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Rheem Criterion, Model # RGDJ-12EARJR - Furnace ignitor not getting hot

MandrewAhieu

Premium Member
Joined
Jun 7, 2019
Messages
10
Location
Chicago
Model Number
RGDJ-12EARJR
Brand
-brand-
Age
6-10 years
Hi there,

It's that time of year in Chicago to fire up the furnace and lo and behold, mine is not blowing hot air. It turns on correctly from the thermostat, the draft motor fan starts spinning, the gas kicks on for a few seconds, it pumps cold air into the house for a minute or two, and it kicks off. What is missing is that the ignitor is not getting hot or glowing.

I've done some investigation on the ignitor. I checked it's resistance and it comes in at around 83 ohms. Between the ignitor and the control board there are two wires delivering power. I checked the voltage on those wires coming out from the board and I get a reading of zero volts throughout the whole cycle. So I take this to mean that the ignitor is ok, but it is not getting power. Does this mean I have to replace my control board? Seems like the only other thing could be the wires from the board to the ignitor but from visually inspecting them they seem fine.

Here are the details on the furnace:
- Rheem Criterion, Model # RGDJ-12EARJR
- Control Board: 62-24268-01

Thanks for any and all help!

Andrew
 

JayVallz1

Premium Member
Joined
Sep 23, 2020
Messages
3
Location
Atlanta, GA
Looks like you read the manual and figured it out.

If there is no voltage out the board to the HSI then the IFC/Control Board is indeed bad.

Here is a snip of the manual for your unit:

1600890701589.png
 

MandrewAhieu

Premium Member
Joined
Jun 7, 2019
Messages
10
Location
Chicago
Thanks! I've never seen this flow chart - this is good info! A new board arrived in the mail, so I will replace and see. If not, the other option on this flow chart seems to be an Air Proving switch. Any idea what that is?
 

JayVallz1

Premium Member
Joined
Sep 23, 2020
Messages
3
Location
Atlanta, GA
Like you mentioned previously, the furnace IFC would turn on the inducer motor first, the there is a sensor that measure air pressure. Once the air pressure reaches a certain level the switch would close which then allows the next sequence event to take place. Normally the gas valve and indoor blower should not run if the air proving switch does not close.

But I have seen weirder things happen. So its not a bad idea to check whether or not the air proving switch is good.

The way I check for switches is to confirm voltage across the switch contacts. When the switch is open you will get a voltage reading displayed on your meter. Once the switch closes your voltage would go to 0.

If you choose to go that route, I hope this advise helps.
 
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