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No power to ice maker harness


Premium Member
Sep 14, 2015
United States
Model Number
6-10 years
So recently my ice maker quit producing ice. At first I thought it was the 3 way water valve I replaced it. Then it still didn't work so I bought a new controller for the front of the ice maker replaced it. I feel really stupid not checking to see if there was even power going to the ice maker. Needless to say I checked for power coming in no power on White and Black line going into ice maker control. Noticed there what looked like a fuse on the black line going to control checked power behind fuse no power. The harness seems to be molded into the side of this unit and not replaceable. I have found no way to get to wiring past the molex connector above the water valve. Has anyone ever seen this issue. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Ohm test the in-line thermal fuse, its located on the wiring harness to the ice maker. If that in-line thermal fuse is open, then we found the problem.

Its the black wire, ohm that black wire for continuity.

The ice maker wire harness should just unsnap from the ice maker head module.

Watch this video:


Now on this model you are correct, it looks like the wire harness can't unsnap from the left side freezer wall, it goes into the wall, this is the first time I've seen this, so I will need to ask Jeff and Rick on what to do if that thermal fuse is bad, as I don't see where you can order just the wire harness with the thermal fuse.

If there is no power on the black wire for the ice maker check for continuity between the the black wire (with the fuse) and the black wire on the freezer door switch (COM). If there's no continuity, and there probably won't be if the freezer light is working, the wire is broken somewhere between the light switch and the fuse.
I couldn't find the wire harness on the parts breakdown.
Door switch is a 3 wire switch.

I couldn't find the wire harness either Jeff. I'm looking at the wire diagram for a similar model, ED5RHEX so it should be the same. The black wire from the power cord (L1) goes to a splice in the cabinet. From the splice one goes to the ice maker, one to the light switch (COM) and one to the electronic defrost control in the fresh food section. My first guess would be the grommet where it comes through the wall for the ice maker.
My first guess would be the grommet where it comes through the wall for the ice maker.
That's what I thought, but what happens when the in-line thermal fuse blows on these? How do we replace it without a part number?

Well, all the wire schematics I've looked at for similar models don't show any thermal fuse in line with the black wire.
But cpregan says there is a fuse, cpregan did you trace the wiring back to see where the power comes in from?

cpregan: It would also help us if you can scan your wiring diagram and upload it here.

You are correct Jake!

There is a fuse in the wire harness. If thermal fuse is open Ice Maker must be replaced before repairing wire harness.

Here is the fix using NTE8118 thermal fuse:
Thermal fuse ice maker harness.jpg

I'll do almost anything when bored...LOL. I checked availability at RC and APP and they don't carry it. It is available at any electronics hobby shop, Radio Shack, and Johnstone Supply.
Oh ok Rick, I'm just surprised there isn't a OEM part number for the wiring harness with the new fuse included.

As soon as I seen the wires going into the side wall instead of the back wall I knew there was no way to replace any wire harness. The sides are foamed in.
I would just use a old harness that i have a lot of from the ice maker kits and cut out the black fuse from it and splice it in the old harness.I learn years ago never throw everything out.Like all the different harness from the whirlpool ice maker replacement kit.
That's what I would probably do also. Unfortunately most of the members here don't have a supply of used parts they can use. They can always order a 2187464 harness and cut that one out and use it. It would take a day or two to get it and cost about $30 or they can follow my instructions in post #10. That will take about 30 minutes and cost about $2.
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