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FIXED RBD275PDQ6 Whirlpool Double Oven Display Blank Nothing Works

Dan O.

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I do not think the type of tape is overly important. There should not be any high temperatures in that area. I'd likely use regular electrical tape, either plastic or cloth. If it's just to bundle wire, maybe a nylon tie? There shouldn't be a need for large amounts.

As long as it is allowed to dry thoroughly before use, I doubt contact cleaner would hurt. Try to keep it to the minimum though and not saturate any components.

JMO

Dan O.
 

paulhl

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On looking closer at this picture again, the wire terminal pointed to in blue is a male terminal. I missed when you mentioned that earlier.

View attachment 63897

In that case the fuse could very well attached between those two terminals as the fuse has 2 female terminals that would mate with the female ones.

I however can't fathom how there was never anything there previously.

Dan O.
Isn't that a fuse just to the left of the circle?
 

Dan O.

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paulhl said:
Isn't that a fuse just to the left of the circle?

It does look like one but it's part of the board and not a separate component as shown in the wiring diagram. That one isn't field replaceable so I doubt it's designed to be replaced.


Dan O.
 

Fox

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Good afternoon,
I got the repaired panel back today. I can tell some parts were changed; it appears to be stuff having to do with the P5 and P6 connectors (picture attached).

I still need to repair the P5 connector that was burnt. I am having a difficult time trying to find the white plastic connector the cables go into. Do I need to use that or is it okay to use connectors like these Tyco insulated connectors (see picture). I think I would prefer to use the white plastic connector if I can find one. I found the terminals that go inside the white connector.

Thanks,
Harry
 

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Dan O.

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I don't know where you'd get another insulator like that. They often only come already installed in the whole wiring harness.

Individual wire terminals should be fine as long as they're insulated from each other so they don't short. You will however have to make sure the one terminal is an appropriate size. It looks like 2 wires are connected to one terminal and one of those wires is a fairly heavy duty 12 or 14 gauge wire.

Dan O.
 

Fox

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I was planning on using a #12 on the part that is two wires and will have to wait and see if the other single gray wire is #14 or #12. The insulation on the gray wires seems a lot thicker than I am use to seeing on #14 but the copper part seems smaller than #12. Haven't had any luck finding the size marking on the wire. The black wire itself looks to be #14.

Thanks,
Harry
 

Dan O.

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As long as you can find a terminal able to accommodate both wires it should be OK.
 

Fox

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As long as you can find a terminal able to accommodate both wires it should be OK.
I have tested (continuity/resistance) for all the bake/broil elements, thermal fuses, temperature sensors, and blowers. My oven does not have the convection fan. The attached picture shows the results compared to what the spec sheet shows. I used two different digital multi-meters (Extech DM110 and Klein MM400) just to compare results since I was not able to change the batteries in my DM110. Wanted to verify the readings it had so I bought the Klein. Readings were the same.

I know that parts were replaced on the control board for P5 and P6 which are the heating elements; I have sent a note to control panel repair team to see if anything else was replaced. P5 and P6 were obvious to me. I am curious to see if anything was changed on the P4 part; the blowers are on that.

Based on the test results it appears that at the very least change the broiling elements and the blowers. I do plan to replace all the thermal fuses just because the oven is 20+ years old and I just sunk $250 getting the board rebuilt. Temp sensors and bake elements are in spec; might still change the bake elements since they are 20+ years old as well.

Thoughts or advice? Thanks,
Harry
 

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Fox

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In checking out wires today I ran across the two wires that control the blowers on both ovens. They left the control board from separate terminal pins but were joined together about a foot away with something wrapped in tape and then go on from there separated again. Seemed kind of odd; is this normal? The wires leave the board as P4-3 and P4-6.
 

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Dan O.

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Fox said:
Seemed kind of odd; is this normal?

I have no idea what that is or why it's there. Sorry.



Dan O.
 

Fox

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Dan O.

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I have no idea what wattage that element is so I couldn't say what its resistance should be. Look on the element to see what wattage and voltage is listed and If you post it I can calculate its resistance.


Dan O.
 

Fox

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Looks like it might be 3000 watts; my eyes ain't real good with such tiny print especially print that is stamped into the metal, ha!
Harry
 

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Dan O.

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An element rated 3000 watts at 240 volts should be 19.2 ohms.


Dan O.
 

Fox

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Ok, so my old one checks out as 18.8 on upper and 19.1 on lower. Is that close enough? Both much closer than the new one at 18.

The specs sheet says testing can be done from P6-4 to red wire at terminal block (45 to 55 ohms). Does the 45 to 55 refer to a different kind of test or would the answer come out the same as the way I did it holding the multi-meter leads on the two ends of the element?

I did the baking element the same way as the broil and my readings for the bake element were within what the spec sheet said. The baking element is 2000 watt/240 volt. The calculator I used said 28.8 ohms. My actual read on the upper was 28.2 and 27.6 on lower.

Harry
 

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Last edited:

Dan O.

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Fox said:
18.8 on upper and 19.1 on lower. Is that close enough?

Yes. They'd all produce close to 3000 watts of heat depending on the actual voltage applied to them. I doubt you'd notice even a 500 watt difference.

Fox said:
The specs sheet says testing can be done from...

I have no idea what those measurement are suppose to represent. You'd have to take that up with Whirlpool. Testing an element at its terminals with at least 1 wire removed is usually done. If the element isn't shorted or totally open (ie. burnt out), I suggest you not concern yourself with them.

What are you doing all this for? Does the repaired control not work?

Dan O.
 

Fox

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I am checking all the components to make sure they weren't part of the cause that killed the panel. I don't want to plug things back in and something that is bad cause the panel to blow again. The oven is 21+ years old; the only thing ever changed on this oven in the past 21 years is the panel, no components. Call me anal; but I believe in doing what I can do to find out if a component caused the panel to die.

The problem may have just been on the panel but you never know if you don't test the components and wiring.

Thanks,
Harry
 

Dan O.

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There are only 3 things that could cause the damage you pictured:

1. A loose connection between the wire and the wire terminal caused heat to be generated which in turn was transferred to whatever it was in contact with. (That is why a proper terminal installation onto good section of wire is so important!)

2. There was a loose connection between the wire terminal and the PCB terminal that generated heat which in turn was transferred to whatever it was connected to.

3. There was a bad connection in whatever component was on the PCB closest the damage, that generated heat which was then transferred to nearby connected components and surfaces.


There is no component in the range that could have caused the damage illustrated in your photos. The cause was a poor connection.

Dan O.
 

Fox

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Good evening Dan,

I found what might be a service manual for my oven online today. I have taken pages from the document and created a PDF to share on here as support (if needed) for the questions below. I feel pretty confident that the 4452022A schematic you shared with me is the correct one; that number shows up in this PDF and includes my model number. I also found confirmation in the PDF document that the control panel thermal fuse goes between those male spades at P7-1 (picture attached) that we discussed in previous posts.

Question 1: In the attached Relay Logic picture, the blower has an "X" in each box except for when oven is OFF (assuming I am reading the chart correctly). The legend for the charts indicate that "X" is on. I interpret this to mean that whenever the oven is "ON" that the blowers run; am I interpreting this correctly?

Question 2: If for some reason the blowers failed to run or did not run at correct speed, what would happen on the control board, if anything?

Question 3: Is it possible for the relays to fail due to overheating if blowers did not run or were not running at correct speed? (Black boxes on control board that were replaced at P5 terminal - Panel Repair picture).

Thanks,
Harry
 

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Dan O.

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I interpret this to mean that whenever the oven is "ON" that the blowers run

If one of those charts is indeed for your model, yes the fan looks to run during any heating function.

If for some reason the blowers failed to run or did not run at correct speed, what would happen on the control board,

No. I described the only things that could cause such damage.

Here is what I think likely occurred: There was one of those problems to begin with which caused the initial control to fail. The person that repair it the first time just replaced the part but didn't bother to find and correct the cause. The replacement control eventually suffered the same fate. This time they erroneously blamed using the self clean as the cause.

Is it possible for the relays to fail due to overheating if blowers did not run or were not running at correct speed?

I do not know the temperature failure point of those relays (check with the relay manufacturer) but almost surly the thermal fuse would open well before those relays got hot enough to fail.


JMO
 
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