FIXED NED4600YQ1 Amana Dryer not heating

[Fluelikesymptoms]

Model Number

NED4600YQ1

Brand

Amana

Age

6-10 years

I had a prior thread where the dryer was getting to hot because of a cycling thermostat. Replacing that thermostat fixed that issue a few months ago. However a new problem has started, it wont heat at all.

The readings I have so far

9.8 ohms of resistance on the heating element
.05 ohms on the thermostat
.07 ohms on the cycling thermostat

Lately I have started to not trust continuity readings so I did the unsuggested

There is 120volts going into and out of the heating element, with a voltage drop of .001v between the two ends.

I also have about 112volts going into and out of both thermostats.

This thing should be heating and it's not, its ice cold. The heating element is not getting hot at all, I'm started to think it has gone bad somehow even though everything is testing fine.

What would be the next thing to check for?

 

[Fluelikesymptoms]

Okay so apparently the dryer needs all 240 to the heating element so that makes me feel better. I'm going to assume that the 120 I'm reading is constant, that means I need to figure out why I not getting the other 120, timer maybe?

 

[bigbuck]

Putting tech sheet for the guys to help you.

 

[Jake]

Thanks BB!

First turn the breaker off to your dryer, OR unplug it from the wall, then open the little access cover where the power cord connects to your dryer's terminal block, and see if any of the screws are loose or burnt on the terminal block.

I see that happen a lot, look here:
(click to enlarge)


If the wires are just loose, just tighten them down.

If the wires are burnt you will need to order this kit:
279320 Terminal Block Kit


Video included in part link.

If the terminal block wires are fine, then plug the dryer back in, OR turn the breaker ON, Then you would need to check for 240 volts at the terminal block with a multimeter.

Many times I've seen just 120 volts coming in, not 240 volts, thus your dryer motor will run, but not heat.

Put your multimeter leads on both ends of the terminal block, it should read 240 volts.

Remember Black & Red on the ends are HOT, White in the middle is NEUTRAL

Then put one of your meter leads in the middle of your terminal block and one on the end you should read 120 volts, then on the other end you should read 120 volts as well.

Let us know what you find.

Jake

 

[Fluelikesymptoms]

Thank you guys for the responses.

I had checked the main feeds and can confirm there is 240 volts and a good neutral. I am currently at work so I apologize for the late response

 

[Jake]

Ok, did you ohm test your thermal cut-off? If that's bad it will not heat either.

Here's the thermal cut-off for your model, it includes your hi-limit thermostat as well, that MUST be changed too:
279816 Thermal Fuse(aka Thermal Cut-Off Kit)


Here is a photo of the back of your dryer without the back access panel on, the thermal cut-off is #1 here:

Unplug your dryer first before removing the back access panel and parts testing!

Watch this video for how its supposed to be installed:

Let us know what you find.

Jake

 

[Fluelikesymptoms]

Thanks Jake, the cutoff fuse was bypassed when we bought the dryer. I have a new fuse but haven't gotten to getting new terminals to install it. I checked that the bypass wasnt making bad contact by isolating that red wire by unplugged the coupler from the timer and the red white wire from the operating thermostat and checked for resistance. I forget the exact ohms but it was very little I want to say something along .07 ohms. I then did the same thing to try to eliminate any faults between terminal A and the hi-limit thermostat. Same thing, good continuity. I then started looking into the L2 feed and realizing that the red wire going to the heating element was coming from a switch in the motor, I took the lazy way out. I unplugged everything from the heating element and tested the end of that red wire while the dryer was running. It read 122 volts. While I was down there I checked for voltage coming from the other red wire from the operating thermostat and read little volts. It was around 6 volts. Correct me if I'm wrong but if I have the timer set to a heating setting I should have 120 volts at there at all times, and the other 120 volts comes from the motor when it's running, L2 side?

I started to tinker with the timer and noticed that I could never get a closed circuit between terminals C and A. I was able to get good continuity between all the other terminals when applicable, including terminals C and B. When everything is plugged up I get 120 volts at terminal A. With everything unplugged at the element I only had 6 volts at terminal A, I am assuming the 120 was L2 backfeed.

Does this sound like anything to you?

 

[Jake]

So your not getting the 120 volts from the timer, so that indicates the timer is bad.

Here's the timer for your model:
W11043389 Timer


Jake

 

[Fluelikesymptoms]

There should be continuity between terminals C and A when the timer is set to high heat right?

Thank you Jake

 

[Fluelikesymptoms]

There was also another question I had, I dont mean to over complicate things but it was a thought.

With the timer set to auto-regular I closed the circuit between terminals T and X. I check this by checking for voltage at the orange wire and read 120v. The black wire that goes to the timer motor splices into the main black L1 wire. When I probed terminals X and F, or T and F, I got a voltage reading of 240 volts.

I then went down the to heating element and unplugged everything. When I probed the orange wire, and the L2 red wire, I read 240 volts, unplugged. Hows come when I plug the orange wire and that red wire into the heating element it doesnt heat up? I would think I could bypass that main l1 feed through the timer motor?

Just a thought, curious if you had an awnser

 

[Jake]

LOL, Don't overthink this, it's very simple.

Dryer runs but doesn't heat is very easy to diagnose. Remove the back panel, the console back panel and the cover over the power cord terminal block. Remove the wire on the heating element that comes from the motor. Position it so it's out of the way and doesn't touch anything. Use black tape if necessary. Set the dryer on timed dry about 40 minutes and select high heat. Start the dryer. Set your meter to measure Volts AC and start with the dryer terminal block. Check for 240 Volts AC between L1 (black wires) and L2 (red wires).

If the voltage is correct measure the voltage between the wire you just disconnected from the element and ground (any metal cabinet screw). If the voltage is 0 the motor switch is bad. If the voltage is 120 VAC, measure the voltage between the same disconnected wire from the element and R (red wire) on the timer. If your meter indicates 240 Volts AC either the high limit thermostat, cycling thermostat, or thermal cut off is bad. If your meter indicates 0 Volts AC, the timer is bad.

Jake

 

[Fluelikesymptoms]

Yes jake it was definently the timer. I pulled the timer off tonight and took a look at it. The pads on the contacts for terminals B and A were practically gone. I was able to swap one of the timer option terminals (my dryer didnt use these) into terminal A and cleaned up the contact for terminal B. The dryer is now working as normal.

I still plan on ordering a new timer friday because I am questioning how long this repair will last. The terminal I got from one of the timer options had smaller pads than what the original pad on A looked like. It makes me wonder if the fresh pad can handle the current or if it will prematurely start to arc and melt like the original A terminal.

Is it possible to order just a new terminal/contact for A and B ?

 

[Jake]

Excellent, good find!

Is it possible to order just a new terminal/contact for A and B ?

Nope, they don't see that separately. Your better off ordering the new timer anyways for the long run.

Jake

 

[Irsalan1]

Hi Jake, I found this thread. I am having a similar problem—dryer runs but won’t heat.

I followed your instructions and got a 0V from the element to the cabinet ground. You said that indicates the motor switch is bad. What is the motor switch?
By the way, I have a AMANA NED4700YQ0 model

 

[Jake]

Hi Jake, I found this thread. I am having a similar problem—dryer runs but won’t heat.

I followed your instructions and got a 0V from the element to the cabinet ground. You said that indicates the motor switch is bad. What is the motor switch?
By the way, I have a AMANA NED4700YQ0 model

The motor switch is inside the motor, you'd need to order and replace the motor to get the new motor switch.

Here's the motor for your model(Video Included):
279827 Dryer Drive Motor