for your model:
W10836348 Drive Motor


Let us know what you find.

Jake
 

Shapechanger

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Thanks for quick reply. The tub moves freely, and I can spin the motor from the bottom. The capacitor visually looks fine, but I do not have a 20k ohm resistor to discharge it so I did not test it between the terminals. I am trying to find the resistors that are stated in the motor testing area.
 

Jake

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Ok,

You can also test it with a analog meter, watch the video it will show you how to do that. Unplug the washer first.

[video=youtube_share;kdFIARakavk]https://youtu.be/kdFIARakavk[/video]

Jake
 

Shapechanger

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Location
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Ok tried that, bridged it with something. Using the analog i get nothing, but using my digital multimeter the ohms read, they climb till my multimeter cant read the number anymore.
 

Jake

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That's odd, the analog meter test is more accurate. So its likely bad, but do those two TESTS I posted above to make sure your motor and control board are good first before you replace it.

Jake
 

Shapechanger

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Ok, went out a bought a new analog multi-meter since I don't entirely trust the one i have. I followed that video that was posted, measuring between the terminals on the capacitor, it will deflect to zero ohms and come back, if i reverse the cables it will do the same thing. I went through the whole Test #3b: Drive System - Motor section, so I will post what i got, it may get lengthy, I will post it by steps.

1. Gentle nor Heavy Agitation will run. It will start, get maybe one rotation, stop, the lid lock with unlock and the light will blink, sometimes it will hum,

2. Unplugged

3. The basket will turn freely by hand.

5. All connectors appears to be plugged in fully, gave each one a good push to make sure.

7. This proved a little difficult as the washer will not agitate. I set my leads where it asked, and hastily started the agitation, it spun once, while it performed the single spin, the voltage did spike to above 120v.

8. Same as with number 7, i was able to get it to agitate once, and while the my probes were in the correct corresponding wires, the voltage spiked to 120 and possibly above.

10. Between wires 6 and 5 of the J16 plug i got 1.4 ohms, also got 1.4 ohms between wires 7 and 5 of the J16 plug.

12. All plugs seemed to be good.

13. I was able to get continuity between all pins mentioned in the table for step 13.

14. For the ohms rating between the motor pinouts, Between both sets (6 and 9, as well as 3 and 9), I got 4.0 ohms for both sets.
 

Jake

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Ok,

Between wires 6 and 5 of the J16 plug normal Resistance should be between 3.5 and 6 Ω.

Between wires 7 and 5 of the J16 plug normal Resistance should be between 3.5 and 6 Ω.

So 1.4 ohms is too low for both tests and it says: If values are open or out of range, go to step 11.

11. Tilt washer back to access the drive system.
12. Visually check the mounting bracket and electrical connections to the motor and shifter.
--->If visual check passes, go to step 13.

13. With an ohmmeter, check the harness for continuity between the main control, motor, and run capacitor using the following test points.
Motor Connector Pin-1 to Chassis Ground
Motor Connector Pin-3 to Main Control J16-7
Motor Connector Pin-3 to Run Capacitor Pin-3
Motor Connector Pin-6 to Main Control J16-6
Motor Connector Pin-6 to Run Capacitor Pin-1
Motor Connector Pin-9 to Main Control J16-5

If there is continuity, go to step 14.
If there is no continuity, replace the lower washer harness and repeat step 1.
14. For the ohms rating between the motor pinouts, Between both sets (6 and 9, as well as 3 and 9), I got 4.0 ohms for both sets.
Resistance should be between 3.5 and 6 Ω. So we are good there.:)

If values are correct, go to step 15.

15. Test Motor Run Capacitor. NOTE: A faulty capacitor may cause the motor to “hum”, not start, or turn slowly.
a. Discharge the capacitor by touching the leads of a 20,000 Ω resistor to the two terminals.
b. Disconnect the wires from the capacitor terminals.
c. With an ohmmeter, measure across the terminals and note reading.
--->If a steady increase in resistance is noted, continue to step 16.
--->If the capacitor is either shorted or open, replace capacitor, calibrate washer (page 4), and repeat step 1.
16. If the preceding steps did not correct the motor problem, replace the main control.
a. Unplug washer or disconnect power.
b. Replace the main control.
c. Reassemble all parts and panels.
d. Plug in washer or reconnect power. Calibrate washer and perform Automatic Test to verify repair.

This seems odd to me--->Discharge the capacitor by touching the leads of a 20,000 Ω resistor to the two terminals.

Because the way you discharge the capacitor is to use a flathead screwdriver to short across the two terminals, MAKE sure the machine is unplugged from the wall outlet first, and Disconnect the wires from the capacitor terminals after you discharge it.

NOTE: To test if the capacitor discharged properly, touch both terminals at the same time with the screwdriver again. If there's no spark, the capacitor is discharged.

Try that and see if the capacitor still checks good.

Jake
 

Shapechanger

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Ok, retested the capacitor.
Capacitor.jpg

Took videos of the results, one using a digital multi-meter and the other an analog.

[video=youtube;E2ZSZNr_zJE]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E2ZSZNr_zJE[/video]

[video=youtube;kBpnbrRPTTw]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kBpnbrRPTTw[/video]
 

Jake

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Ok, and this was after you discharged it?

If so, it should be good. So that just leaves the motor, lower wire harness, or control board as the culprit.

Here's the control board for your model: W10393452 Electronic Control Board

Jake
 

Shapechanger

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Location
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Yes it was after it was discharged, the first pic showes me bridging the terminals with a screw driver.
 
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Jake

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Yes, ok that's fine.

So that just leaves the motor, lower wire harness, or main control board as the culprit.

Here's the main control board for your model: W10393452 Electronic Control Board

Jake
 

Shapechanger

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Well I think i have narrowed it down to a blown capacitor on the main control board. Will this cause the control board not to function properly?
20190411_131217.jpg
 

Jake

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Yes, that would do it.

Order and replace the main control board and you'll be back in business.:)

Jake
 

Shapechanger

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Thanks for all the help. If this can help anyone in the future, I was able to fix my washer for pretty much free. I was able to fix the control board my self by desoldering the bad capacitor and solding in a new one i salvaged from something else. It took me 10min and my washer is now back up and running, ive put a load through it already and it functioned as it should.
 

Jake

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That's fine for a temporary fix, but the reason that capacitor failed is because you have a faulty circuit on the control board and it will blow that capacitor again in short time.

Once you replace the complete main control board then it won't blow the capacitor again.:)

Jake
 
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