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MVWX655DW1 Lid lock (main control board??) problem

ChrisV

Premium Member
Joined
Jul 24, 2022
Messages
12
Location
Massachusetts
Model Number
MVWX655DW1
Brand
Maytag
Age
6-10 years
Hello, Everyone,

I’m struggling with my maytag MVWX655DW1. The main issue seems to be that the washer stops after a lengthy sensing period and never actually transitions to the wash cycle.

I’ve tried reading the error codes after the machine fails to wash, and keep seeing lid lock related errors… either f5e1 or f5e2 or both. Performing an automatic test I’ve gotten both “no error codes read” and the lid lock codes above.

when I initiated a “drain and spin” the machine drained and spun (with a locked lid) but the lid wouldn’t unlock without me holding start for three seconds.

When I moved to manual diagnostic mode, I tested the lid lock and there was no error. The lid locks properly and the lock light illuminates.

I checked the service manual (screen shot below) for my model and the first line of the instructions for lid lock repair say that these instructions are to be followed if the manual lid lock fails— but my manual lid lock test did not fail. There seems to be no instructions for what to do if you’re getting a lid lock error but the manual test says the lid lock is fine.

Other cycles seem to be fine—- the washer can spin, agitate, drain, fill etc etc….but it won’t transition out of sensing mode because the lid won’t lock while it’s actually in use.

My vote is main control board issue…but I know nothing about appliance repair.

what do you think?
Thanks in advance!
 

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To add to the fun: manual testing the low and high speed spin cycles (after engaging the lid lock while in manual test mode) gives a flashing indicator light, which my manual says indicates that the lid is no closed.

no obvious obstructions on the locking mechanism and the lid test looks like it works in manual test mode.
 
Thanks for your reply, Jake. The latch hardware looks fine by visual inspection. I broke out the multimeter and here is what I see when I take out the wiring harness that connects to the J6 position and test the resistance in the lid latch side (the cable, not the board)


Screenshot_20221120-154019.png


Red wire to white wire: open circuit
Red wire to blue wire: open circuit
Blue wire to white wire: 99 ohms

And on the board side: all open circuit.

Expected based on technical service manual:
Screenshot_20221120-153618.png

So I'm confused. Forgive my complete lack of electronics experience. Blue and white have the value is guess I expected for blue and red.

What do you think?
 
Also wondering if anyone does component level repairs on the control boards… it seems overkill to replace a whole board if it’s only a bad capacitor or something…
 
With the lid switch locked you should have 0 ohms between J6-1 to J6-2 did that measure 0 ohms when it was locked?

Also wondering if anyone does component level repairs on the control boards… it seems overkill to replace a whole board if it’s only a bad capacitor or something…
There is no schematics for doing board level repairs, or else Maytag would provide that info, you just will need to replace the control board if its bad. Or go washer shopping.
 
I'm a little confused-- am I supposed to manually lock the lid in manual diagnostic mode and then unplug the J6 connector and test the leads on the switch side (not the board side)?
 
Circling back on this: I replaced the lid lock and now I do not get any lid lock errors (or any errors) when I run the automated diagnostic. HOWEVER, I the washing machine begins a "normal" wash things seem fine at first-- it senses, adds water, and then transitions to the "wash" part of the cycle, which goes fine at first, but then the machine just keeps adding a little more water, then agitating, adding water, then agitating, after quite some time, the machine gives up and the wash light flashes with water and soap still in the tub.

So it's still not fixed. I checked the input water lines, which seem fine and unobstructed.

Any ideas? Nothing is showing up on the diagnostic, but there is clearly a problem.

Is it time for that new control board?
 
I'm a little confused-- am I supposed to manually lock the lid in manual diagnostic mode and then unplug the J6 connector and test the leads on the switch side (not the board side)?
That's a good question, the service manual is not clear on that, you can try it and see.

Circling back on this: I replaced the lid lock and now I do not get any lid lock errors (or any errors) when I run the automated diagnostic. HOWEVER, I the washing machine begins a "normal" wash things seem fine at first-- it senses, adds water, and then transitions to the "wash" part of the cycle, which goes fine at first, but then the machine just keeps adding a little more water, then agitating, adding water, then agitating, after quite some time, the machine gives up and the wash light flashes with water and soap still in the tub.

So it's still not fixed. I checked the input water lines, which seem fine and unobstructed.

Any ideas? Nothing is showing up on the diagnostic, but there is clearly a problem.

Is it time for that new control board?
Yes possibly, Here's the main control board for your model: Control Board W11116592

Here's another person that had this similar problem with your exact same model number:
 
I purchased a used control board, but the seller sent me one that is supposedly interchangeable with the one that came out of my machine. The sockets that connect the knobs (one wiring harness handles temp and load size, the other wiring harness controls extra rinse and fabric softener dispenser) are in a flipped orientation on the supposedly interchangeable board.

Have you seen this before, Jake (or anyone)?

I posted a second thread asking about interchangeable control boards that has photos on of the exact components on the board that are flipped.

The retention tabs only click into place if I plug the harnesses in with the "flipped" orientation.
Wondering if I can simply plug it in this way and go.
 
Well, I'm back.

I replaced the lid lock and the control board. My washing machine still does not exist sensing mode and move to wash. The machine senses for a long time, adding water, agitating, adding, agitating, etc until there is like 8-10 inches of water in the basket. The sensing light goes off then comes back on, the sensing resumes, it does this for like half an hour, then it just gives up. When I cancel the cycle it drains.

When I ran auto diagnostic mode after installing/calibration there was no error. After a failed cycle, there is no error. But obviously there is an error since I still have a washing machine full of water that never advanced to "wash." Not sure if it matters but my load was minimal, just a pillowcase.

Any ideas @Jake ?
 
That's very odd, does all the MANUAL TESTS work fine in the tech. data sheet?

Did you test the shift actuator per the tech. data sheet too? That can also cause this issue.

Here's the shift actuator for your model, if needed:
W10913953 Actuator
 

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