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NTW4600YQ0 Lid Lock LED Flashing at prewash start

henry9023

Premium Member
Joined
May 8, 2017
Messages
3
Location
Tuktoyaktuk
Model Number
NTW4600YQ0
Brand
Amana
Age
1-5 years
Hi all. I'm a new member of the forum and hope to get my washer working again.
Here's the problem:
After loading the tub and selecting load size, water temperature and wash cycle, I press start, valve solenoids begin flow of water for a few seconds, lid locks, I hear the shifter move but then the lid lock begins to blink and continues blinking for 5 minutes then turns off. Then the washer continues the wash cycle but will not agitate or spin. The tub drains but not completely and when the cycle indicates complete, clothes are still wet and I have to manually place the selector to drain/spin. It used to go into a spin and drain but now it just drains without spinning.
These are the tests that I have done.
In the Service diagnostic tests,
1. Fault display mode-Fault/Error code is F7E1. Basket Speed Sensor Fault.
2.Automatic test mode- completes up to motor spin but fails motor spin. lid lock blinks and stays on for 5 minutes then test won't go further with auto test mode.
3.Manual Test Mode- All manual tests pass except High Spin test. Shifter activates then LEDs begin blinking and tub does not spin. Tub spins in Low Spin test but not in High Spin test.
4.Tach Verification mode- When tub is rotated slowly by hand, RPM remains at 0 (cycle done). LEDs do not progressively light up indicating to me optical sensor fault.
The other #3a and #3b tests,- harness shifter to main control continuity tests I did not do.
So far, all indications point to a faulty optical sensor in the shifter assembly and may only require that I change the shifter assembly.
Can I get verification on that? I live out in the boonies and it would cost 2 arms and 2 legs to get a service repair person up here.

Thanks in Advance.

Henry
 

henry9023

Premium Member
Joined
May 8, 2017
Messages
3
Location
Tuktoyaktuk
I have just discovered that if I select a small wash load and Normal regular wash cycle, the lid lock remains on, the tub fills and agitates then during the rinse cycle the lid lock starts to blink but after it stops blinking and unlocks the lid, I hit the pause button and then resume, the lid locks again and the cycle continues with the rinse/drain cycle. In the final spin cycle, the lid lock starts to blink again until it stops and unlocks the lid, then I hit the pause/resume again to begin the final spin/drain. During the final spin/drain cycle the lid lock blinks for 5 minutes after which I pause/resume, then it goes to the cycle completed LED and the lid unlocks.
I'm almost positive that the optical sensor not detecting RPM is to blame here.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
109,119
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Wait, you said the tub drains but not completely? It should drain completely, did you first remove the rubber hoses to the drain pump to see if it had a partial clog? I see that alot and that will cause this issue your having as well. So check that first.

If your drain pump is fine, then yes its most likely the shift actuator.

Go into diagnostics and retrieve the codes, and clear them. This is very important since most complaints start with the lid lock on and blinking, or the unit will not start and spin.

If, when in diagnostics the codes are F7E1, F7E5, or motor speed codes, then chances are it is a motor, capacitor, or shifter related issue. Once the codes are cleared, put the washer into a manual diagnostic test and run the HEAVY OR NORMAL AGITATION; if after 15‐20 Seconds the motor runs then you can rule out the motor, capacitor, control, and most likely the wiring harness connections (although still check the BK wire from the shifter to the control). Remember, the timing wheel only turns in the
transmission during the spin cycle.

Next, while in Manual diagnostics, try to get the unit to spin; if the motor hums for a split second and then shuts down with the lid lock blinking; go back into diagnostic codes and look for shifter or speed sensor errors.

This is proof that the shifter/sensor assembly is the issue because the optical sensor is not reading the motor speed.

Here's the shift actuator for your model you can order here(Video Included):
WPW10006355 Shift Actuator


Let us know what you find.

Jake
 

henry9023

Premium Member
Joined
May 8, 2017
Messages
3
Location
Tuktoyaktuk
Hi Jake,
Good morning and thank you for replying.
By not draining completely, I meant that the clothes were still soaking wet after the tub drained but not spin drained.
I did as you suggested this morning, cleared codes did a manual heavy agitate test the test passed, I did a manual low speed spin test and that test passed, then I did a manual high speed spin test. That's where it failed. I went back into diagnostics and looked for all fault/error codes and the only one was F7E1 all others were F0.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
109,119
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Did the motor run? I assume yes.--->put the washer into a manual diagnostic test and run the HEAVY OR NORMAL AGITATION; if after 15‐20 Seconds the motor runs then you can rule out the motor, capacitor, control, and most likely the wiring harness connections (although still check the BK wire from the shifter to the control)

Also did you do this--->Next, while in Manual diagnostics, try to get the unit to spin; if the motor hums for a split second and then shuts down with the lid lock blinking.

Did the motor run or hum in either of these scenarios?

I assume it did since you mentioned this:
did a manual heavy agitate test the test passed, I did a manual low speed spin test and that test passed, then I did a manual high speed spin test. That's where it failed.
If the motor is running or humming, no matter if one test fails, then the problem is definitely a bad shift actuator.:)

Order it from the link I posted to it above and you'll be back in business.:)

Jake
 
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