Refrigerator (Model LSC27910**) - Lights Out!

[KK8]

Model Number

LSC27910**

Brand

LG

Age

6-10 years

My wife pressed a button on the outside panel to change from ice to water and the lights on the panel all went out, as well as inside the fridge and freezer. It also stopped cooling and has been dead in the water, with no signs of life. Very odd, seems like an electrical problem, but don't know.

Checked circuit breaker and even the outlet, both are fine. Unplugged and replugged and still nothing. Thoughts?

 

[rickgburton]

First, check the wires where they go into the lower freezer door hinge. We're seeing this problem more and more.

If the problem is not the wires in the hinge, check for 120 VAC where the power cord connects to the control board. If you have 120 VAC at the control board the board is bad.

Unfortunately it's been discontinued and is no longer available:

LG 6871JB1410M Pcb Assembly,main - AppliancePartsPros.com

PCB ASSEMBLY,MAIN 6871JB1410M / AP5590913 made by LG

click.linksynergy.com

 

[KK8]

Hi, thanks for your suggestions. I checked the cord and there is power to the circuit board. I tried the reset button on the board, but still nothing.

My power cord goes to the top of the fridge, where there is a removable plate and under that the circuit board. Nothing felt warm even though power is getting to the board.

 

[rickgburton]

Did you check the wires at the hinge? The control board controls all the components in the machine. If the control board is getting 120 VAC supply voltage and nothing is working, bad control board.

 

[KK8]

Yes, it looks okay (see pic). Also, the outlet wire goes to the top of the unit and the circuit board it there too (see pics). Is there anything else to check?

Remember, all this started when my wife pressed a button on the outside freezer door panel. Is there something behind the panel I should check?

Thanks for all your help.

 

[rickgburton]

OK, set your meter to measure VAC and measure the voltage across CON1-5 to CON1-9. This is output voltage to the compressor. Measure across CON1-5 to CON1-7. Output voltage to the condensor fan motor. Measure across CON1-3 to CON1-9. This is output voltage for the fresh food section light bulb. Meter should indicate 0V. Open the FF door. Meter should indicate 120 VAC.

Go in through the back of the connector and make sure the meter lead touches the metal wire ends. If your meter leads are too big, use this trick:

 

[KK8]

Hi Rick, I don't have a voltage meter, I'll see if I can get one to do these tests. I really appreciate the expertise and help.

 

[rickgburton]

I don't have a voltage meter,

How did you determine the board was getting 120 VAC?

 

[KK8]

How did you determine the board was getting 120 VAC?

Just an outlet tester.

 

[rickgburton]

You can use that for the other measurements. You're just looking for 120 VAC.

 

[KK8]

I tried all 3 combinations (CON1: 5 to 9, 5 to 7 and 3 to 9) and nothing lit up the tester (no lights). Then with the 3 to 9 pins plugged into the tester, I opened both the front doors and still nothing.

I did test the load across the fuse below CON1 and it lit up the tester, so there is juice up to there.

 

[rickgburton]

OK, that confirms the board is getting input voltage but there's no output voltage. There's nothing else to check.

 

[KK8]

So, does this mean the board is bad? Is it worth trying to find a replacement or a used board?

 

[rickgburton]

Is it worth trying to find a replacement or a used board?

The board is bad. When your wife pressed the button on the dispenser the DC input voltage did something to the board. Probably the MICOMM on the board. The board has been discontinued by the manufacturer and is no longer available. Used parts have their place in appliance repair but boards shouldn't be one of them. You usually end up buying someone else's problem and there's no way to check them other than installing it and see if it works.

Here's the deal with LG appliances. LG refrigerators are not that good to begin with. They've had lots of problems. Lately it's their new linear compressor that's crapping out after a couple years. There are a few places that rebuild the boards. The average price for the board new or rebuilt is about $250. The average life of a refrigerator today is about 10 years.

If you decide to replace the machine there are a lot of big sales going on right now. As far as brands, stay away from LG and Samsung and stick with a brand you're familiar with. Before you buy a new one make sure you do your homework. If you rely on the customer ratings before you make a purchase use this: www.fakespot.com

 

[KK8]

Rick, Thanks for all your help and advise, really appreciate it. It is obvious you know what you are doing! Thanks again.

 

[KK8]

Oh, one more question. If I wanted to find a replacement board or have it repaired and keep the unit in the garage or basement, is there a good place for this? And how do I find the board number, I say a few numbers on it.

 

[rickgburton]

The correct part number for the board is 6871JB1410M

These places will rebuild it:

Appliance Repair, Remanufacture, Core Collection | CoreCentric Solutions

Custom remanufacturing solutions for extended-warranty providers and original equipment manufacturers, service to parts wholesalers, service technicians and do-it-yourself consumers.

www.corecentricsolutions.com

http://www.fixyourboard.com/

 

[KK8]

Thanks, what do you think, worth fixing up as a backup refrigerator?

 

[rickgburton]

Hard to say. Maybe.

 

[KK8]

Rick, Thank you again, you were great and I appreciate your expertise and help on this problem. Happy Holidays!