FIXED NED5500TQ0 Dryer won't start (Possibly the start button?)

OUberLord

Premium Member
Joined
Mar 14, 2017
Messages
4
Location
Midwest, USA
Model Number
NED5500TQ0
Brand
Amana
Age
6-10 years
I've found my dryer to be inoperable today, and have started the troubleshooting process. What was found was that while the light in the barrel comes on, and the door switch seems to operate properly, the dryer will not start when the start button is pressed and a valid setting is on the dial.

Here's what I've done so far:

Thermal switch: Tested for continuity (got good tone from my multimeter, didn't check resistance). Seems to test ok.

Start switch: Tested for continuity from one of the side terminals to the "middle" terminal. Exact part is this: WP3398094

Here's where I get slightly out of my depth. It appears that I can get continuity when I am testing the normally open circuit and the button is pressed. Additionally, I do not when the button is released.

However, I do not get any continuity across the normally closed circuit, regardless of the state of the button.

Does this indicate a bad switch? In theory the button press action still completes a circuit, but I don't know if the fact that I'm not getting continuity across the button released state means anything or not.

Barring that, I'm wondering what else might be at fault. I tried different positions on the dial, but regardless when I push the start button nothing happens (noise, motion, or otherwise).
 
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rickgburton

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That's not the model number. Be sure to read it from the tag on the machine. Click here: http://www.repairclinic.com/ then follow the link “Help me find my model number”.
 

rickgburton

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OK, first, measure the voltage at the power cord connection across L1 (black wires) and L2 (red wires). If your meter indicates 220 VAC unplug the machine and remove the back panel. Check the thermal fuse on the blower housing for continuity. Always remove one wire from the component you're checking for continuity. If the thermal fuse checks good check the thermal cutoff on the top of the element housing for continuity.

If the TCO checks good check the PTS switch. The PTS switch is actually a relay. Contact points are R1 and R2 and are open when the button is out and closed with the button in. A magnetic field is created between R1 and CT1 and holds the contacts closed when the button is released. The switch diagram is on the side of the switch.
PTS Relay.jpg

Thermal Fuse WP3392519
Thermal-Fuse-WP3392519-01993779.jpg

Start Switch WP3398094
Start-Switch-WP3398094-01708909.jpg
 

OUberLord

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Messages
4
Location
Midwest, USA
I have not checked the voltage across L1 / L2 yet, but I did see that the unit was at least getting some power to it as the light inside the drum illuminated when the door was opened. I'll still check that later on, if only to check off that box.

I wasn't previously aware of the thermal cutoff, but both the thermal cutoff and the thermal fuse both appear to have proper conductivity when unplugged and tested.

The PTS switch is where I'm a bit unsure of. Should I have conductivity between R1 and CT1 when the button is released? If so, this relay may be at fault, because I do not get conductivity across any pair of contacts when the button is in a released state. I do however get conductivity across R1 and R2 when the button is pressed.
 
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rickgburton

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I marked everything on the switch in the diagram I made for you in my last post. Can't you see it? I think certain mobile devices don't show the images.
 

OUberLord

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Ah, I do see that now. When I measure R1 to CT1 I get about 1700 Ohms, and conductivity behavior matches the diagram exactly. With that, it seems that the thermal fuse, thermal cutoff, and PTS switch/relay can be ruled out as the culprits.

I appreciate your help. What components remain that could prevent the unit from starting at all? Is there a straightforward way to verify the timer dial is working properly?
 

rickgburton

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With that, it seems that the thermal fuse, thermal cutoff, and PTS switch/relay can be ruled out as the culprits.
Think about that for a minute. If the PTS switch is good, just the opposite, it leaves one of the others as the likely culprit. Most likely the thermal fuse or timer. The link is also in that post #4.

If the PTS and thermal fuse are good, then replace the timer:
WP3979617 Timer
 

ekztal

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Oct 8, 2019
Messages
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Location
Mankato, MN
Hello! I have the exact same model dryer and the exact same problem. I hope it's okay to bump this thread and I'd hate to start another identical thread if this one was never resolved.

I followed a troubleshooting guide on another site and have already:

  1. Verify 220V going to the dryer
  2. Tested for continuity in thermal fuse. There was continuity.
  3. Tested my start relay, (R1+R2 open circuit when the button is out and closed when pressed)
  4. Replaced the motor (This was the next step in the guide I was using)
This didn't solve the problem. I can plug in the dryer turn the timer to an on state and hit start. I hear the relay click on but nothing happens. I turn the timer to Off and hear the timer relay reset. Then I can repeat the process with the same results.

Also If I leave the door open and hit the start button I don't hear the relay doesn't click, but if I close it and hit start it does click.

I also tried bypassing the relay by jumping the R1+R2 in the start relay connector.
 
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rickgburton

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I don't have a wiring diagram for that model so I can't give you specific wires but I think I can help you. We're troubleshooting a dryer that won't start, correct? Set the timer on timed dry about 40 minutes. and select air fluff/no heat. L1 is supplied to the motor through the timer. As soon as you turn the timer into a cycle L1 is supplied to the M4 terminal on the motor switch. The neutral side is supplied to the motor through the door switch to one side of the PTS switch and down to the motor switch but because the motor is not running it's an open circuit. On the other side of the PTS switch the neutral wire goes down to the motor switch where both the start windings and run windings are energized. When the motor reaches 70% of its operating speed the motor switch (centrifugal switch) switches off the start windings and onto that wire coming from the PTS. Now that the motor is running it's a complete circuit. When you release the PTS switch that breaks the circuit to the run and start windings:
Motor.jpg
 

ekztal

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Location
Mankato, MN
I guess there was a wiring diagram taped to my dryer. I scanned it in I believe should be able to use my meter to test the different terminals in the timer switch?

scan-small.png
 

rickgburton

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OK your PTS switch uses a coil to hold the contacts closed for L1. Use the same settings, so you should have continuity on the timer BK to BU, TM to OR, and T to W. Make sure the thermal fuse is good
 

ekztal

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OK your PTS switch uses a coil to hold the contacts closed for L1. Use the same settings, so you should have continuity on the timer BK to BU, TM to OR, and T to W. Make sure the thermal fuse is good
I wasn't getting continuity on T to W at any setting. I took off the timer and it rattles. A quick and EXPENSIVE stop at my local hardware store and I'm up and running.

Why does my wiring diagram have 2 T - W for the Timer Switch? One shows open for most positions and and one shows closed?

Thanks for helping. I should have paid more attention and noticed this wiring diagram taped into the console in the first place
 

ekztal

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Location
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I actually just took the timer apart and see a round copper piece that came off of the end of the copper contact that goes to terminal T and there is a bunch of charring.

20191010_174302.png
 

rickgburton

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I use to get a semi-truck load of used appliances every day with the majority being Whirlpool or Kenmore. When I got a newer or nice looking dryer the timer was alway bad and expensive to replace. I started rebuilding them and stockpiling timer points. If you see yours I'll send it to you:
Picture 22.jpg
Picture 24.jpg
 
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