NTW4650YQ0 Washer cuts off at final spin in both regular cycle and auto diag

JessicaHo

Premium Member
Joined
Sep 27, 2018
Messages
2
Location
GA
Model
NTW4650
Brand
Amana
Age
More than 10 years
My washer cuts off before the final spin, and the clothing is still wet when the cycle is finished. It had been having issues staying balanced as well before the cutting off. So, I popped off the lid to inspect to see if there was clothing anywhere- there was none. But, I did notice the balance ring had popped off on one side, so I pulled off the splash guard and balance ring and gave them a good cleaning (because, EW) before putting them back onto the drum. I then went into the automatic diag and the washer still cut off at final spin. Went to fault codes and got the following: f2 E1, F7 E1, and F7 E7.
I read on the forum in several places that it might be the shift actuator, and followed the instructions given to determine if it was the motor, etc. The manual diag was fine on both the heavy agitation, as well as the high spin. Went back into automatic diag, the motor hummed at final spin, spun for a sec, cut off, hummed again, spun a second time for a moment, and then cut off again. I may try to clear the codes again and do another diagnosis test to see if it still throws the same codes at me.
My husband is convinced that we just need to buy a new washer. I told him that it is a matter of principle right now, and that we CANNOT LET THE MACHINES WIN. He seemed unmoved by my resolve. Any suggestions as to what I should be looking at next?
On the other hand, when I did get it to spin, it was perfectly balanced, and smells oh so lovely now! :D
Thanks in advance!
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
99,182
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Hi,

Go into diagnostics and retrieve the codes, and clear them. This is very important since most complaints start with the lid lock on and blinking, or the unit will not start and spin.

If, when in diagnostics the codes are F7E1, F7E5, or motor speed codes, then chances are it is a motor, capacitor, or shifter related issue. Once the codes are cleared, put the washer into a manual diagnostic test and run the HEAVY AGITATION; if
after 15‐20 Seconds the motor runs then you can rule out the motor, capacitor, control, and most likely the wiring harness connections (although still check the BK wire from the shifter to the control). Remember, the timing wheel only turns in the
transmission during the spin cycle.

Next, while in Manual diagnostics, try to get the unit to spin; if the motor hums for a split second and then shuts down with the lid lock blinking; go back into diagnostic codes and look for shifter or speed sensor errors.

This is proof that the shifter/sensor assembly is the issue because the optical sensor is not reading the motor speed.

Here's the shift actuator for your model you can order here(Video Included):
WPW10006355 Shift Actuator


Let us know what you find.

Jake
 

JessicaHo

Premium Member
Joined
Sep 27, 2018
Messages
2
Location
GA
I actually followed all of these steps as posted in other threads. That's what is confusing me. On Manual, both High agitation and spin work fine. On Auto and regular cycle it hums and cuts off when it hits the final spin cycle. Any thoughts?
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
99,182
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
On Manual, both High agitation and spin work fine. On Auto and regular cycle it hums and cuts off when it hits the final spin cycle. Any thoughts?
Ok after your did that this time, did you go back into diagnostics and get a F7E1 error again?

If so, look here: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BzvgAyLTSh14cHlMbFJ5UkcyZDA on everything to check for.

But I'd suspect the shift actuator is the problem if you get the F7E1 error again, a bad shift actuator is very common for this F7E1 error.

Jake
 
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