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NE58H9970WS Samsung induction range not holding oven temperature

paaschjc

Premium Member
Joined
Feb 18, 2017
Messages
10
Location
CT
Model Number
NE58H9970WS
Brand
Samsung
Age
Less than 1 year
I have the NE58H9970WS samsung induction range. Bought March 2016. Oven hasn't worked properly since we bought it. Preheats fine to lets say 425. You then put food in it and temp drops to 350 because door was opened. It quickly regains to about 378 and then just starts dropping again all the way to 350 and after one hour, it has only come back up to 358. We've already replaced the main control board, the sensor and the lower heating element but the problem remains. I can hear the clicking telling the heating element to come on and then it seems to click again right away to turn it back off. The heating element does come on but only for a moment and then gets turned off again. Service technicians can't figure it out.
This does not appear to be a problem at lower temperatures of let's say 325 or 350.
Any help or ideas would be appreciated. Also, where could I get a service manual for this model?
 

rickgburton

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OK, this oven is less than a year old so I assume Samsung is attempting to repair it under the first year warranty. So you're saying the service technicians can't find the problem? If that's the case, you should have some options. Most service techs agree Samsung and LG are the two worst appliance manufactures today. If Samsung can't fix it they have to replace it, correct??
 

paaschjc

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Feb 18, 2017
Messages
10
Location
CT
Sorry, I should have been more specific. Yes, it is covered under warranty (thank God). After 5 months and 7 service visits, Samsung has finally decided to cut it's loses, deem it unrepairable and give us a refund. THey are allowing us to "dispose of the unit at our convenience". We've decided that we are going to keep using it for now (range part works fine) as we are waiting for the town to finish putting in a natural gas line along our street and bringing it to the house and at that point we may consider switching to gas. SO until then we're stuck with this oven and I was hoping I could somehow figure out how to make it work. Seems like there HAS to be a way to fix it. All the repair guys we've had come out had never seen this unit before and really did not seem to know what they are talking about. My husband is an engineer and fix it all guy so figured it couldn't hurt to take a crack at it. We're just wondering whether there are some other parts that could be affected that the technicians have not replaced/checked yet.
 

rickgburton

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The problem I'm having is finding any service information or tech sheet for that model. It's probably because it's too new. We're probably not going to be much help. From your description it sounds like the new sensor may be faulty. The sensor changes resistance with temperature. There could be a connection issue inside the sensor where it reaches a high temperature (metal is expanding and contracting) and sends the wrong value to the control board. This a common sensor failure across all makes. Change the sensor and see if it solves the problem. If the sensor is good the problem is on the control board (I know you replaced that also). The entire heating drive circuit is on the control board. If the igniter and control board are new and considered working correctly, then look for a pinched or broken wire between the control board and oven sensor.
 

paaschjc

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Feb 18, 2017
Messages
10
Location
CT
I don't think it is the sensor but we will test that. It would mean the original sensor was bad and now the brand new sensor is bad. Seems unlikely. PLus the problem also exists when using only the top oven, only the bottom oven or both together. (It's a flex duo model which uses a divider to split the oven or use it as one). The main PCB was replaced. Is it possible that the issue could be with the sub PCB (i.e the touch control panel)? It appears that when the oven temp drops, we can hear the clicking that should be telling the heating element to come on but then it clicks again right away which I would assume tells the element to turn off again. The touch control panel on the front has not been replaced. Is it the one that is the "brains" of the oven and the main PCB in the back just a set of relays? or is the brains of it the main board in the back? Just trying to understand what part determines what the set temp is and then compares it to the input from the sensor and decides whether to turn the element on or off. IS this the main board or the sub PCB (touch panel)?
 

rickgburton

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If I had a tech sheet or a wiring diagram I would be happy to answer your questions. Unfortunately I don't.
 

paaschjc

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Feb 18, 2017
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Location
CT
Does this help? wiring diagram.jpg
 

paaschjc

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Feb 18, 2017
Messages
10
Location
CT
Ran another test the other day using only the top oven in convection mode (not true convection so no heating element around the fan). Set to 425. Recalibrated to heat 35 degrees higher. pre-heated fine to 448. I put the food in and watched the temp drop to 340. In the process I could hear the clicking telling the broil element to come on and it lasted 8 seconds and then click sounded and it turned off again. Element on top never turned orange so didn't produce much heat. Temp in oven stabilized at 340/341. Ever time the element turned on, it would start to increase to about 341 and then it turned off again and temp dropped back to 340. IT would just keep doing this. So element is definitely working and it comes on just fine. Problem seems to be that something is telling the oven to turn the element off again right away even though oven is not at the correct temperature. There clearly seems to be a problem with the feedback loop. Would this be something that is controlled by the sub PCB? It's the only part that has not been replaced yet. I can't imagine it's a problem with the main board as this would mean we've had 2 bad main boards. Cna't be sensor either because that would mean both sensors have to be bad which seems unlikely and the bottom sensor was replaced. Besides, the oven preheats perfectly which would suggest that the sensors are fine. If I need to replace the sub PCB, what parts would I need for this. IS it just a simple board or is it more complicated because of the touch screen?
 

rickgburton

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Well, I see their wire diagrams are about as good as their appliances. Take a look at this section of your wire diagram. I can't see (or read) the wire markings that come off the elements and look like they disappear into another dimension. Can you tell me what they are and if you see the same markings anywhere else on your wire diagram. Is that the only diagram you have? Give me the part number of the board you replaced.
wires.jpg
 

paaschjc

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Feb 18, 2017
Messages
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Location
CT
LOL. That's because they don't actually WANT you to be able to fix it.
Yes, that is the board that was replaced. #DE92-02439K

I found a service manual for a model very similar to ours. Appears to have the same oven but the top is electric instead of induction. Wire diagram appears to be the same.
Here is the link:*********

If you download it, you can zoom in on the diagram. The markings you were asking about are W7, W6, W5, W4, W3 from top to bottom. No idea where those are coming from.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

paaschjc

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Feb 18, 2017
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CT
another update. It appears now the lower oven is working accurately (the technician replaced the oven sensors on the bottom only. at least that's what the paperwork says). THe top still does not work correctly and when I use the oven as a whole without the divider, it does not work correctly either. Now, I am 95% sure that the bottom was not working correctly before so I thought maybe it really is a problem with the sensors and the bottom works because that sensor was replaced and all I needed to do was replace the top sensors. So we ran another test and switched the bottom sensors to the top and vice versa. problem remained the same. Top oven does not work correctly. Bottom oven works fine. Now I am stumped again. Any thoughts?
 

rickgburton

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I wasn't able to download the service manual without paying for it and creating an account. It might not be as simple as just switching the sensors for testing. It depends on how they are wired to the main board and how the board uses the information from the sensors. You should replace the top sensor anyways and see what happens, unless it's already been replaced. They're not that expensive are they? What part number do you have for the sensor?
 

paaschjc

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Feb 18, 2017
Messages
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Can I send you the manual I have, maybe via email or something? I tried to see if I could upload it here but couldn't figure it out. HOwever, I think the part is the same for the top sensor and the bottom sensor, so why couldn't I swap them for testing?

The part number of the sensor that was replaced is:

I think the top sensor would be the same one but I am not 100% certain. Hard to find part information.
 

rickgburton

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paaschjc said:
Lots of bells and whistles on their high priced products but still made out of cheap junk.
LG and Samsung used a pretty good marketing strategy on consumers. Make it pretty and expensive and it will sell. It's a mindset that most people have built in. When I go shopping for something I automatically assume the more expensive it is the better it is. Especially if it's a lot more expensive. I don't assume it's better if the price is higher but close to others but if it's a lot more expensive I assume the reason is, it must be better. Other consumer products are catching on to this strategy.

OK, I had a chance to go over the manual. Here's what I've found:

1- Reading Samsung manuals for longer than a few minutes will give you a severe headache.
2- All the elements are connected to the main board and have a common connection.
3- Both sensors are also connected to the main board.
4- 120 VAC is always present at CN101
5- The SUB PC is connected to the main board CN201 for communication voltage

I mapped out the board and marked all the test points for you. When checking the door, door lock and partition switch (CN702) remove power. Here's another reason to hate Samsung I started mapping this and cross checking between components at 10:30PM and it's now 2:05AM
NE58F9710-NE58F9500.jpg
 

paaschjc

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Messages
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Location
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Thank you so much Rick. I really appreciate all your hard work. I have no idea what to do with this information but I hope my husband can figure it out. We've been busy and now sick so hopefully we will get around to it on the weekend.
 

Old Fixer

Member
Joined
Mar 27, 2018
Messages
1
Location
Montana
Any fixes for Samsung oven yet

LG and Samsung used a pretty good marketing strategy on consumers. Make it pretty and expensive and it will sell. It's a mindset that most people have built in. When I go shopping for something I automatically assume the more expensive it is the better it is. Especially if it's a lot more expensive. I don't assume it's better if the price is higher but close to others but if it's a lot more expensive I assume the reason is, it must be better. Other consumer products are catching on to this strategy.

OK, I had a chance to go over the manual. Here's what I've found:

1- Reading Samsung manuals for longer than a few minutes will give you a severe headache.
2- All the elements are connected to the main board and have a common connection.
3- Both sensors are also connected to the main board.
4- 120 VAC is always present at CN101
5- The SUB PC is connected to the main board CN201 for communication voltage

I mapped out the board and marked all the test points for you. When checking the door, door lock and partition switch (CN702) remove power. Here's another reason to hate Samsung I started mapping this and cross-checking between components at 10:30PM and it's now 2:05AM
View attachment 32443

:wall: It's been about a year since you posted this information and a testing diagram, but there were no further reports. Your educated guess at that time was that there was something wrong in the broiler heating circuit loop that shut it off after 7 seconds before it could offer any significant reheating. Have you figured a repair or a workaround for this? I was wondering about manually flipping it back to broil to restart it.
 

scndrl

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Joined
Aug 25, 2018
Messages
2
Location
Canada
I found the solution to the oven temperature not holding and taking too long to preheat. After the appliance repair guy gave up and designated out range as unrepairable, The extended warranty paid us out the full price that we had paid for the range, $2800.00 and did not want the range back. I thought, I have nothing to lose and started checking all the wiring and looking at the main board in the back of the range.

Low and behold, two wires were attached incorrectly from the factory.

Here is the solution(Disconnect Power to the range first!!!). The two wire connector on T503 and T504 needs to be moved to T504 and T505. The single connector on T505 needs to be moved to T503. If you look at the indicators on the board that tell you what the wire colors should be at those terminals, the errors will be obvious.

Anyway, I switched the two plugs and everything now works perfectly. Oven heats to 350 in 10 minutes because the broil element was not coming on before. Also there is no longer a temperature drop. I've read countless complaints from people that have the same issues and no apparent fix. Hope someone reads this and it helps solve their oven problems. It sure made me smile!
 

rickgburton

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We appreciate the information. Thanks! Must have been a friday at the factory....lol
 

Anna l

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Oct 29, 2019
Messages
1
Location
San Jose
I'm having the same problem it technician came out last month and said it was normal it is not normal especially when you are baking I called today I have another technician come out I'm tired of this I think I just like to get a new stove but not a Samsung I imagine the people are following my sister also has the same stove and is also noticed that problem too
 
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