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Please help! Maytag Fridge Repair

arwmom

Premium Member
Joined
Nov 20, 2012
Messages
4
Location
Highland, IL
Model Number
MSD2651HEW
Brand
Maytag
Age
6-10 years
I was troubleshooting some issues with my Maytag side by side. It was cool but would make click then buzz noise, which increased. It then became less cool. I took the relay out and shook it and it did make a rattling noise which told me it was a relay problem. At this point I left the fridge off for 2 days til relay came in. I just put new relay in and still making click buzz. I read that I need to clean the coils as they may be dirty causing the buzzing noise but seems to be excellent advice on here so I thought I would check. Thanksgiving is in 2 days and I am hosting. No way I can get new compressor by then, please any other avenues I can check??? I also read compressor may need to beadjusted, is this somethig I could try? PLEASE HELP!!!!

Forever Grateful,
Amanda
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Messages
43,698
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
Remove the relay/overload and look at the three pins on the compressor. They are arranged in a triangle configuration. The pin at the top of the triangle is the common terminal. The two pins below the common terminal are Start on the left and Run on the right. This configuration can also be opposite with the common terminal or top of the triangle on the bottom. Set the ohmmeter on the RX10 scale. Measure the resistance of the start windings between the Common terminal and the Start terminal. Ohmmeter should indicate between 3 and 11 ohms. Measure the resistance of the run windings between the Common terminal and the run terminal. Ohmmeter should indicate between 1 and 5 ohms. Measure between each terminal and the compressor body. Ohmmeter should indicate infinite resistance (1). Any other reading would indicate a shorted compressor.
 

arwmom

Premium Member
Joined
Nov 20, 2012
Messages
4
Location
Highland, IL
Rick,
Thank you so much! Going to test it now! Saying a prayer!!!! I will post what I find out! Thank you sooooo much!!!!

Amanda
 

arwmom

Premium Member
Joined
Nov 20, 2012
Messages
4
Location
Highland, IL
Ok - start terminal was 5.0, run terminal was 4.1. All terminals and the compressor body read 1. So this is very good! So now that we determined that where do I go from here? You are a lifesaver!!!!
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Messages
43,698
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
This isn't looking good I'm afraid. If the buzzing/clicking noise is coming from the new part you installed, the start device, first make sure you have 120 VAC between the two wires on the start device. Unplug the machine and use an ohmmeter set on the lowest scale to check the relay from the two terminals on the front of the case. The meter should indicate a resistance of between 3 and 26 ohms. A defective relay will measure zero (0) ohms (shorted) or infinite resistance (open). If the voltage is correct and the start device checks good, you have whats called a locked rotor in the compressor. For some reason the compressor doesn't want to start so it's shot. That means a new compressor or new refrigerator. There's a slim chance you can break it free using a cheater cord as long as you're comfortable working with live electricity. Unplug the machine and remove the start device so you can see the three compressor pins. Connect the cheater cord to the COM pin and the RUN pin. Use a small insulated screwdriver and short the START pin and RUN pin together. Have someone plug the cheater cord in the outlet and as soon as the compressor starts remove the screwdriver. If it doesn't start after a couple seconds remove the screwdriver and unplug the cheater cord.
 
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