PFSS5NJWASS frozen evaporator not cooling.

[Rich0082]

Model Number

PFSS5NJWASS

Brand

GE

Age

More than 10 years

Hello

Happy new year. I have a GE profile model number PFSS5NJWASS. Today I noticed the freezer and fridge were not working. Compressor was super hot. Upon inspection the fan had ice on it and once I removed the evap cover the evap was frozen over with ice (white snow like ice). I read numerous posts and did the following tests.

Tested inverter voltage and get 120 volts ac on larger wires and 5.2 volts dc on smaller wires also get 5 volts on j15

I tested the termistors in the freezer and they are all good (took ohm test at room temp and in ice water).

I removed heater coil and have continuity

So my question is how do I test the defrost thermostat without cutting it and if you have any other ideas what to test.

When fridge is plugged back in compressor and both fans turn on.

 

[Rich0082]

Update
Placed fridge in diagnostics mode and test heater which came on (put my hand next to the heat coil and felt the heat).

 

[Jake]

Was the entire evaporator coil massively frosted up to where you could barely see the coils?

If that's the case, then you auto-defrost circuit is not working properly in the motherboard, because the defrost heater came on in diagnostics, which means the evaporator thermistor and defrost heater are both good.

Here's the motherboard for your model:
WR55X10956 Main Control Board

 

[Rich0082]

Jake thanks for the quick response. One more question. At room temp I am getting continuity at j9 and pin 1 on j7 would that test the defrost thermostat?

I’m just annoyed just put the motherboard in a little over a year ago to fix water dispenser issues.

 

[Rich0082]

Yes it was almost completely covered and frost was actually on the fan blades as well

 

[Rich0082]

Correction had continuity on j7 pin 9 ( the pin closest to j9) and j9

 

[Jake]

The defrost thermostat on your model is just a safety thermostat in case the defrost heater does not go OFF, so that will show continuity at room temperature.

The evaporator thermistor controls the defrost circuit on your model.

 

[Rich0082]

Ok thanks makes sense in for another motherboard.

I do have another question should the heater fill tube (WR51X10093) have continuity? Because it does not and would that cause the defrost cycle to not work?

 

[Rich0082]

Do you guys get a commission if I buy from the link to the parts you sent?

 

[Jake]

I do have another question should the heater fill tube (WR51X10093) have continuity? Because it does not and would that cause the defrost cycle to not work?

I would think it would, but the tech. data sheet does not say. That would NOT cause the defrost cycle to not work, that's just the fill tube heater for the ice maker.

Do you guys get a commission if I buy from the link to the parts you sent?

Yes, a small commission which helps keep this site running.

 

[Rich0082]

Ok I ordered the motherboard via link. I’ll keep you guys posted.

 

[Jake]

Ok, sounds good, thanks!

Yes, let us know how it goes.

 

[Rich0082]

New motherboard installed fridge working but temps are inconsistent. Fridge displays 36 but actual with thermometer is 40 freezer is good at 0. Seems like when I try to turn the fridge down from control panel the freezer goes really low -7 and fridge only gets to 38 but still displays 36. Damper was tested correct voltage when manually moved 6.5 volts and ohms at 390. I’m wondering if the fan is no good even though it spins. What are your thoughts?

 

[Jake]

Give it 24 hours for the temperature in BOTH sides to stabilize first.

If its been 24 hours and the refrigerator temperature is still not right, then--->Did you cut the wire the motherboard instructions told you to do?

If not, read this thread: FIXED i did not cut wire at circuit board

 

[Rich0082]

So there are no instructions with the new motherboard. Appliance partpros also said same thing and the sent me over the instruction sheet which did not say anything about cutting a wire. I looked at the thread and am not sure my model Pfss5njwass would be included in the list of cutting the wire. Do you recommend trying to cut it anyways and do I unplug it once everything is running and reattach or do I reattach it while it’s running?

I replaced the fridge thermister thinking maybe that’s the issue. Waiting 24 hours to see if it stabilizes

 

[Rich0082]

Board is also horizontal not vertical as I read only vertical would need cutting I believe

 

[Jake]

Ok yes correct, on yours you don't cut any wire, sorry my bad.

How is it doing now?

 

[Rich0082]

It’s definitely running good now but the actual temp on the control board on the door does not display the correct temp it’s always stuck on 0 and 37? Freezer stays between -3 and 3 and fresh food stays between 33 and 39 using an acurite temp digital gauges.

 

[Rich0082]

Update
The fridge thermister had a short when put in diagnostics mode guess I did something when swapping them or trying to put it back into the case. But fridge stayed cold. Freezer holding good at 0 with freezer thermister but fridge is staying between 40 and 44 on acurite gauge but fridge temp shows it’s at 36 Does the temp control board send the temp signal to the main board? Maybe that’s bad.

 

[Jake]

No, the thermistor sends the temperature to the main control board.

The fridge thermister had a short when put in diagnostics mode guess I did something when swapping them or trying to put it back into the case.

Does it still show a short in it? If so, that needs to be replaced:
Thermistor WR55X10025