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PSC25MSWASS Temp To Warm, Wont Cool

BFENNE

Premium Member
Joined
Mar 10, 2013
Messages
77
Location
PA
Model Number
PSC25MSWASS
Brand
GE
Age
6-10 years
Hello PRO's

I am having problems cooling my GE Profile PSC25MSWASS. The freezer side is 6 degrees but the refrigerator is at 45 degrees. Unable to lower temps. I have down powered unit, cleaned the condenser coil and seems fan working and compressor working. Not sure freezer would maintain below 10 degrees if they were not. Also can see fan and feel compressor running.

Any suggestions?

Thanks in advance for your guidance?

Brian
 
Last edited:

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
137,363
Location
Vicksburg Junction, Arizona
Hi Brian,

This model is called a dual(custom) cool, meaning you have a small evaporator coil inside the bottom of your refrigerator section. Open the refrigerator door, then listen if you hear the fan motor running down towards the bottom, if that fan motor isn't running that would cause it to ALWAYS stay no colder than 45 degrees in the refrigerator section.

There are quite a few member here that have had problems with the dual evaporator custom cool when they have a warmer than normal refrigerator section.

I'm attaching the service manual for your model, and also the custom cool service manual below.

Other members have reported icing/temperature problems and noise issues with the custom cool too.

Here's one: GE Profile Arctica Fridge Temp Control + Icing Problems

So I'd check that dual cool fan first, others have reported ice blockage in the fan area not allowing that fan to run as well.

Here's the fan motor assembly for the dual custom cool unit:
WR17X13035 Qc Fan & Harness Asm


Here's the dual cool service manual: Dropbox - 31-9075 GE Arctica Side-By-Side CustomCool Refrigerator.pdf

Also if that dual cool fan is running in the bottom of the refrigerator section, then still remove that plastic cover so you can get a good view of that small evaporator coil, then tell me how much frost is on ALL the coils. Even better is if you can take a photo of it and upload it here.:)

Jake
 

BFENNE

Premium Member
Joined
Mar 10, 2013
Messages
77
Location
PA
Jake,

Thank you for the detailed response. So before I received your response I reset all compressor inverter connectors a while appliance was plugged in. It took almost 24 hours to cool to 0 and 37 and is holding steady. Maybe there was a relay hung up in the system. I assume all other components must be working or it would not be cooling correctly. I hope this holds but I have a feeling I will be revisiting your post....lol Thanks again for your help and generosity.

Kind regards,
Brian
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
137,363
Location
Vicksburg Junction, Arizona
Ok Brian, lets hope it holds, if not let us know.

Jake
 

BFENNE

Premium Member
Joined
Mar 10, 2013
Messages
77
Location
PA
Jake,

It has been quite some time, but this problem is back again. This time though the fan is not running and rough visual of coil fins there is not frost or ice build up. I will take a part tomorrow to verify coil condition more closely.

I am curious though, is there another component that provides feed back to the fan for it to run or is this a constant on fan and runs til failure of fan?

Also is there P/N for the fan only with no additional harness or do you have to buy the assembly?
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
137,363
Location
Vicksburg Junction, Arizona
Also is there P/N for the fan only with no additional harness or do you have to buy the assembly?
Hi Brian, well its been 2 years, not to shabby! LOL

No, you would need to order the fan assembly with the harness I posted the link to above if your fan motor is bad. Measure the voltage to the fan motor electrical connector and see how many volts you get.

I am curious though, is there another component that provides feed back to the fan for it to run or is this a constant on fan and runs til failure of fan?
Yes, the motherboard.

Here's the motherboard for your model:
WR55X10956 Main Control Board


The motherboard is located in the back of the refrigerator, on your exterior back cabinet, you will see the cover for it, just remove the cover to access it.

Jake
 

BFENNE

Premium Member
Joined
Mar 10, 2013
Messages
77
Location
PA
Thanks Jake,

Gonna take apart tomorrow to check. Any Idea what the voltage range I should see is at the fan?
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
137,363
Location
Vicksburg Junction, Arizona
Ok, sounds good.

Yes, 12 Volts DC.

Jake
 

BFENNE

Premium Member
Joined
Mar 10, 2013
Messages
77
Location
PA
Hi Jake,

I ordered the parts before digging in. At first glance when I verified it was not running I thouht it would be easy access to fan. Upon closer look it appears to be more involved. Just how much needs to be dismantled to access it? Is there a video for replacing this fan? Thanks.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
137,363
Location
Vicksburg Junction, Arizona
Unfortunately, there is no video for replacing this fan but will be a matter of disassembly of the custom cool section.

I did locate the video to get access to that fan motor, watch below:


Jake
 

BFENNE

Premium Member
Joined
Mar 10, 2013
Messages
77
Location
PA
Jake,

Thank you. I never thought to look for another component in same area. I have a wiring diagram and will put a meter on the mother board first to check out components. Thanks again.
 

BFENNE

Premium Member
Joined
Mar 10, 2013
Messages
77
Location
PA
Hi Jake,

So I have a new issue with our same refrigerator this time on the freezer side. The freezer temp is hovering around 50 degrees. This is in turn is affecting the refrigerator temps. Any suggestions for common cause before I dig in. Thanks for your support as always.

Brian
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
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Messages
137,363
Location
Vicksburg Junction, Arizona
Take everything out of the freezer and remove the back panel from inside the freezer and take a photo of your evaporator coil, I need to see the frost pattern of it.

Jake
 

BFENNE

Premium Member
Joined
Mar 10, 2013
Messages
77
Location
PA
Take everything out of the freezer and remove the back panel from inside the freezer and take a photo of your evaporator coil, I need to see the frost pattern of it.

Jake
So did a quick peek behind panel. Zero frost, dry, non cold coil. No frost pattern to take picture of.
 

BFENNE

Premium Member
Joined
Mar 10, 2013
Messages
77
Location
PA
Hi Jake,

So did quick peek behind panel. Coil is dry, not cold and no frost pattern to show you. What are you thinking?
 

BFENNE

Premium Member
Joined
Mar 10, 2013
Messages
77
Location
PA
So did a little T/S.... Condenser fan runs and clean, Compressor never kicked on, At main control board- FF Fan 9.5V, Evap Fan 13.4, QC Fan 0 V, Condenser fan 13.4V, Quick Chill Heater 0V .......
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
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Messages
137,363
Location
Vicksburg Junction, Arizona
Its possible the inverter board that's bad. It's in-stock at RepairClinic:
Inverter Board WR49X10283


Rick posted this:
Inverter compressors are extremely quiet and run at or just above room temperature. Unplug the machine for longer than 30 seconds then place your hand on top of the compressor and restore power. Feel for the vibration when the compressor starts.

When checking inverter voltage output, connect the test-meter leads to any 2 of the 3 compressor lead wires at the inverter plug (plug should be connected). The same reading should be measured between any 2 of the 3 wires. The inverter controls compressor speed by frequency variation and by Pulse Width Modulation (PWM). Changing frequency and PWM will cause an effective voltage between 80 and 230 VAC to be received at the compressor.

The inverter receives commands from the main control board. The main control board will send a PWM run signal from the J15 connector of between 4-6 VDC effective voltage to the inverter (all wires must be connected). The inverter will select compressor speed (voltage output) based on this signal.

The main control board will only send a run signal to the inverter when the compressor should be on.
--->Note: When measuring signal voltage (from the main control board) at the inverter, a reading of 4-6 VDC will be measured with all wires connected.

The inverter will monitor compressor operation and if the compressor fails to start or excessive current draw (4 amps maximum) is detected, the inverter will briefly stop voltage output. The inverter will then make 12 consecutive compressor start attempts (once every 12 seconds). After 12 attempts, if the compressor has not started, an 8-minute count will initiate. After the 8-minute count, the inverter will attempt to start the compressor again. If the compressor starts, normal operation will resume. If the compressor fails to start, this process will be repeated.

Removing power to the unit will reset the inverter count. When power is restored, the inverter will attempt to start the compressor within 8 seconds.

Jake
 

BFENNE

Premium Member
Joined
Mar 10, 2013
Messages
77
Location
PA
Thank you Jake!

Would you happen to know Main Board Identifier apply to the inverter for this model? My schematic does not reflect it.

To expand more on my previous post I did have it unplugged for some time hoping maybe a relay was hanging up. No joy and compressor is definitely not running.

At this point you have helped me limp this refrigerator along and it is now 13 years old. The cost of possible parts now is getting pricey for an older unit that is nickle and diming us. It may be time to consider a new unit. Do you have any recommendations for french door style brands that have solid reliability?

Thanks for your support.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
137,363
Location
Vicksburg Junction, Arizona
Would you happen to know Main Board Identifier apply to the inverter for this model? My schematic does not reflect it.
Unfortunately not.

At this point you have helped me limp this refrigerator along and it is now 13 years old. The cost of possible parts now is getting pricey for an older unit that is nickle and diming us. It may be time to consider a new unit. Do you have any recommendations for french door style brands that have solid reliability?
We recommend Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid and Amana.:)

Jake
 

BFENNE

Premium Member
Joined
Mar 10, 2013
Messages
77
Location
PA
Perfect! Of those brands and French Door Style, is there one that stands out as more reliable from a technicians perspective?
 
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