BassTone5
Premium Member
- Model Number
- 110.23832100
Hello, all!
I’m very new here, so please redirect me if I’m posting in the wrong place.
I have a Kenmore 80 Series top-loading washer built around 2002 as I’ve gleaned from the “M” in the second place of the serial number, based on an online search. Bought it used, six years ago and have not had a problem until recently. Had the lid switch replaced by a professional about 8 months back for a jaw dropping $113 for a sub-$10 part, so I’m hoping to fix this myself. I’m mechanically inclined and have plenty of tools, so I hope it’s within reasonable reach of my skills. Do advise accordingly after reading on.
OK, so my wife has been noting that the washer goes through the full washing cycle properly - as far as she can tell - but things go wrong in the rinse. What she has witnessed on many occasions as of late, is that once the Rinse cycle engages it fills with clean water just fine, agitates as it should, drains as it should, but DOES NOT spin out - YET, the command dial continues to the full “OFF” position. When this happens, she manually turns the command dial to the “2nd Rinse” cycle somewhere in between “Rinse” and “Spin” to try and get the washer to spin. This band-aid fix works most times, but not always. When it doesn’t, she turns the command dial all the way around back to the mid point of the “2nd Rinse” and tries again.
Things to consider here:
1. Lighter loads are less likely to see this problem occur, but do not prevent it.
2. Larger loads increase the likelihood of the problem, but don’t ensure that it will occur.
3. “Permanent Press” setting is more likely to see the problem occur, but doesn’t ensure it.
4. “Ultra Clean” setting is less likely to see the problem, but does not prevent it.
5. When problem occurs, the motor quits running completely after agitation in the Rinse cycle. The only other sound heard is the a click from the command dial as it works its way around to the "OFF" position.
My research points me in the direction of the drive coupling or possibly the clutch, by I'm nowhere near certain of anything here. I don’t want to proceed with buying parts when I’m not 100% on the cause of the problem. Any help or advice anyone can give me would be greatly appreciated!
Many thanks!
-John
I’m very new here, so please redirect me if I’m posting in the wrong place.
I have a Kenmore 80 Series top-loading washer built around 2002 as I’ve gleaned from the “M” in the second place of the serial number, based on an online search. Bought it used, six years ago and have not had a problem until recently. Had the lid switch replaced by a professional about 8 months back for a jaw dropping $113 for a sub-$10 part, so I’m hoping to fix this myself. I’m mechanically inclined and have plenty of tools, so I hope it’s within reasonable reach of my skills. Do advise accordingly after reading on.
OK, so my wife has been noting that the washer goes through the full washing cycle properly - as far as she can tell - but things go wrong in the rinse. What she has witnessed on many occasions as of late, is that once the Rinse cycle engages it fills with clean water just fine, agitates as it should, drains as it should, but DOES NOT spin out - YET, the command dial continues to the full “OFF” position. When this happens, she manually turns the command dial to the “2nd Rinse” cycle somewhere in between “Rinse” and “Spin” to try and get the washer to spin. This band-aid fix works most times, but not always. When it doesn’t, she turns the command dial all the way around back to the mid point of the “2nd Rinse” and tries again.
Things to consider here:
1. Lighter loads are less likely to see this problem occur, but do not prevent it.
2. Larger loads increase the likelihood of the problem, but don’t ensure that it will occur.
3. “Permanent Press” setting is more likely to see the problem occur, but doesn’t ensure it.
4. “Ultra Clean” setting is less likely to see the problem, but does not prevent it.
5. When problem occurs, the motor quits running completely after agitation in the Rinse cycle. The only other sound heard is the a click from the command dial as it works its way around to the "OFF" position.
My research points me in the direction of the drive coupling or possibly the clutch, by I'm nowhere near certain of anything here. I don’t want to proceed with buying parts when I’m not 100% on the cause of the problem. Any help or advice anyone can give me would be greatly appreciated!
Many thanks!
-John