OE CODE, SLOW DRAIN, LG WT7200CW, 5 YR OLD

[Ou812mech]

Model Number

WT7200CW

Brand

LG

Age

1-5 years

Hello,

Read many posts on same subject.

What I have:
Washer stopped and won't drain in spin cycle. No humming or noise at all from drain motor pump. Has OE msg. No auto-drain function works after 4 min. Even get "dr" msg for auto-drain, but drain pump still doesn't turn on. Dr lock function is good.

What I've done:
Called LG which was no help at all, except the agent connected me to "All Brand" appliance. All Brand referred me to "Encompass.com" where I downloaded a service manual--big help!
Per service manual, I cannot enter the "SVC" troubleshooting/diagnostics mode of washer after pressing and holding "Temp" and "Soil" buttons. Can't enter "Test mode 6". Drain hose is clear. I shop-vacumed washer contents thru end of drain line.

Have 115vac across blue and grey drain pump wire connectors. Drain pump motor ohms out at 11.5 ohms. Removed pump, no blockage. Put it on a bench and hooked up an old lamp plug wires to it, and it runs ok. Replaced it anyway with new oem drain pump--exactly the same. No help. New pump on bench is a little "smoother" than old one as far as vibration goes, but they both work. Put the old one back in.

Service manual mentions the pressure switch and the tygon tube air chamber connected to it. Part number 6501ea1001. Air chamber tube is clear. Pressure switch ohms out ok at 23 ohms. I did remove switch and shaking it around, I could hear some loose rattling inside. Opened it up and a small "something" fell out which I could not find. Small piece of plastic maybe? Put it back together and hooked it up.

Some questions/observations:
Should I replace this pressure switch anyway, even though the washer didn't give me a PE code for the pressure switch? And I don't think I should hear the loose rattling? How does this pressure sensor/switch work? Does it simply sense water level rising in the closed loop tube which builds up air pressure in tube?

I will do some closer wiring checks like broken wire at plastic terminal ends.

Confirm there's no drain filter or water exit valve on this model? So as far as the water level goes with this washer, it acts sort of like a plumbing S-trap or P-trap whereas the water level in the drain line is at the same level as the water level in the washer tub?

Thanks in advance!
Gordon

 

[Dan O.]

So as far as the water level goes with this washer, it acts sort of like a plumbing S-trap or P-trap whereas the water level in the drain line is at the same level as the water level in the washer tub?

Correction. The maximum water fill will only be as high as the drain hose connection to the hose plumbing. That is the same on ALL washers and dishwashers... depending on how their internal hoses are routed.

LINK > Appliance411 FAQ: My washer doesn't seem to be able to hold water. What's the problem?

The initial fill height is controlled by various different methods depending on the machine design.


I'm afraid I have no experience with LG washers so can't suggest a possible cause or solution. Sorry. Hopefully someone that is familiar will offer their suggestion.


BTW. NO manufacturer is responsible for telling you how to service your products nor are their service agents and depots. You shouldn't expect it from any company other than just answers to simple questions... which are often also found in the owner's manual.

g/l

Dan O.

 

[Ou812mech]

Thanks Dan,

Based on reading some past posts, thought I should take a closer look at the drain pump harness.
Just finished doing some "further" wiring cks, because you just don't think its going to be a broken wire during first steps of t/s. Though I did get 115vac first attempt, I took the two-wire harness off for a continuity ck. Sure enough, the 90 degree crimp under the plastic connector housing for the blue pwr wire at the motor was broken and only hanging on by a few strands. Reading over 500 ohms. Re crimped another terminal end on and its working fine.

Regarding the washer tub fill height, I was really asking a question because I just don't know and not making a statement of fact. "The maximum water fill will only be as high as the drain hose connection to the hose plumbing." I'm guessing you made a typo and really meant ...to the house plumbing? I just never realized there was always old standing water (undrained) in the drain tube which can mix with clean new water of a wash cycle.

Regarding a manufacturer's responsibility, I don't know consumer laws, but in my opinion, I do think they have an obligation to to provide reasonable service documents with basic wiring diagrams and parts info. Not asking much. My wife begged me to call them, and I knew I couldn't expect much. It should have been easier to find these docs. Seems like I just got lucky. This is my first LG appliance. Have always had Sears Brand in the past, ie, Kenmore, etc. and always got a fundamental wiring diagram, bare minimum t/s information, and a parts illustration with part numbers.

Thanks again!
Gordon

 

[Dan O.]

I'm guessing you made a typo and really meant ...to the house plumbing?

Correct, thx.

I do think they have an obligation to to provide reasonable service documents with basic wiring diagrams and parts info.

There is a wiring diagram in every major appliance when it leaves the factory. Its location varies. It could be inside the control console or elsewhere in the machine. On electronically controlled models the wiring diagram also often includes a 'tech sheet' with failure codes and sometimes some component specifications. It does not tell you how to service it, at most might just point to possible causes.

No manufacturer supplies them otherwise except to their authorized service depots and often only when you purchase a subscription for access. None will tell a consumer how to service a product.

This is my first LG appliance. Have always had Sears Brand in the past, ie, Kenmore, etc. and always got a fundamental wiring diagram, bare minimum t/s information, and a parts illustration with part numbers.

That's likely because the Kenmore product could have been made by any of a hundred different manufactures (see the following link) and tracing parts can be difficult. No other major brand supplies parts lists along with their products.

LINK > Appliance411: Who makes Kenmore?

Sure enough, the 90 degree crimp under the plastic connector housing for the blue pwr wire at the motor was broken and only hanging on by a few strands.

Good find. I have come across a broken wire inside of its plastic coating which couldn't even be seen and only found by a continuity test of the wire from end to end.


Glad you figured it out. Thanks for the followup.

Dan O.