PSS29NGNABB Help water dispenser trouble and now not cooling properly

Boldruler

Premium Member
Joined
May 13, 2019
Messages
10
Location
TX
Model Number
PSS29NGNABB
Brand
GE
Age
More than 10 years
Our GE Profile Arctica recently had the water dispenser stop working. Icemaker was fine.

Pulled it out, took off the back bottom panel and determined that the line had broken. also cleaned up the dust, etc
We turned off the water to the unit waiting for the new hose to come in. Since then, it's not cooling. Temp in the freezer is 40 and fridge is 50 and I hit set colder and nothing seems to help, even though I can hear it running.

What should I check? Would having the water off cause the whole unit to stop working properly?

Any pointers would be greatly appreciated!!!
~Wanna be Do It Yourself Girl
 

Jake

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Hi,

No, turning the water off shouldn't make it stop cooling.

Look in the back and you will see the compressor(big black ball shaped part) do you hear that running? Also next to the compressor you will see your condenser fan motor, is that running too?

If those are both running, open the freezer door and listen for your freezer(evaporator) fan motor, do you hear that running?

Also do you notice any frost build-up on the back panel INSIDE the freezer?

Jake
 

Boldruler

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Messages
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Location
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Thank you so much for the reply. I did some googling and put it in diagnostic mode--then did a reset. It sounds more normal now, but I'm hesitant to open the doors for a bit to see if the reset fixed it.

I'm not sure how to tell if the compressor is running. It's not warm to the touch (but I just reset it maybe 30 min ago) and it doesn't feel like it's vibrating.
The white fan next to it is running. I didn't open the freezer but can hear something running on that side of the machine when I put my ear to the outside.

I'm not sure how quickly it would cool, so I'm trying not to keep opening the doors. I appreciate your response and help, though!
 

Boldruler

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Messages
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Location
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The compressor isn't running.

The problem with the water dispenser is that the tube had broken right underneath the solinoid (I think that's what it's called)

If the water was spraying out at that break, do you suppose it got the inverter board wet and that's the problem?

I found a youtube video about that.
I can't seem to find the right inverter board to even price it.

Otherwise, I can't figure out how pulling it out to figure out the water problem would cause the compressor to quit.

Any ideas?

Thanks so much.
 
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Boldruler

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View attachment 43165
You can see in this pic the broken water line. (Pic is sideways sorrry) Do you suppose it's that capacitor right behind there? If that got wet? I am not sure if this is the compressor relay? I think I found that part number. and it's less than $50 so worth a shot maybe?

Thanks for any help.
 

Jake

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This model doesn't use a compressor inverter board.

The only control board bad there is the motherboard, unplug the refrigerator and use a hair dryer to dry the motherboard, if that doesn't fix it, you will need to order and replace the motherboard. You can't replace parts on the motherboard itself, you have to get a new motherboard.

Here's the motherboard for your model you can order(Video Included):
WR55X10942P Main Control Board


Jake
 

Boldruler

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Messages
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Thank you so much.
I figured out the inverter (or lack thereof) eventually.
I did order the little capacitor that I believe was getting wet. I'm hoping that fixes it but obviously I am not an expert.
I'm not sure replacing the motherboard makes sense as it's 16 years or so old.

Thank you very much for your help, though. I sincerely appreciate it.
 

Jake

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Your photo didn't come through in post #5 upload it again please.

I understand your trying to save money by just replacing the capacitor on the board. But as techs we just replace the motherboard. So I really don't have any way to assist you by replacing any components on the motherboard.

No one has not been able to succeed doing that as of yet, who knows you may be the first.:)

Jake
 

Boldruler

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frig.jpg

I'm not sure how else to upload.

The capacitor I'm trying to replace is not on the motherboard. It's under the solenoid where the water leak is. It is part WR55X24065

I can't make the connector fit on, not the one on my fridge nor the connectors that came with the capacitor.
I've ripped apart the original connector and now I'm at a loss. I couldn't get the right part in quickly, so was assuming I could use the other part and change the connector. UGH

Thank you for your help.
 
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Jake

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To upload photos--->Just Click "Go Advanced" at the bottom right side of this Quick Reply editor that we type in, then you will see the MANAGE Attachments Button.

Wait, I'm very confused, that capacitor is just a run capacitor, it has nothing to do with starting the compressor.

Your compressor start relay and overload device makes the compressor start.

I'd first pull your refrigerator out from the wall, then unplug your refrigerator, then remove the lower back access panel

Its in the black box thats on the side of your compressor, there should be a metal snap clip, you just get a flathead screwdriver and unsnap it, then the black cover comes off.

Take the wires off the relay, write down on paper where the wires go first.

Then put your ohm meter probes in the 2 holes of the relay, you should get a 3-12 ohm reading.

Also ohm the overload same way, except put the probes on both sides of the bare metal on the overload.

Unplug your refrigerator first!

Here's the compressor start relay for your model:
WR07X10057 Ptcr


Here's the overload for your model:
WR08X10026 Compressor Overload


Here's the parts diagram: Parts for GE PSS29NGNABB: Sealed System & Mother Board Parts

Brown relay#733, white overload #735.

Let us know what you find.

Jake
 

Boldruler

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Still don't know why the pic is sideways.

Anyway, I am also confused. I was trying to replace that little black capacitor that is directly under where my water line broke.
another place said "This part helps the compressor kick on and off while maintaining a constant temperature to keep things frozen in your freezer."

Having probably gotten wet, I hoped that was the problem.

I think I may have to give up and buy a new one--Unfortunately, I have a kid graduating college and have to leave town this weekend, have a pet sitter coming to stay at the house so I feel like I need a fridge for her.

It's likely that the parts you refer to also got wet. Maybe that's the trouble. I hadn't pried that black cover off to look in there yet.

Thanks again. I really do appreciate it and I enjoy learning about this stuff. Wish I had more time to play with it and wait for parts. :(
 

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Jake

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another place said "This part helps the compressor kick on and off while maintaining a constant temperature to keep things frozen in your freezer."
That's false, The capacitor on your model is just a run capacitor, not a start capacitor, so that's not the problem.:)

PTC RELAY WITH RUN CAPACITOR
When the compressor circuit is first energized the solid state relay has low resistance 3-12 ohms and both run and start windings are energized to start the compressor. The run capacitor is bypassed by the relay. When the self-heating solid state relay has reached temperature it will change from low resistance 3-12 ohms to high resistance 10k-20k ohms and switches off the start windings. The only purpose of the run capacitor is to improve compressor operating efficiency.

Jake
 

Boldruler

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Well shoot. That's what I get for believing a parts supply site. :( I tried to test the relay, I got a zero reading but not entirely sure I did it right.

sigh. Any recommendations on buying a new one?

This one hasn't been bad, 16 years is a while. I have a 27 year old fridge in my garage that lives in 100+ degree heat and is still cranking....
 

Jake

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Ok,

Unplug your refrigerator and remove it again so we can ohm test it, put your multimeter probes in the 2 parallel holes(on the backside of it where it mounts into the 2 parallel holes of the compressor pins) and it should read 12 ohms or less.

(click to enlarge)
ptc relay start device.jpg

Look at the RTC/PTC at the bottom right side where it says 3-26 ohms.

Jake
 

Boldruler

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Yes, I'm sure I didn't do that right. I could not get the relay out, so I was trying to test it while it was still attached to the compressor.

I've put everything back and will be ordering a new fridge tonight. I contacted a local repairman, explained it all to him and he recommended new. Because in addition to whatever the problem is, I screwed up the electrical connection of that capacitor :(

I really wish I had time to work this through but I'm in a time bind and have to have a working unit by Friday afternoon. I've already put the back on the fridge in the event I have to move it out for the new one. Looking at a Whirlpool and hope it's not a bad choice. My options are limited because I have black appliances and Lowe's is mainly stocking stainless now.

Thank you again so much for your time and patience.
 

Jake

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I understand, 16 years is very good.:)

Yes, I have owned and still own ONLY Whirlpool and Maytag products, including a Kenmore(model number starting with 106) refrigerator made by Whirlpool.

When I moved from Oregon to Arizona in 2014 I needed a new refrigerator myself and went to Sears and got this Kenmore 106 made by Whirlpool: Kenmore 21 cu. ft. Side-by-Side Refrigerator

The summers here stay well above 100 everyday and its not uncommon to get temps 110-120 for a few weeks in the summer as well, and mine never misses a beat, Ice maker keeps up too, works like a champ!

Jake
 

Boldruler

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Thanks for the vote of confidence!

Can't remember if I told you I have an Amana that is 27 years old, has moved all over the country, lives in a detached garage in the Central Texas heat.

I'll be darned if that thing keeps chugging along. It ain't pretty but it keeps our drinks cold!!!

Thank you again for all your help. You've been amazing!
 

Jake

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Yes, 27 years old is very good, Amana made them very strong back then.:)

Jake
 
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