NED5800HW1 Amana Dryer Faulting Out with E2 F6

[zjennings1016]

Model Number

NED5800HW1

Brand

Amana

Age

Less than 1 year

I have an Amana Dryer NED5800HW1 that is faulted out. I believe a blocked vent caused the issue (now cleared). Although it would heat, it wasn't getting the clothes dry. Now it faults out on E2 F6. I've opened it up and been trying to check continuity/resistance across the various fuses/thermistors.

The only thing I can find that seems questionable is the high-limit thermostat/thermistor. There's continuity on the main spades, but the two smaller pins seem to have a high resistance reading. They are reading 50,000ohm. As I understand it, the reading should be around 5,000ohm. Is that indeed an indicator that it is a failed part? It's hard to get specific info on what resistance it should have.

Thanks for any input!
Zack

 

[Jake]

Hi Zack, Here's your tech data sheet: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1qW8IT6F3UpVrbfGzDV0H_6PYBZRfTgNu/view?usp=sharing

I only see F6 E2:

That's the inlet thermistor:
WP8557403


Look on Page 18 and 19 and shows you how to test it, and the ohms/temperature chart.

Jake

 

[Jake]

You posted the AGE of your dryer as Less then 1 year old, if that's correct, its under warranty, let Amana come out and fix it for free under warranty.

Jake

 

[zjennings1016]

ah good point I didn't even think of that. I may pursue that if it comes to it.

If I'm understanding correctly this part is a thermistor/thermostat assembly? Like you mentioned based on page 18, looks like it should be around 12k ohms on the thermistor. I'm getting 50kohms. Got the part ordered so will see what happens.

Thanks for all the input! super helpful!
Zack

 

[Jake]

Look at the inlet thermistor chart, at 77 degrees F it should be about 50k ohms.

Jake

 

[zjennings1016]

bummer! I was looking at the outlet instead of the inlet chart. I think I might jus take it in lol. more troubleshooting than I think I want to get into right now.

Around the time it stopped working, there was a lot of steam built up in the dryer (with the outlet duct being blocked) so much so that there was moisture in the display screen. Do you think it probably just fried the HMI?

 

[Jake]

Do you think it probably just fried the HMI?

Possibly yes, either the HMI or ACU. You can run those tests I posted above, or take it to a appliance repair shop, or have a tech. come out.

Jake

 

[zjennings1016]

I decided to look at it myself. He's closed today anyway.

Test #1
- Verified there's 240 volts to the dryer
- The green light came on the ACU when put power to dryer (although the green light never stayed lit. it jus kept flashing)
- Verified 120VAC across J8-3 and J9-2
- Verified 5 VDC across J2-4 and J2-2
- Verified there's 12.7VDC (actually ~13V) across J2-1 and J2-4

And then the test ends. So would that indicate the HMI is bad?

Zack

 

[zjennings1016]

Ugh expensive if that’s what it is.

Unfortunately, I think might be just out of warranty. Still trying to find out for certain…

 

[Jake]

Clear your fault code first and see what happens.

Page 8--->Clearing Fault Codes
To clear stored fault codes, enter Service Diagnostic mode. Then press and hold the 3rd button used to enter Service Diagnostic mode for 5 seconds. Once the stored fault codes are successfully erased, the seven segment display will show “888”.

Here's the HMI for your model: Cntrl-Elec W11378950

TEST #1: ACU Power Check
This test is used to determine if power is
present at the machine control electronics.
This test assumes that proper voltage is
present at the outlet.
1. Verify that the green LED on the ACU is lit when the dryer is turned on.
NOTE: It is important to verify that the System is not in “Low Power” mode. If the HMI is working correctly, it will “wake up” the System after powering up and pressing POWER.
To verify, unplug dryer or disconnect power for 60 seconds. Plug in dryer or reconnect power.
Press POWER. If the ACU comes up (i.e., the green LED in the center of the ACU flashes and then stays lit after boot-up is complete) but the HMI doesn’t, there may be a problem with the HMI.
2. Unplug dryer or disconnect power.
3. Check for appropriate line voltages at the outlet: 240 VAC (electric 2-phase), 208 VAC (electric 3-phase), or 120 VAC (gas).
 If line voltage is present, go to step 4.
 If line voltage is not present, check for tripped circuit breaker or blown household fuse. If CB (circuit breaker) is not tripped, have customer check with qualified electrician.
4. Remove top panel to access the machine electronics.

Jake