No filling -- WFW9150WW01 (Whirlpool Duet) Washer

[itsmdude]

Model Number

WFW9150WW01

Brand

Whirlpool

Age

6-10 years

So I have an interesting problem that I thought some of you might be able to advise me on.

My Whirlpool Duet (WFW9150WW01) stopped in the middle of the spin cycle.

The door stayed locked. I powered off, ran diagnostics. got F8E1, cleared the code, powered off, ran a rinse cycle and it added water and then drained but didn't spin.

I powered off again and did a rinse & spin cycle without the extra rinse. It drained but didn't refill or spin

Ran automated diagnostic procedure and it stops at "door locked" -- no cold fill (which is the next step in the diagnostic).

At this point every time I try to run a cycle — no water. door locks and that’s it.

Will NOT unlock when I press pause.

Because I originally saw water go into the compartment, I checked the pressure switch, part #W10239066. Pins are numbered differently than the documentation. When I check #12 and 11 (1 & 3 as counted from the left when the hose nib is up) I have continuity. When I put air pressure on it, no continuity.
#14 and 11 (contacts 2&3) no continuity, but when I apply pressure, yes to continuity. So it seems ok.

Door lock: I do have continuity on DLS2-1 to DLS2-2 when it is locked, no continuity when it is manually unlocked so it seems like that’s working.

However, since I never saw water go in the compartment ever again, I checked the cold water valve (W10212596).

Continuity of VC2-2 to VH7-7 and VC2-1 to VH7-5 is fine on the harness.

Disconnected VC2-1 and VC2-2 from water valve to measure the voltage from the CCM, then ran diagnostic program, which should “Fill by cold water via bleach compartment” using VC2 and VC1 simultaneously.

Machine “off” measures .86V
Measured 11.24V during test

Did the same thing with VC1 to VH7-1, continuity is fine on the harness.

Disconnected VC1 from water valve, Checked VC1-1 and VC1-2 voltage measurement during diagnostic program.

Machine “off” measures .38V
Measured 10.7V during test

Because I saw voltage during the test, I assumed the valve was bad, so I replaced the valve.

However, I'm still having the problem. Now I'm suspecting the CCM. I don't know what the "right" voltages the CCM should be producing.

Can anyone confirm what voltage I should be seeing from CCM to the cold water switch (VC2 and VC1)?

Or, if you have other ideas, I'm all ears.

Thanks!

Corrected model number

 

[Jake]

WFW9501WW01 does not pull up as good, please recheck it.

Jake

 

[itsmdude]

@Jake, sorry! This is a WFW9150WW01 -- that was a typo, I transposed the 1 and 5.

Thanks for the response!

 

[Jake]

Thanks! I'm attaching the tech. data sheet below.

(click to enlarge)


When you have it in the diagnostics on Page 6--->Fill by cold water via bleach compartment (4 liters), you should be getting 120 volts to the COLD water inlet valve, if not then your CCU is bad. If so, then your COLD water inlet valve is bad if no water is entering the machine.

Here's the COLD water inlet valve assembly for your model:
Water Inlet Valve WPW10212596


Here's the CCU for your model:
WPW10525369 Control Unit-Central, Programmed


Watch this video to replace the COLD water inlet valve, if yours is bad:

Jake

 

[itsmdude]

Thanks @Jake! I'm getting 10v and 11v respectively when I get to that part of the diagnostic so it seems that the CCU is bad. I was hesitant to order the CCU because I didn't know if there was a step-down in the AC voltage or not. Thanks for clarifying that it should be 120v. It sure isn't!

Will order the CCU and let you know how it goes. Thanks again!

 

[Jake]

Ok, yes you should get 120 volts to the water inlet valve.

So the new CCU should fix it, let us know how it goes.

Jake

 

[itsmdude]

The new CCU fixed the water problem.

Now I’m having another problem when I run diagnostics.

I definitely am making it through step one of the diagnostic. “Fill by cold water via bleach compartment (4 liters).”

Step two is “Fill by hot water to Level_wash”. Machine is never getting past this point (I let it run for 40+ minutes before unplugging). I know the hot water switch is working because I feel the hot water hose getting hot from the water entering the washer.

I hear the drain pump going constantly. When I interrupt the test I hear the drain hose gurgle when the pump stops.

I guess my next step is to test continuity of PR6 to the pressure switch and retest the pressure switch? What do you think? Thanks.

 

[Jake]

I guess my next step is to test continuity of PR6 to the pressure switch and retest the pressure switch? What do you think?

That's what I would do.

Jake

 

[itsmdude]

I checked the wire harness from the pressure switch to the CCU. Good continuity even when I wiggle the wires.

I checked the switch again from the CCU. The only continuity when the machine is off is between pins #4 and #6. This corresponds to #12 and #11 on the pressure switch that I have. (Pic below).

I thought maybe it might that the hose was not applying pressure to the switch. So I ran diagnostics until it got to the hot water / drain then I applied pressure to the switch by gently blowing in the opening. Still didn’t stop the endless cycle.

I’m stumped. Any other ideas appreciated.

 

[Jake]

That's very strange, I'm puzzled too now.

Its best to have to have Whirlpool come out at 1-866-698-2538 to see what's going on. All Whirlpool techs have a TECH HOTLINE to the factory that they can call from your house to get to the root of the problem.

Let us know what they find.

Jake