PSC25PSSASS Fluctuating Freezer/Fridge temps plus water in fridge

Lowcountry

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Joined
Sep 21, 2019
Messages
12
Location
Bend, OR
Model Number
PSC25PSSASS
Brand
GE
Age
More than 10 years
I’ve read through the threads and there seems to be a motherboard issue as well as possibly some other issues, such as an evaporator fan. One thing I haven’t come across in these threads is I have water that pools in the bottom of the fridge on the left hand side in addition to the fluctuating temperatures on both sides. I’m fairly handy and have seen how to replace main control board an/or evaporator fan if this the place to start. Thoughts? Thanks. Seems like a lot of good information on this site.

Walt
 

Jake

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Hi Walt, Yes, it sounds like two problems.

Is both the freezer and fresh food sides temperature fluctuating? You have a evaporator fan in the freezer side towards the top, then you have another evaporator fan in the fresh food section towards the bottom, are both of those fans running?

For the water in the fresh food left side bottom you may have a clogged drain hole in your drain trough or your drain trough has rusted through and causing this water leak.

Here's the fresh food evaporator drain trough for your model below, when you click the link to it you will see a video on how to access it to see if the drain hole is clogged or the drain trough has rusted through.

WR17X11843 Drain Trough Assembly


Jake
 

Lowcountry

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Location
Bend, OR
Hey Jake,

Thanks for the reply. Yes, both sides fluctuate. It sounds like both sides run, particularly on the freezer side because i hear noise change when I open the freezer, sorta like something winding down. Harder to say on the fresh food side. There is condensation on the wall (left hand side of fresh food side) between fresh and frozen side, more as you go lower, if that means anything.

I’ll give video a look to see about clogged drain or rusted through.

Thanks!

Walt
 

Lowcountry

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Attached should be a photo. Water seemed to be coming more from back LH side, it was wet, as opposed to where rust streak is in the center.
 

Jake

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So your not sure if the evaporator fan in the Fresh Food side is running?

You will have to remove the evaporator cover in the Fresh Food side to see if it is running, if not hold the door switch in and see if it starts running.

Jake
 

Lowcountry

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Hey Jake,

I held the door switch on the Fresh Food side and the evaporator fan kicked on immediately.

Walt
 

Jake

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Ok Walt, sounds good. Then you either have two bad thermistors, which would be very out-of-the-norm that both would go bad at the same time, or your motherboard is malfunctioning making the temperatures go out of wack.

Then you still have that water leaking problem, so between the two, you looking at big money to fix this unit, and at the age its at, you'd be better off saving your repair money for a new refrigerator.

Jake
 

Lowcountry

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Hey Jake,

Thanks for the honest answer.

Given that a new fridge is what, ~$2k give or take, is it worth trying the motherboard for $200 and some of my time?

Walt
 

Jake

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Jake

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Glad to help, keep us posted.

Jake
 

Lowcountry

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Location
Bend, OR
Hey Jake,

I got around yesterday to replacing the drain trough, freezer evaporator fan, and motherboard. Let's just say it didn't quite take me 20 minutes.

Easy one first, drain trough completely rusted through along nearly its entire length. There shouldn't be any water now in the bottom of the fridge. There was a lot of moisture in that area too. It was around the fan and the Styrofoam blocks on LH side hear evaporator lines were saturated plus a fair bit of mold. I cleaned everything up and am letting the Styrofoam drain and dry out before returning.

I change the freezer evaporator fan. What a PITA getting to that on this model as everything had to come out along back wall. I idolize you appliance techs after that ordeal.

I also changed out the motherboard. I didn't notice any burn marks on the old one but I only gave it a cursory look. One thing I did notice was on the old MB there was nothing attached at 4-pin J14 (position right below pins that require screwdriver for unlocking 2-pin red-and-white wire harness in video). There seemed to be a 3-pin harness in wire bundles that wasn't going to anything. I don't know if this makes any difference but I found it odd and just hooked everything back as I found it for the new MB.

Temps were 60 fridge side and 44 on freezer side when fired back up. I ran it on TC and temperatures dropped to 43 and 4 after about 5 hours. This morning the fridge was 44 despite being set at 37 and freezer was 9 and set at 0. So while there's no water in the bottom of the fridge it appears the temps are still fluctuating. Is there anything else to troubleshoot before passing over the halfway-to-a-new-fridge-for-replacement-price threshold? The thing is this unit is in great shape otherwise and it would be too bad to have to replace it.

Thanks.

Walt
 

Jake

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Ok Walt,

Do you hear the fan in the refrigerator section running? It down towards the bottom.

Jake
 

Lowcountry

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I checked this on 9/23 and it would turn on when I held the door switch closed but I'll check again tonight.
 

Lowcountry

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Jake,

My mistake. When I pushed the door switch I heard something kick on that sounded like a fan. However , because the blades on the bottom fan are black I couldn’t see them until now when I shined a light on them! That fan isn’t kicking on when I push the switch. Not sure what I hear kick on but I can confirm it’s not that fan. I’m guessing a refrigerator evaporator fan may be in my future...

Walt
 

Jake

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Here's the parts diagram of your custom cool parts in the bottom of your refrigerator:

#922 is the fan motor
#923 is the damper assembly
#924 is the damper assembly supply

Here's a very detailed thread of everything you want to know about this custom cool compartment:

Jake
 

Lowcountry

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Jake,

So I replaced lower fan and damper supply last weekend. BTW, the fan matches OEM part but the connection was different and the supplied harness doesn’t configure with plugs inside fridge so a little creativeness was needed for fan. Temperatures still fluctuate slightly on either side of 0 and 38 for freezer and fridge, respectively. There is still condensation on LH side of fridge, and on occasion freezes slightly. When I hooked up lower fan I powered fridge and pushed in door switch but the fan didn’t come on and still doesn’t. Thoughts? If this fan doesn’t run is that what’s causing condensation?

Thanks.

Walt
 

Jake

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Ok, it sounds like you may need the ICE BALL KIT for the condensation problem, Look here:

WR49X10180 - AC DE ICE BALL KIT DOMST


For the custom cool fan not running:
(click to enlarge)
MB2.jpg

On the motherboard J2 PIN-3 is the VDC common connection for the entire board.

J2 PIN-7 is the quick chill/custom cool fan motor and should be 12 Volts DC.

Put your black meter probe in J2 PIN-3 and your red meter probe in J2 PIN-7 and you should read 12 Volts DC.

Make sure the doors are closed when you do that volt test.

Jake
 
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