FIXED PDT825SSJ0SS GE Profile dishwasher, control panel lights not working and non-responsive

madimalo

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Thanks bigbuck!


For you madimalo: If the SERVICE LED is STEADY OFF, then the tech. data sheet says to check for 120 volts at the machine control board, if 120 volts is present and the SERVICE LED is STEADY OFF, it says to replace the machine control board.

Here's the control(machine) board for this model PDT825SSJ0SS you can order:

Jake
Thanks Jake. I replaced with a new main control board, and now it's working again.
 

Jake

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Excellent madimalo, glad to hear the new control board fixed it. (y)

Thanks for the update!

Jake
 

LLC

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HI Jake,

I read your guidance re: PDT825SSJ0SS GE Profile dishwasher, control panel lights not working and non-responsive. I have the same model. "Select Cycle" + "Start" 5sec did not work. I checked the "control board status LED" is STEADY ON. I checked the manual you posted and it indicates "UI personality not set, communication lost between UI and MC" but found no more further instruction. Please help. Thanks, LLC
 

Jake

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Hi LLC,

Look here:

Download that service bulletin bigbuck posted in post #3 of that thread, it tells you to check for 13.5 VDC, if not found, replace the control board:
If the service LED on the machine control has a steady on or one time per second flash, check the door harness and follow the below DC Volts checks.
• Check the door harness connections.
• For all models, the UI operational voltage is output from the main control on connector J722 pin 2 black/green to pin 5 yellow/black. If 13.5 Volts DC is not found here, replace the main control.

If you do get 13.5 Volts DC, then order and replace the UI Kit.

Here's the UI Kit for this model:

It's a bit of a job to get access to it, watch this video below, it shows you the general idea of how to access/replace the UI board:

Let us know what you find.

Jake
 

LLC

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Hi Jake,

Thanks so much for your quick reply!

I have some more info that may help me to diagnose for me and a question.

Question: the "door harness connection", you meant the plastic piece in the front of the top frame of the dishwasher that grip the door, not the door cable on the side of the machine, correct? I can only visually check it without taking the machine out from the kitchen bench.

Also, prior to the out of power, my machine had a bit of issues. The lights have not been off for a few weeks and it beeped sometime. By pressing the "start" for over 3 sec could not turn it off. Any new thoughts after this inside info?

Thanks,

LLC
 

Jake

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Here's the video on how to access the control(machine) board:

At the 1:06 mark of that video is the door wire harness connector. You many have to remove it to drop the control board down but reconnect that door wire harness when you drop it down to view the SERVICE LED.

Jake
 

Trubull

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Just a quick follow up to my issue. Service Tech came out and updated the software, but problem returned. The tech determined that there were 3 possible problems: (1) Bad heater; (2) Bad pump; (3) Bad motherboard. All three were ordered. The tech returned yesterday and found that there was some missing metal on the heater element & that was causing leakage around the o-ring/gasket. He replaced the element and the motherboard, but did not replace the pump. At the present time, all looks well.
 

LLC

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Hi Jake,

Report: I powered the dishwasher, but disconnected the J722 from the bottom of the control board. By measuring the #2 and #5 pins, I got either 14.16V or -14.16V depending on the polarity of the pens from my testing meter. So, is the verdict to order a "main control"? Thanks, -LLC
 

Jake

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No LLC,

If you do get 13.5 Volts DC, then order and replace the UI Kit.

Here's the UI Kit for this model you can order:

It's a bit of a job to get access to it, watch this video below, it shows you the general idea of how to access/replace the UI board:

It will come with instructions to set the UI personality jumpers per your model number.

Jake
 

Jake

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Just a quick follow up to my issue. Service Tech came out and updated the software, but problem returned. The tech determined that there were 3 possible problems: (1) Bad heater; (2) Bad pump; (3) Bad motherboard. All three were ordered. The tech returned yesterday and found that there was some missing metal on the heater element & that was causing leakage around the o-ring/gasket. He replaced the element and the motherboard, but did not replace the pump. At the present time, all looks well.
Thanks Trubull for the update! I'm surprised all those parts were bad on yours, that's very rare to see happen.

Jake
 

LLC

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But, Jake. I got 14.16, not 13.5. Dose 13.5 means at least to have that voltage? So, a reading a bit higher than 13.5VDC is ok? Thanks, -LLC
 

LLC

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Hi Jake, I borrowed another meter to measure the VDC yesterday and it was indeed 14.16~14.2. So, a slightly higher than 13.5VDC still consider "got"13.5 and the problem is the UI board? However, on the Tech Service Guide (page 9) from bigbuck UI Control DC Voltage was defined as 5-13.5VDC. A bit confused. Please help to explain. Thanks a lot! -LLC
 

Jake

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Ok, 14 volts DC is good. Its ok if its a little over 13.5 volts DC.

Look here:

Order and replace the UI Kit.

Jake
 

Viki87

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Hi LLC, Jake,
Did you eventually replace the UI kit and did that solve your problem? I am having similar issue with my PDT825SSJ0SS. Did the checks service led solid on and J722 between pins 2 and 5, I get 14.26 volts.

Looking further into the UI kit portion.. but is it possible that the led is solid on, there exists a voltage at J722 and still the main control board is the culprit? The reason I ask this question is:- the dishwasher came with a printed short service manual which asks to replace the main control board if the light is solid ON. I've attached a photo of this.

Much appreciate this website that even makes this kind of debug and repair possible!!

Thanks!
 

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Jake

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That's a misprint, others had the LED STEADY ON and replaced the control board and no dice, then they replaced the UI Kit and that fixed it.

Order the UI Kit I posted the link to in post #29.

Jake
 

Viki87

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Thanks for the message Jake. I ordered both the main control board and the UI logic kit to be sure I have all the parts to get my dishwasher working again. Appreciate the link! Is this a common problem on this model?

Another question I had was, my dishwasher was tripping up the breaker quite a bit before the failure. Also, the dishwasher did fix itself a couple of times within the last few months when this issue happened. A couple of weeks back, went dead again and didn't come back on this time.

Could a faulty UI board cause this kind of behaviour? I want to be sure there is no wiring issue in the house that caused the dishwasher to go bad (new home built 2015).
 

Jake

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Yes, a faulty UI board can cause tripping of the breaker.

It will come with instructions to set the personality jumpers. You must do that or the new UI board will not work.:)

Jake
 

LLC

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Hi Jake, Hi Viki87,
My UI arrived today, and I installed it and it seemed to have fixed the problem. I did a test wash, it seemed ok. Thanks Jake for all you help!
The installation was not very eventful, but there are a few steps that my model is slightly different from that shown in the video. For one thing, I did not know if I have done correctly. The new UI board has the personality pins (8421), and I connected them according to the instruction came with the kit. I was hoping to double check with the old board once I removed it, but the old one did not have the removeable pin connectors.
To set up the test run, I also noticed that the rack (upper and lower) selecting switch did not show indicating lights when pressed. Any idea, Jake?
Thanks again,

LLC
 

Jake

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Excellent LLC, glad the new UI board fixed it. (y)

To set up the test run, I also noticed that the rack (upper and lower) selecting switch did not show indicating lights when pressed. Any idea, Jake?
I really don't know sorry, hopefully another tech. or member that has installed this particular UI board can shed some light on it.

Thanks for the update!

Jake
 

Viki87

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Hi Guys,
I fixed mine today. Replacing the UI board did the trick and the dishwasher came back on again. I had forgotten to set the personality pins and had to remove the door and redo this. But other than that the install went well.

As LLC pointed out, the instructional video and this model had some differences. Most notable was the door hinges on this model are a different style and removing the outer door panel also involved removing some extra screws and careful slide up of the panel.

@LLC (hope I don't jinx myself) but the button to control upper and/or lower racks works normally as of now with the new UI board for me. Yet to do the first wash after the repair though. Fingers crossed. Are you sure you did the personality pin connection exactly as indicated in the table for our PDT825 model?

Thanks a lot to all the info here! Without this, this DIY repair would not have been possible. Special thanks to Jake for the quick responses!!
 
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