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PGS930SEL1SS - GE Profile Series 30 Slide-In Front Control Gas Range - Pre-heat shuts off at 240 deg.

csstile

Premium Member
Joined
Sep 9, 2019
Messages
28
Location
Round Rock, TX
Model Number
PGS930SEL1SS
Brand
GE
Age
1-5 years
Gas range is 2 1/2 years old. Gas range will preheat to 240 deg. and then pre-heat shuts-off. Problem is repeatable.

What would cause this problem? Igniter? Gas valve solenoid?
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
106,014
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Hi,

I'd first ohm test your oven sensor. I use this multimeter myself: Multimeter DM10T

To ohm test the oven sensor: All you do is pull your range out from the wall, then unplug it, then remove the back access panel and you will see a little plastic connector that connects to your oven sensor, just unsnap that little plastic connector and take a ohm reading on it at room temperature per the video below.

Here's the oven sensor for your model:
Oven Sensor asm WB24X25557


Watch this video to ohm test it:


Let us know what you find.

Jake
 

csstile

Premium Member
Joined
Sep 9, 2019
Messages
28
Location
Round Rock, TX
Thank you for your reply. I don't see the P/N you referenced on GE's part list or on the parts diagram for this model.

The video you show is for uneven baking. My issue is the pre-heat function. Are the symptoms related to my pre-heat issue?
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Messages
106,014
Location
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The video you show is for uneven baking.
Don't pay attention to the description title of the video, a bad oven sensor can throw the pre-heat out of whack as well, I posted the video to show you how to ohm test it.:)

The oven sensor is #43 here:

Thanks bigbuck, I bet the 2nd service bulletin RA02-18 you posted is the fix, look here:

Jake
 

csstile

Premium Member
Joined
Sep 9, 2019
Messages
28
Location
Round Rock, TX
Thank you for the SB and TB. Below are my results for the TB:

Step 1: Cycle power to range. Press and hold ‘2’ and ‘Broil’ simultaneously for three seconds to enter Fault Retrieval Mode. Press ‘1’ to display stored faults. Fault code F350 or F352 will likely be displayed. This indicates the ERC has detected that the cooling fan blower wheel is not turning, or turning too slowly.

Results:

Fault 683 (Inactive / 1 Occurrence)
Fault 350 (Inactive / 11 Occurences)
Fault 352 (Inactive / 1 Occurrence)

So I have the two code is said I would get. What is a '683'?

Step 2: Enter the ERC’s Test Mode by pressing and holding ‘1’ and ‘Broil’ for three seconds. Pulse the cooling blower at low speed by pressing ‘3’. If blower wheel, which is visible through the vent trim at rear of maintop, fails to turn, service is required.

Could not get into this mode by pressing '1' and 'Broil'. So I could not test fan as instructed.

Is there another key combination I can try? Does this indicate another issue with the oven?

In the next couple of days I'll open the oven up and follow the instructions to see of the fan is obstructed in any way and report back.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
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Messages
106,014
Location
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Those Fault codes are listed in the 31-17268 pdf that bigbuck posted above.

Look at the fault codes chart, 683 says Oven UI(User Interface)

Jake
 

csstile

Premium Member
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Sep 9, 2019
Messages
28
Location
Round Rock, TX
Can someone answer the question as to why I cannot access the ERC Test Mode by pressing and holding ‘1’ and ‘Broil’ for three seconds?

I have not opened up the oven and follow the diagnostic instruction for the fan motor, however, when I try to spin it from inside the oven through the fan vent openings it spins freely with no apparent obstruction. There is basically no resistance to spin it.

I also have some additional info my wife in regard to the symptoms (I don't cook and don't use the oven.) The problem of the pre-heat turning off at 240 happens happens in both the convection AND normal bake mode. She says that the fan is intended to only operate in the convection mode. Is that correct?

So if the fan does not come on with the standard bake option then why does it stop pre-heating at 240 degrees during when the problem points to a fan issue in convection mode? Shouldn't the problem only occur during convection operation?

The error code for 352 doesn't make sense to me. It states, "If the cooling fan is between 3540-3660 RPM for 25 consecutive seconds. Locked motor condition. Check for obstruction in fan motor that won't allow it to run when requested" How can you have a fan spinning at 3500+ RPM and have a locked motor condition?! If you have a locked motor condition then it shouldn't be spinning at all?

P.S. As an FYI, When I called GE customer support prior to posting the person who answered the phone was clueless. All she did was search the knowledge base like I could do on my own. You could tell she had no technical background and could not assist me in diagnosing the problem unless she found it in her database. GE needs to step up and employee technicians for customer support. However, given GE's failing business I shouldn't be surprised their not investing in better customer support.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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I wish I could answer your questions, but I haven't worked on this model and have not had any training on it, hopefully another tech. that has worked on this model and seen this problem can shed some light on it.

GE appliances have been bought out by a Chinese company called Haier back in 2016, and it's been downhill from that point forward. All GE appliances are having major issues right now.

Jake
 

csstile

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Messages
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Location
Round Rock, TX
I finally got around to test the temperature probe but, I need assistance in confirming the connector / wires to probe. I removed the "Terminal Block" panel which exposed a 2-pin and 3-pin connector. The 2-pin has a pair of yellow wires on one side and a pair of white wires on the other side. Are these the probe wires to test? If not, where are they located? I did an resistance test on the 2-pin connector white wires and it only read 120 ohms vs the required 1100 ohms. So I don't know if this indicates a bad probe or I'm probing the wrong wires.
 

csstile

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Messages
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Location
Round Rock, TX
Neve mind! I found the probe wires and they're reading 1094 ohms which I believe is close enough to 1100, right?
 

csstile

Premium Member
Joined
Sep 9, 2019
Messages
28
Location
Round Rock, TX
OK so I was able to get into the ERC test mode and test the blower motor. It doesn't come on yet it will spin freely by hand. So I'm guessing I either have a bad blower motor or control board. My bet is the control board. It says to test the voltage of Pin 1 of the J903 to neutral. What is considered the neutral. Is it ground or a wire connected to neutral and if so which wire is it?
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Messages
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Location
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Neve mind! I found the probe wires and they're reading 1094 ohms which I believe is close enough to 1100, right?
Yes, anywhere between 1050 ohms and 1100 ohms is good at room temperature.

It says to test the voltage of Pin 1 of the J903 to neutral. What is considered the neutral. Is it ground or a wire connected to neutral and if so which wire is it?
W(white wire) is Neutral.

Jake
 

csstile

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Messages
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Location
Round Rock, TX
I guess I should have been more specific about the neutral wire. I know it should be White but, on the J903 connector there is no White wires. So what neutral do I probe or do I even need to probe a neutral and just probe Pin 1 for voltage?
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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I don't know, it does not say.

You'll likely need to have GE come out to see what's going on, were going on two months here and we need to wrap this up.

Jake
 
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