FIXED RF261BEAESP Refrigrator stopped working and started again and fine for 2 days, now down again!!

David_2000

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Joined
May 13, 2019
Messages
16
Location
Waco, TX
Model Number
RF261BEAESP
Brand
Samsung
Age
6-10 years
I thought I posted this but don't see it online.

Samsung Refrigerator died about a week ago, temp lights come on but no power to compressor. I cleaned the dirty Evaporator coils, tried changing overload relay but did not help. The repair guy (don't think he had experience with Samsung) checks it out and tells me the Main PCB board is bust, ask him to check the compressor he check it and tell me that is bust as well.

I had given-up and ready to get a new one, but after a day I plug it in and lo and behold it comes on!!! And runs fine (perfect cooling etc.) for 2 days and then same issue no power to compressor. PLEASE HELP!!

Both times the GFCI tripped, I reset so this was not the issue.

I notice when I plug it in there are some noises close/in the Evaporator area (maybe the fan), then the RED LED on Inverter PCB board shuts off and I see couple of blinks on green LED (maybe a relay) on Main PCB and nothing else happens. The last time it started working I noticed that the fan kicked in and RED LED stayed on and compressor kicked in. This has me baffled!!!:confused::disgust:

Appreciate any help from the Refrigerator gurus!!
 

Jake

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Last edited:

David_2000

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Location
Waco, TX
Thanks Jake!!

The service manual file from the link has only the 2 cover pages. Much appreciate it, if you could send me link to the full version.

David

PS: Any Samsung experts out there ... hope to hear from you.
 

Jake

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I fixed the service manual link for you.:)

Jake
 

David_2000

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This morning I plug it and fan kicked-in and it starts working again!!

From a layman's view it appears that if the fan kicks-in then the PCB signals the Inverter PCB to allow power to be supplied to compressor (just my intuition). The fan and something else close/in Evaporator area is a bit nosier than usual (not too loud).

I plan to change the condenser fan motor, hopefully that helps. Are other fans or relays etc. close to Evaporator area?

Would highly appreciate any feedback from the experts.
 

rickgburton

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OK First thing you do is take it off the GFI circuit. All manufactures recommend not using a GFI circuit. When the compressor has the correct voltage it runs and cools so there's no problem with the compressor. You said when the compressor stops the lights are on and the display works so the power board is supplying power to the main board and the main board supplies the run signal and main voltage to the compressor. With linear or inverter compressors the condensor fan motor gets its supply voltage from the main board independent of the compressor. After the GFI trips and you reset it, the compressor won't start right away because LG uses a current sense circuit. Take it off the GFI circuit and try it.
 

David_2000

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Waco, TX
Thanks Rick!! Will try it off the GFI and get back.

Update from earlier - the last time it ran for 3 days before it stopped. In the meantime I had got a new PCB Inverter Board thinking that could be the issue, and tried it ... actually made the problem worse it appears. It appears to be cooling beyond the set temp which I assume draws more power and trips the GFI.

I put the old PCB Inverter Board the temp issue appears to be resolved, but doesn't run more an hour before tripping the GFI, unlike earlier where it ran for a couple of days.

I'll take it off the GFI and update.

Thanks again!!
 

rickgburton

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It appears to be cooling beyond the set temp which I assume draws more power and trips the GFI.
No, it doesn't work that way.

A GFCI uses a current transformer to detect the difference between the current supplied to the load and the neutral current returning from the load.

If there is a current difference, it becomes the inputs to comparator within the GFCI.The comparator changes states when the difference is around 6 mA (6/1000 of one Ampere). When the comparator changes states, it disconnects the power from the output of the GFCI. Ground faults occur when current can find a path to ground. The usual ground-fault suspects include worn wire insulation, conductive dusts, water, or other “soft grounds.” Another name for a ground fault is current leakage.

Although wiring insulation is designed to keep electricity in the wire/conductor, all insulators have some conductivity. Even air is not a perfect insulator. Insulation conducts current through both electrically resistive and capacitive paths. If the wire insulation is old or damaged, its resistance is lower and current leakage could become substantial.

The wire insulation protecting longer wires/conductors has higher capacitance, which can cause even more current leakage. On GFCI-protected circuits, current leakage causes ghost tripping. When troubleshooting “ghost” trips, sometimes looking for the current leaking culprit can be almost impossible without specialized test equipment.
 

David_2000

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Waco, TX
When the comparator changes states, it disconnects the power from the output of the GFCI. Ground faults occur when current can find a path to ground. The usual ground-fault suspects include worn wire insulation, conductive dusts, water, or other “soft grounds.” Another name for a ground fault is current leakage. On GFCI-protected circuits, current leakage causes ghost tripping.
That makes sense. Guess it could be a potential current leakage issue? One of the other techs I was able to talk to locally mentioned that he's seen this (current leakage - bad harness etc.) on few other Samsung refrigerators.

I have it connected to regular 3-pin plugpoint (no GFCI). Its been running normally for last 7 hrs (keeping my fingers crossed).

Will keep you posted! Thanks!!
 

David_2000

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Waco, TX
Its been 24 hrs ... and its still running!(yay)
Will keep you posted if things change.

Thanks much Rick!!!
 
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